Am I correct?? Street/Strip
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From: I play with Sand!!
Am I correct?? Street/Strip I posted the same thing in Handeling/braking section also.
My car is a daily driver/only car. ('99 Z28) I get to the 1/4 mile track sometimes as much as 3-4 times a month. I have to drive my car everyday so I can only compromise so much. I run E.T. Street's (26X10.5-16LT)
From searching it seems that I should keep my stock height (lowering hurts weight transfer). I should keep the sway bars stock. I'm going to add SFC, Sphon T/A, (have LCA's) and new panhard rod.
Now QA1's rear shocks should do well for the street/strip. Can I use the front strut/shocks witha stock spring?
Also will a STB affect anything?
Are there any lowering springs that would lower it a little (3/4"-1") but not affect the launch much?
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My car is a daily driver/only car. ('99 Z28) I get to the 1/4 mile track sometimes as much as 3-4 times a month. I have to drive my car everyday so I can only compromise so much. I run E.T. Street's (26X10.5-16LT)
From searching it seems that I should keep my stock height (lowering hurts weight transfer). I should keep the sway bars stock. I'm going to add SFC, Sphon T/A, (have LCA's) and new panhard rod.
Now QA1's rear shocks should do well for the street/strip. Can I use the front strut/shocks witha stock spring?
Also will a STB affect anything?
Are there any lowering springs that would lower it a little (3/4"-1") but not affect the launch much?
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Last edited by Richiec77; Feb 6, 2005 at 12:04 PM.
stock height is best unless you have a mini-tubbed car with high power (700+), because then the weight transfer doesn't do much anyways if you have a huge rear tire on the car already.
QA1 rear shocks won't help much at all. A simple airbag in the pass side rear spring will help more than those shocks.
QA1 front coil-overs will help however. You can run the stock front coil spring if you have a set of modified stock spring perches. Thunder Racing sells modified perches for this application.
Honestly, tire selection/size is the most critical choice you will make if you are concerned about traction. Several guys run 100% stock suspension with a good drag slick and cut some great times. I didn't need a torque arm on my last car until I was running 11.0s. Then the stock one bent
QA1 rear shocks won't help much at all. A simple airbag in the pass side rear spring will help more than those shocks.
QA1 front coil-overs will help however. You can run the stock front coil spring if you have a set of modified stock spring perches. Thunder Racing sells modified perches for this application.
Honestly, tire selection/size is the most critical choice you will make if you are concerned about traction. Several guys run 100% stock suspension with a good drag slick and cut some great times. I didn't need a torque arm on my last car until I was running 11.0s. Then the stock one bent
lose the front sway bar, you'll hardly notice anything daily driving and it'll help at the strip nicely.
panhard rod really is not a dragstrip mod, only reason i have one on my car is i needed an adjustable to center my 9" when it went in.
strut tower brace is also not really a drag strip mod, tie the car up nice with SFC's and a good tq arm and save yourself the weight/money on the STB.
don't lower the car. if you want it lower AND make and improvement at the strip, run a front HAL stock/spring setup and pick yoru ride height.
panhard rod really is not a dragstrip mod, only reason i have one on my car is i needed an adjustable to center my 9" when it went in.
strut tower brace is also not really a drag strip mod, tie the car up nice with SFC's and a good tq arm and save yourself the weight/money on the STB.
don't lower the car. if you want it lower AND make and improvement at the strip, run a front HAL stock/spring setup and pick yoru ride height.
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From: I play with Sand!!
I editted my 1st Post. I forgot to add that I run E.T. Street's (26X10.5-16LT).
Ok. I thought that the softer bound of the rear shock would help the car squat and there for improve traction. After reading MADMAN's thread I can sort of see how the reverse is true to a point.
I'll have to check out the front shock option.
And Air bags are pretty inexpensive.
I'll try removeing the sway bar at the track to see what happens. I heard of guy's doing this for years. Time to see what it's like.
I already bought the STB from the GP from UMI. At $60 I figured sure what the hell. I'll try runs w/STB and wo/STB to see what happens. Just wondering if someone has done this before.
I'm going to get the T/A for a couple of resons. 1. Don't want it to break/bend and then worry about replacing it. 2. Moves the transfer point from the tailshaft housing to the tunnel brace area. 3. Driveshaft safty loop is an option with it. 4. Can modify my pinion angle and the hem-joints won't bind.
Nine ball. Love the Cheese head man. Saw the pic in GM High Tech Performance.
Ok. I thought that the softer bound of the rear shock would help the car squat and there for improve traction. After reading MADMAN's thread I can sort of see how the reverse is true to a point.
I'll have to check out the front shock option.
And Air bags are pretty inexpensive.
I'll try removeing the sway bar at the track to see what happens. I heard of guy's doing this for years. Time to see what it's like.
I already bought the STB from the GP from UMI. At $60 I figured sure what the hell. I'll try runs w/STB and wo/STB to see what happens. Just wondering if someone has done this before.
I'm going to get the T/A for a couple of resons. 1. Don't want it to break/bend and then worry about replacing it. 2. Moves the transfer point from the tailshaft housing to the tunnel brace area. 3. Driveshaft safty loop is an option with it. 4. Can modify my pinion angle and the hem-joints won't bind.
Nine ball. Love the Cheese head man. Saw the pic in GM High Tech Performance.
