Is it better to:
1)Manually shift
2)Leave it in overdrive
3)Put it in 2nd and do the rest manually.

I tried the latter at the track with good results. It seems to pull harder in OD at times during day to day driving, that is why I'm asking about #2. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

What converter would be a good choice for a daily driver that goes to the track occasionally?

Any reccomendations on tire pressure with stock rims (ZR1 style) and tires?
<img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

 

Yep, leave it in od and let it shift itself.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by chikn:
<strong> Leave it in overdrive. Just stall the stock verter up enough to get rid of any drivetrain slack. Ill usually let street tires down to 20-24 pounds. Ive pulled a 1.91 like that with car stock. A 2800 or 3200 is a good street TC. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I totally agree. Stall against the stock convertor. I can usually stall it up to 1400 before the tires spin. My air pressure is usually between 20-22 depending on the temp. I have cut a 1.898 60 ft. by doing this on street tires.

 

I leave mine in 3rd and let it do the shifting and found it's much more consistent this way. I run about 24-26 psi in my goodyears if i run street tires, got a 2.00 60 foot on stock drivetrain and 3.23 gears.

Derek

 

All the above happy racing.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will give it a try and see if I can get some better times. The best I got was 14:40 at 102mph. The track is also at 5500 ft, so corrected it should be around a 13:80. not too bad for an almost stock 98 SS A4 conv (k&n, and grantelli MAF). Time for an exhaust,I already got a Texas MS lid. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

 

OD or bump it back one gear selection. I leave mine in 3rd(next one back from D)

3rd is good up till 122-124mph or so <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

dont shift manually.. its no way to beat the cars PCM. I dont get why some even try that <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

I agree, but I have to say this.......

When my car was stock, I always got better E.T.'s shifting it manually. I swear. My best e.t. stock was a 13.6 shifting it manually, and that same night, I ran a 13.8 leaving it in drive. There may have been a difference in 60ft or something. I don't remember, 'cause it was a while ago.

Now, I leave it in drive at the track. Only because I'm affraid of bouncing the limiter while spraying. When it's in drive, you don't have to worry about that. The only problem is that sometimes, it breaks loose too much, and when I let off the gas to stop the wheelspin, the car shifts to second. You don't have to worry about that shifting manually.

It all comes down to where you are, and conditions. Obviously, you are going to shift manually racing from a roll on the street. Just so you can be in the right gear on the punch instaed of waiting for the computer to shift while the other guy has already put a car on you.

<small>[ April 19, 2003, 12:31 AM: Message edited by: NickMapleT/A ]</small>

 

If you bracket race you want 3 not OD. If you have to momentarily lift nearing the traps you can upshift to 4 in OD. Not so in 3.