2 step questions
2 step questions I found this 2step.
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/store.html
Has anyone ever bought one from there and if so how long did it take to recieve after payment.
anyone got any more info than on that site.
any pics of 2step and/or intallation pics.
how does it connet to coils any cutting?
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/store.html
Has anyone ever bought one from there and if so how long did it take to recieve after payment.
anyone got any more info than on that site.
any pics of 2step and/or intallation pics.
how does it connet to coils any cutting?
Anyone that runs a 2 step on an LS1 has Harlan's 2-step. It's the only one made for our cars that I know of. Harlan does this as a side-line and at time takes him a while to get you the order, but well worth the wait. No cutting of any wires. Plug and play. It has two "interceptor" connectors. It does has a caution of not being cat friendly. You can do a search on "2-step" and get some insight into the wiring (although the "box" comes with instructions).
David
David
I'm sitting here looking at a handful that are ready to ship out 
This time of year is good, as everyone is rebuilding/resting and I can actually build stock.
You can hit me up w/ a PM or email if you have any specific questions.
This time of year is good, as everyone is rebuilding/resting and I can actually build stock.
You can hit me up w/ a PM or email if you have any specific questions.
i have one and its pretty nifty. its just like a stutter box for older cars. as for how it works, ???????????? good question. just plug the connectors in and hook up 3 grounds and get it on. thats it. if you have a 98 it takes some fabrication, which involves rigging up a new switch but its cake. i just unhooked my CC from the clutch and use that switch for the 2step. just have to hit the break to turn off the CC
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KAOS,
How do you have your 2 step wired?
Is it armed every time the clutch is depressed?
Do you have another switch?
What RPM are launching with the turbo?
Sounds like a good idea.
How do you have your 2 step wired?
Is it armed every time the clutch is depressed?
Do you have another switch?
What RPM are launching with the turbo?
Sounds like a good idea.
Here is how the 2-Step is wired with nitrous on my car (M6 99-2002 car)....
If you were just going to wire the 2-Step by itself for an M6 car you would not use the yellow wire (just coil it up and leave it alone) and forget all about the relays. For a 98 M6 car you would have to fabricate your own clutch switch for the grey wire.
On an automatic car you would permanently ground the gray wire, and run the run the white wire to your transbreak.
SlickVert, all you do is depress the clutch, and hit the momentary switch. The 2-Step is armed untill the clutch pedal is fully releases (90% released). I used the NX Switch panel for the mementary switch. The Left switch is Nitrous Armed and Bottle heater like normal, the middle switch is purge, and the switch on the right intended for the remote bottle opener I used for the momentary switch. After you finish your burn out, depress the clutch, click the mementary switch and then creap up to the line. The clutch needs to come up pretty high to disarm the 2-step so it leaves you enough movement to creap to the line and stage.
If you were just going to wire the 2-Step by itself for an M6 car you would not use the yellow wire (just coil it up and leave it alone) and forget all about the relays. For a 98 M6 car you would have to fabricate your own clutch switch for the grey wire.
On an automatic car you would permanently ground the gray wire, and run the run the white wire to your transbreak.
SlickVert, all you do is depress the clutch, and hit the momentary switch. The 2-Step is armed untill the clutch pedal is fully releases (90% released). I used the NX Switch panel for the mementary switch. The Left switch is Nitrous Armed and Bottle heater like normal, the middle switch is purge, and the switch on the right intended for the remote bottle opener I used for the momentary switch. After you finish your burn out, depress the clutch, click the mementary switch and then creap up to the line. The clutch needs to come up pretty high to disarm the 2-step so it leaves you enough movement to creap to the line and stage.
Last edited by bad2000ss; Jan 25, 2005 at 10:42 AM.
Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
Great device. I just have to figure out where (rpm) to launch at with Nittos and M6. I am wheelhopping at 2600-2900 rpm... (other thread)
If you're going to run on the Nittos, why not let the 2-step hold you at 2900 but on 50% throttle. This way you can feather the gas a bit off the line rather than hitting it with everything you got.
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 1
From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by bad2000ss
Why not leave at part throttle? Essentially you're just starting your launch at 2900rpm but then immediately going to wide open throttle and over powering your tires. The same thing would happen if you didn't have a 2-Step. If you just manually held the rpm at 2900, then dumped the clutch and jammed your foot to the floor.
