How does pinion angle affect traction and launch?
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I actually just got done working on the car....
Last time at the track I had teh new torque arm.. I adjusted pinion angle by using the flat spot of the bottom of the torque arm (under the pumpkin).. I figured this was straight out with the yoke.. when in fact it seems to be -2 below the yokes axis..
So I was realy at a -4 angle or so.. *i think*
On the passanger side of the pumpkin there is a "fin" that seems to be inline with the yoke.. I used this to set the pinion to -.5 .. at least I think the fin is parallel with the pinion..
I really couln't get a reading off of the pinion itself so I cannot verify my theory.. Just from visual though the pinion does seem to be parallell with the "fin".
I am using a strange 12 bolt..
I will probably go racing again this weekend.. i really hope I hook. It's really depressing to cut 1.3's all day long and then be stuck in the mid 1.4's with traction issues..
I'll post my results when I return..
Thanks!
Last time at the track I had teh new torque arm.. I adjusted pinion angle by using the flat spot of the bottom of the torque arm (under the pumpkin).. I figured this was straight out with the yoke.. when in fact it seems to be -2 below the yokes axis..
So I was realy at a -4 angle or so.. *i think*
On the passanger side of the pumpkin there is a "fin" that seems to be inline with the yoke.. I used this to set the pinion to -.5 .. at least I think the fin is parallel with the pinion..
I really couln't get a reading off of the pinion itself so I cannot verify my theory.. Just from visual though the pinion does seem to be parallell with the "fin".
I am using a strange 12 bolt..
I will probably go racing again this weekend.. i really hope I hook. It's really depressing to cut 1.3's all day long and then be stuck in the mid 1.4's with traction issues..
I'll post my results when I return..
Thanks!
Some great info Carl, being an old 4-link/ladder bar guy I just assumed the IC would change when moving the front of a non-fixed front torque arm up or down. I'm one of those guys that just got lucky on the last 3 LS1 cars and whatever parts I put on worked, always had a little anti squat and never a problem hooking at all so I never gave it much thought until I read through this - thanks.
Just out of curiousity Magnus did the MAC torque arm that broke have a sliding front like the Jegs or was it solid mounted? That would explain a lot if the MAC was solid mounted, I had one of these here a couple years ago and I didnt use it because it was solid mounted if I remember - could be wrong though.
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Sliding front mount.
Putting the pinion angle as close to 0 as I could get it has fixed my traction issues and brought back my MPH to normal levels.. check drag racing results
Putting the pinion angle as close to 0 as I could get it has fixed my traction issues and brought back my MPH to normal levels.. check drag racing results
After reading every post and the links posted I think I understand this correctly. Please correct me if I have misunderstood. There are 3 angles:
1) Driveshaft Angle (DSA)
2) Pinion Angle (PA)
3) Driveline Angle (DLA)
*it seems like the DLA is sometimes referred to as being the PA which confuses people*
The sum of the DSA and the PA gives you the DLA. Ideally the DLA should be 0. This happens when the DSA and PA have opposite values which offset eachother. A DLA angle of 0 will cause the least amount of stress on the parts. We need to avoid extreme PAs to avoid breaking parts.
It seems like PA values of 0 and less give people the best results hooking at the track. Only trial and error will let you know what angle works best for you as every car is different.
***yeah i know this is an ancient thread but thats what happens when you read the stickies***
1) Driveshaft Angle (DSA)
2) Pinion Angle (PA)
3) Driveline Angle (DLA)
*it seems like the DLA is sometimes referred to as being the PA which confuses people*
The sum of the DSA and the PA gives you the DLA. Ideally the DLA should be 0. This happens when the DSA and PA have opposite values which offset eachother. A DLA angle of 0 will cause the least amount of stress on the parts. We need to avoid extreme PAs to avoid breaking parts.
It seems like PA values of 0 and less give people the best results hooking at the track. Only trial and error will let you know what angle works best for you as every car is different.
***yeah i know this is an ancient thread but thats what happens when you read the stickies***
Last edited by C_Rules; Jan 16, 2009 at 07:09 PM.
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If all you changed is the trans then you dont need to reset pinion angle.
Anytime you change a suspension part you have to test until you find the setting the car wants. The best thing to do is go to the track make a pass, then make ONE change. See if it helped or hindered. Then try something else. You might have to make 20 passes to find your combo.
Anytime you change a suspension part you have to test until you find the setting the car wants. The best thing to do is go to the track make a pass, then make ONE change. See if it helped or hindered. Then try something else. You might have to make 20 passes to find your combo.
Last edited by StraightTimeStirrups; Apr 15, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
