josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I had this posted in External Engine but the thread just dies. I figure you guys are the ones doing the battery relocation mod so I figure I'd post it here.

I'm doing a battery relocation with a Dynabatt battery and Taylor battery box. I'm going to get the wiring myself but I need to know what connections to make.

Obviously I need to make a ground connection, can I do this in the rear of the car (maybe on the bracket where the seat belt tensioner, sand down to bare metal and ground there with a ring terminal and star washer)?

What connections need to be made on the + side? I go from the battery to the... (fuse box, starter, alternator, just two of those, all three, etc)??? Also what gauge wire should I use?

Will the Dynabatt work well as the only battery in the car (CCA and reserve aren't listed on Thunder's site)? I currently have an Optima Red Top. If the Dynabatt wont work in the rear, would it be better to install the Optima in the rear (cheap) or the Dynabatt up front (expensive)?

Should I do any fusing or anything on the + side? Basically just need to know everything I need to get this done.

Thanks for any help.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

Have you tried running a search?

I know I posted a pic of the wiring diagram somewhere around here.....

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I did in External Engine and came up with nothing. Posted over in here before. I'll try to find something. Until then, what about the other questions (gauge wire, will the Dynabatt work, if it wont work Dynabatt up front or Optima in the rear, etc). Thanks.

JRcamaroZ28

iTrader: (41)

I used 1ga. welders cable and a red top optima in the back. as for the connectors i used welding lugs and regular post style connectors to connect to the battery. no problems w/ charging. like said above a search in here will yield alot of good info.

JR

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I was searching in the wrong forum. Tons of battery info here in Drag Racing Tech. Seems like Dynabatt in the rear is a bad idea, and with the added weight of the cable alot more work that it's worth to move a regular battery back there (I'll never have THAT much of a traction issue where better tires wouldn't help). Doing the Dynabatt up front is too much money as I know I'd want that hold down thats just as expensive as the battery is, so I guess I'll keep my Optima and do the wiring harness hide mod to the engine bay to help clean things up and to waste some of the very little free time I have. Thanks for the help guys.

csmonte

This is the pic. I got when I asked questions about this. While it helped me a lot, LT1 and LS1 cars are diff where there wires connect. I'm still having trouble w/ mine, I'm only geting 7 volts to my pump....I think its in the racetronix setup though???

Good luck, everyone says it a piece of cake......except for me

hope this helps

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

ignore me, im just posting so i can pull this back up easier in a few weeks to look at the diagram

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Don't you remember doing this last summer?? It's exactly what we did on my car dufus!!!! lol

Mike K.

I found a decent ground on the back fender, I just unbolted one of the bolts back there grinded until metal using a dremel and fit on the ground, using 1/0 guage as well. Works pretty good but I have been using a big battery so far.

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

hell no, i remember installing all the rear stuff but i left the hookin up of the front wires to you, thats all i needed.

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

That's cool. Just let me know when you to relocate the battery. I have alot of left over wire, terminals,etc.

Jason

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

do you have to do it like that. tell me if this will work. just unhook the battery and hook up a thick wire that runs to the back of the car and hook it to the positive side of the battery and then ground the battery. reground the wires up front. i know that there is no cutoff switch but it should still work right? since ive moved my battery to the back i have had some electrical issues, but not sure if they are related. tach, speedo and fuel pressure gauge have been acting up. also is 1/0 the standard? thats a pretty healthy wire

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

I used 2 gauge welding wire. Its rated up to 225 amps.

But you're not taking into consideration the alternater.

I'll post up a diagram of mine.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Don't you also have to have a breather to the exterior of the car when mounting the battery inside the car? Something else to think about when doing it.

Nate

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

alt is hooked up to the factory wires. and i am using a light weight race battery. mounted back where the spare goes

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

Here is how I wired up mine.

There is no point in using 1/O cable in some parts and 2 gauge in others. Its counterproductive.

I completely redid the wiring to all 2 gauge.

I can provide more pictures.

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

how would that look without the switch?

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

you'd connect the powerpoint directly to the battery.

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

Needs to be a fuse in there.....

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

working on it