If you're going to run on the Nittos, why not let the 2-step hold you at 2900 but on 50% throttle. This way you can feather the gas a bit off the line rather than hitting it with everything you got.
If you're going to run on the Nittos, why not let the 2-step hold you at 2900 but on 50% throttle. This way you can feather the gas a bit off the line rather than hitting it with everything you got.
UPDATE: Well, I just bought MT Street Radials...so.....maybe now it will be easier with a Two Step! Thanks for your input.
Bad2000ss
When you push the momentary switch do you have to hold it until you launch or just push it once to arm it and the clutch disengage will disarm it?
Great info,
Thanks
When you push the momentary switch do you have to hold it until you launch or just push it once to arm it and the clutch disengage will disarm it?
Great info,
Thanks
Originally Posted by SlickVert
Bad2000ss
When you push the momentary switch do you have to hold it until you launch or just push it once to arm it and the clutch disengage will disarm it?
Great info,
Thanks
When you push the momentary switch do you have to hold it until you launch or just push it once to arm it and the clutch disengage will disarm it?
Great info,
Thanks
CAT3. I use the 2-step and transbrake to cut the nitrous until the transbrake is released. The general wire diagram is same as mine, and than the yellow wire (I believe) is wired to the transbrake. I have a 4200 stall. I set my 2-step at 3900. When I press in the transbrake it also activates the 2-step. Slam the gas to the floor. On last yellow, release the transbrakes that deactivates the 2-step that activates the nitrous. 200 shot right out of the hole. Gives a nice ride. Best times are in my signature using this method.
David
David
9 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
This is what the harlen 2 step sounds like and will do to you if you use to much nitrous out of the hole. LOL
www.lifeinwidescreen.com/nbm.avi
www.lifeinwidescreen.com/nbm.avi
Originally Posted by SlickVert
KAOS,
How do you have your 2 step wired?
Is it armed every time the clutch is depressed?
Do you have another switch?
What RPM are launching with the turbo?
Sounds like a good idea.
How do you have your 2 step wired?
Is it armed every time the clutch is depressed?
Do you have another switch?
What RPM are launching with the turbo?
Sounds like a good idea.
So, I could use it without a transbrake as well correct.
I am using Cmotorsport Level 2 4L60E (if this one blows Rossler here I come), with a Line Lok and Nitrous. I would like to get a H2S, and wire it, so I can arm the Nitrous switch, burn out and then roll to the beams, hit one switch and : Line lok, check; Nitrous Armed, check; 2 Step, check! Foot on floor, hold it mid 2/3 yellow and release switch, unlocking brakes, spraying nitrous and full rpm rollout. Since I am not using a transbrake, I would set the rpm lower as to not creep thru the beams. I hate wiring!
Charlie
I am using Cmotorsport Level 2 4L60E (if this one blows Rossler here I come), with a Line Lok and Nitrous. I would like to get a H2S, and wire it, so I can arm the Nitrous switch, burn out and then roll to the beams, hit one switch and : Line lok, check; Nitrous Armed, check; 2 Step, check! Foot on floor, hold it mid 2/3 yellow and release switch, unlocking brakes, spraying nitrous and full rpm rollout. Since I am not using a transbrake, I would set the rpm lower as to not creep thru the beams. I hate wiring!
Charlie
Originally Posted by CAT3
So, I could use it without a transbrake as well correct.
I am using Cmotorsport Level 2 4L60E (if this one blows Rossler here I come), with a Line Lok and Nitrous. I would like to get a H2S, and wire it, so I can arm the Nitrous switch, burn out and then roll to the beams, hit one switch and : Line lok, check; Nitrous Armed, check; 2 Step, check! Foot on floor, hold it mid 2/3 yellow and release switch, unlocking brakes, spraying nitrous and full rpm rollout. Since I am not using a transbrake, I would set the rpm lower as to not creep thru the beams. I hate wiring!
Charlie
I am using Cmotorsport Level 2 4L60E (if this one blows Rossler here I come), with a Line Lok and Nitrous. I would like to get a H2S, and wire it, so I can arm the Nitrous switch, burn out and then roll to the beams, hit one switch and : Line lok, check; Nitrous Armed, check; 2 Step, check! Foot on floor, hold it mid 2/3 yellow and release switch, unlocking brakes, spraying nitrous and full rpm rollout. Since I am not using a transbrake, I would set the rpm lower as to not creep thru the beams. I hate wiring!
Charlie