Cracking 12s, then 11's -- is it this easy?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: SW Ohio
Cracking 12s, then 11's -- is it this easy? I have a 98 Z28 6-spd low-option car. I am hopeful that with a few trips to the local drag strips, the following times and trap speeds will materialize. Please comment if you agree the numbers are reasonable or comment if there is "more to it" than what I list.
Stock = 13.4 at 104 mph (2.0 sixty-foot) in decent air.
Add lid, free ram air mod, cut-out, and drag radials = 12.9 at 107 mph (1.85 sixty-foot).
Add 125 nitrous shot = 11.8 at 118 mph (1.75 sixty-foot).
So for about $1000 ($600 nitrous, $300 drag radials, $100 bolt-ons) the car will run in the 11's in the 1/4 mile?
Thanks,
Fred
Stock = 13.4 at 104 mph (2.0 sixty-foot) in decent air.
Add lid, free ram air mod, cut-out, and drag radials = 12.9 at 107 mph (1.85 sixty-foot).
Add 125 nitrous shot = 11.8 at 118 mph (1.75 sixty-foot).
So for about $1000 ($600 nitrous, $300 drag radials, $100 bolt-ons) the car will run in the 11's in the 1/4 mile?
Thanks,
Fred
I don't see a half second from a lid,cutout and tires.My car bested a 13.4@106 stock and it took lid.catback/4.10 gears/kooks/ORY to make high 12's.12.9 to 11.8 with just a 125 shot seems unlikely also,but I know jack about NOS.
I ran 11.8 with C1 cam, headers, lid and free mods on et streets. I also ran a 12.9@ 110 without cam and only the driver seat on bfg drag radials with the aforementioned mods. I don't see an 11.8 being out of realm here however there is always a chance of the stock clutch failing and the rear end taking a dump on you. I can tell you that it will take alot more to run consistent times and being able to drive your car home after your visit to the track.
Gilbert
Gilbert
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 547
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by glennster
I don't see a half second from a lid,cutout and tires.My car bested a 13.4@106 stock and it took lid.catback/4.10 gears/kooks/ORY to make high 12's.12.9 to 11.8 with just a 125 shot seems unlikely also,but I know jack about NOS.
Look at his 60ft though, a 2.0 to a 1.85 thats a pretty big difference then you add the lid and cut out and I can see how his statement is true.
Dan
Originally Posted by ONGRNGO
Look at his 60ft though, a 2.0 to a 1.85 thats a pretty big difference then you add the lid and cut out and I can see how his statement is true.
Dan
Dan
He may get there,I'm not saying he won't,but I've seen guys over the years think its a cakewalk to add a few goodies and pop a great number.More often then not that ain't the case.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: SW Ohio
Glennster,
I know where you are coming from, that is why I asked the question. I have had a couple GN's and most people were always saying you can run 12's super easy with them. I had to work at it since I was not using open exhaust, 116 race gas, or slicks. Trying to go 12's on radial tires is hard for sure. With a manual trans it ought to be even more fun. That is why the tires will be an important ingredient for running decent numbers.
With a 6-spd LS1 I expect the hardest part to be getting a decent 60-foot. I may just skip over the Nitto DRs and go with the M/T DRs to make sure traction is not an issue. If the differential doesn't break and the clutch doesn't fry, then some NA 1.8's should be possible. If you have experience with Nitto drag radials, please post it in my other thread that is trying to compile Nitto 60-foot and set up information.
I am not looking for consistency, just a few "glory" runs. 60F temps, no wind or tailwind, sticky track, good shifts, etc. and post the results. My biggest concern is I have not baselined the car yet, so it might trap less than 104 mph in stock condition. That would throw a wrench in my plans...
I know where you are coming from, that is why I asked the question. I have had a couple GN's and most people were always saying you can run 12's super easy with them. I had to work at it since I was not using open exhaust, 116 race gas, or slicks. Trying to go 12's on radial tires is hard for sure. With a manual trans it ought to be even more fun. That is why the tires will be an important ingredient for running decent numbers.
With a 6-spd LS1 I expect the hardest part to be getting a decent 60-foot. I may just skip over the Nitto DRs and go with the M/T DRs to make sure traction is not an issue. If the differential doesn't break and the clutch doesn't fry, then some NA 1.8's should be possible. If you have experience with Nitto drag radials, please post it in my other thread that is trying to compile Nitto 60-foot and set up information.
