Do all you M6 guys powershift at the track?
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
no, i dont powershift cause im still on the stock m6 transmission
i actually use my clutch but i use it in a huge hurry and my clutch master is adjusted up high so i dont have to push far to disengague it.
i actually use my clutch but i use it in a huge hurry and my clutch master is adjusted up high so i dont have to push far to disengague it.
Paul
i never did it in this car cause $$$$$$$$ and the tranny would lock me out of geer at 6700 rpms but did it in all of my old cars.
but I just fixed tranny with billit keys and steel fork..
THINK IT WILL BE OK/?????????????
but I just fixed tranny with billit keys and steel fork..
THINK IT WILL BE OK/?????????????
I know that I have never left the right foot to the floor, I just blip the gas enough to match the RPM that the motor drops between shifts. When you go to shift, take foot off the gas enough as you push in the clutch so that when you shift and let the clutch back out, the motor is matched RPM wise to the tranny.. just do the entire process real fast. You can actually pratice while driving around normally, just perform your shifts real fast, and try to get off teh gas just enough so that when the cluch is back grabbing, the motor doesn't drop any RPM from engaging the clutch. Seems to work for me anyway, made quite a few passes on the stock tranny and stock hydraulics, no problems so far.. other than the factory clutch crapping out... but that's to be expected when e.t. streets are added to the picture.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I know that I have never left the right foot to the floor, I just blip the gas enough to match the RPM that the motor drops between shifts. When you go to shift, take foot off the gas enough as you push in the clutch so that when you shift and let the clutch back out, the motor is matched RPM wise to the tranny.. just do the entire process real fast. You can actually pratice while driving around normally, just perform your shifts real fast, and try to get off teh gas just enough so that when the cluch is back grabbing, the motor doesn't drop any RPM from engaging the clutch. Seems to work for me anyway, made quite a few passes on the stock tranny and stock hydraulics, no problems so far.. other than the factory clutch crapping out... but that's to be expected when e.t. streets are added to the picture.
Good idea, kinda like a happy medium, dont floor it but keep the revs up,, will take some practice though.
Originally Posted by jerflash
i find that you can power shift 1-2 ans 2-3 with out much trouble but as soon as you try 3-4 with that crap shiftfork and slider keys its over
Originally Posted by jerflash
i find that you can power shift 1-2 ans 2-3 with out much trouble but as soon as you try 3-4 with that crap shiftfork and slider keys its over
No problem's powershifting here. Gas pedal never leaves the floor, clutch get's a quick hit and the shifter gets a quick rip. Once i feel i have maxamized the potential of my stock GTO i'll try a couple passes lift shifting and see how it effects my times.
I don't even use the clutch when racing my other ride....just shift at 14,500 RPM, but that's a different machine.
I don't even use the clutch when racing my other ride....just shift at 14,500 RPM, but that's a different machine.
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
I never powershift. Its tough on the tranny. I believe 90% of all T56 fialures are shift related. You can minimize this with finding a good set of hydraulics that works well and setting it up correctly. You still have to shift within the confines of what the hyd/tranny will let you though. You should still be able to run within .2-.3 of your best possible ET by using the clutch. So for now...I use the clutch and just blip the throttle up. If I got very close to an ET I wanted...then I may consider powershifting.
Now alot of you guys said you adjust the clutch all the way to the top but wouldn't it make more sense to adjust it all the way to the bottom with hardly any clutch travel at all so you could just slam your foot to the floor and not have to worry about clutch travel at all? Kind of like a push button type setup?
no because then you would move the shifter before it was disengaged....breaking ****.......you want the very first part the clutch pedal moves to do the disengament part so you have time to do the COMPLETE shift before the pedal comes back up to the REengagment point at the top of the clutch pedal.
hmmmm but and adjustable master does not really change the engagement point per say but rather how much fluid is pushed but does have the side affect of moving the clutch pedal up or down which kinda decieves you into thinking the engagement point is different right? For example my currrent spec V has and engagement point close to the top of the pedal swing, If I adjust it all the way out the engagement point is at the top but I have more pedal to move before I hit the floor and start coming back, If I adjust it all the way to the floor the engagement point is still close to the top of the swing I just push less fluid and have less pedal to move. Wouldn't this make the shift quicker?
I here what you are saying pontiac,, Im just trying to picture both scenarios in my head.
I here what you are saying pontiac,, Im just trying to picture both scenarios in my head.
MIKE K.
if you adjust the pedal to the bottom (on an adjustable mc) yes you pedal has less travel BUT you are moving less fluid ====== you may not be disengaging all the way when you sre shifting ===== breaking **** thats why spec clutches started coming with a bigger shim so you pedal moves more fluid === complete disengagment.. just for thought the time difference when slamming the clutch pedal between a full pedal and an adjusted down pedal can not be that sugnifican especially if meaning a rebuilt tranny
just my opinion
if you adjust the pedal to the bottom (on an adjustable mc) yes you pedal has less travel BUT you are moving less fluid ====== you may not be disengaging all the way when you sre shifting ===== breaking **** thats why spec clutches started coming with a bigger shim so you pedal moves more fluid === complete disengagment.. just for thought the time difference when slamming the clutch pedal between a full pedal and an adjusted down pedal can not be that sugnifican especially if meaning a rebuilt tranny
just my opinion





