How many of you have had wheel studs break or seen then break at the track?
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How many of you have had wheel studs break or seen then break at the track?
After reading the other post, now you have me worried. I have a new setup this year (TH400 w/ brake, 408ci,) plus a little spray. I have a moser 12bolt, but my vert is heavy and I am putting down some decent power on slicks.
Should I upgrade my studs? Is this a common problem?
Should I upgrade my studs? Is this a common problem?
#2
You'll see knuckle heads run spools on the street for regular driving and all of that turning and subsequent loading and unloading of the studs will cause a failure. Go with ARP studs if you are worried in the largest diameter you can fit, and things should be ok.
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Originally Posted by ElEsWon
You'll see knuckle heads run spools on the street for regular driving and all of that turning and subsequent loading and unloading of the studs will cause a failure.
Derek
#9
Originally Posted by Villain281H
Wow, I never realized I was a knuckle head! I've yet to break a 7/16" or 1/2" stud in 5 years with a spool, go figure! I'd run 5/8" like Coach stated for additional strength and safety, but my wheels won't allow it.
Derek
Derek
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Originally Posted by ElEsWon
Call Moser or Strange and see what they tell you about using a spool on the street- it is not reccomended. When you turn, the inner wheel goes a shorter distance than the outer- however since the spool is locking them together, you have no way to differentiate the rotation. As such you get loading and unloading on the studs; if you do this enough times you will eventually break wheel studs (less likely they higher the quality of the studs as well as the larger diameter, but still is possible due to metal fatigue)
Funny thing; if you call up Mickey Thompson and ask them about their ET Drag slicks they state they are not for street use, but does that mean that people don't drive on the street with them???? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......
Derek
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Hugh,
Depends on how often you beat on it. I've seen plenty of stock 10-bolts last, but racing on them every week can claim them quicker as opposed to once a month or less. Just based on my experience with racing and what breaks.
Derek
Depends on how often you beat on it. I've seen plenty of stock 10-bolts last, but racing on them every week can claim them quicker as opposed to once a month or less. Just based on my experience with racing and what breaks.
Derek
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Originally Posted by redrumss
On the 5/8 studs. I have a Moser 9" with Draglites and I would like to convert to 5/8" studs. But this means I have to change rims and the axles correct..??? I already have hats drilled for 5/8" studs on my Aerospace drag brake setup....
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Originally Posted by redrumss
On the 5/8 studs. I have a Moser 9" with Draglites and I would like to convert to 5/8" studs. But this means I have to change rims and the axles correct..??? I already have hats drilled for 5/8" studs on my Aerospace drag brake setup....
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Yes, we have drilled-out these axles for larger studs. Coach 02 and I clearly disagree, which is OK, but doesn't really help you much in your decision making.
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I've seen a few guys blow the studs right off the car (One was on the street...he rolled the car a few times in traffic...not good). The one constant with all the cars was a spool on the street. I would think a few street miles would be ok but beyond that I would be worried. That's what makes a steet/strip car so hard to build. The question you have to ask is, "What am I going to do with the car and how many miles will I drive on the street?"
Just my .02
Just my .02
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Good point, because I don't believe that a spool is the best choice for most of these LS1 street/strip cars. We have found that an Eaton posi with 800 lbs springs is plenty good enough for 99% of LS1 cars, particularly those running 10s or slower.