I am not looking for consistency, just a few "glory" runs. 60F temps, no wind or tailwind, sticky track, good shifts, etc. and post the results. My biggest concern is I have not baselined the car yet, so it might trap less than 104 mph in stock condition. That would throw a wrench in my plans...
Have you never ran your car? Get the nittos with the 10 bolt,M/Ts with a 12 bolt.What made me doubt was the 2.0 60',if you got that and only ran 13.40 you would need way more mods to get a 12 like I stated.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: SW Ohio
Thanks for the replies! I hope the car does not have to be a "factory freak" to run the 13.4 at 104 mph in stock form.
The calculated numbers: at 3600 lbs (car and driver), 315 hp is needed to run 104 mph, 345 hp to run 107 mph. Course those power levels should produce 13.1 and 12.7 times respectively, if the car can take off hard enough.
Now if it will just quit snowing, I can run the car and start tweaking.
The calculated numbers: at 3600 lbs (car and driver), 315 hp is needed to run 104 mph, 345 hp to run 107 mph. Course those power levels should produce 13.1 and 12.7 times respectively, if the car can take off hard enough.
Now if it will just quit snowing, I can run the car and start tweaking.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 547
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
13.4 to a 12.9 is easily believable
2.0 to a 1.85 is worth 3 tenths in itself the other stuff can give you the .2 without a problem.
2.0 to a 1.85 is worth 3 tenths in itself the other stuff can give you the .2 without a problem.
Thats what I was trying to say, cut that 60ft down and it won't be a prob to reach 12s. And yes 1.8 60fts are not that hard with nittos, a 6spd and a 10bolt. But the M/T Drag radials will kill your 10bolt in no time, I heard the hook very well some say better then ET Streets.
Dan
the biggest thing is getting the power to the ground. also- ALOT of people could put thier car into the 11's for 1k$, BUT, how lond do you think it'll take to start spending thousands++$ on drivetrain and whatever you break? people don't take that into perspective but yeah your times seem reasonable if you drive your *** off and hook.
oh- **** calculated #'s. they don't really mean dick. dyno's are only for tuning imho, they don't give that accurate of an answer exactly what the car will run.
oh- **** calculated #'s. they don't really mean dick. dyno's are only for tuning imho, they don't give that accurate of an answer exactly what the car will run.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: SW Ohio
When making your best runs with a mostly stock LS1 and a 6-speed, do you shift at about 5900 rpm? With no mods, the car does not seem to pull very hard much past about 6000 rpm.
Also, if given a choice to run third gear up to the rev limiter at the end of the 1/4 mile or to shift into fourth gear at the 1000' mark, which did you do to get the best times and trap speed?
Thanks!
Fred
Also, if given a choice to run third gear up to the rev limiter at the end of the 1/4 mile or to shift into fourth gear at the 1000' mark, which did you do to get the best times and trap speed?
Thanks!
Fred
My tach was slow and a 6k 1-2 stock would bang the limiter.Get a shift lite,its the best cheap mod I ever bought,and shift 1-2 5700 2-3 5800 3-4 6000.Valve springs may be a factor so you could try 5500 on all shifts and see if it picks up.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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I just got Nitto Dr's on mine. I got down to a 2.0 60' without deflating them, or burning them up to the point of white smoke. I do have a m6 with boltons minus ls6 intake, and UD pulley.That got me 8.4 in the 1/8.
Your gonna need a rear and clutch if you plan on going to the track alot. I snapped a axel with just 1,000 miles on the car. And at 1,300 miles the clutch started to go.With basic bolt on's ,gears and a set of E.T.streets you should be able to get ingo the mid 12's. I ran a 12.20 @ 109 with gears and bolt on's. And that was at a slower track. I could have just took a 2hr longer ride to a different track and ran a 12.0 That was also with the stock tune,and stock water pump. So with all the best bolt on's ,tune,gears ,and E/water pump I would say you will have a 12.0-11.89 car. I also cut a 1.68 60ft with the stock suspension,just unhooked my sway bar links and ran MT E.T. streets.