For those that cut low 1.2 60's and maybe even high 1.1's
05-12-2005, 05:38 PM
#21
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Hey, King, we're are spraying the Firebird off the brake and are thinking about spraying ON the brake for one second to get up on the converter up here. What do ya think?
Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
Consistant 1.28 60', best of 1.24 60'
Car made 900 on motor and we were spraying 300 off a transbrake. It was a ladder-bar Mustang with a 28x10.5. No 'W'. Car weighed 3,100.
Car made 900 on motor and we were spraying 300 off a transbrake. It was a ladder-bar Mustang with a 28x10.5. No 'W'. Car weighed 3,100.
05-12-2005, 10:09 PM
#22
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Bad idea IMO.. No spraying just sitting there, and for a whole second. Do you realize how long that is. WOW.
I tried that once and it didn't turn out all that great.
The best traction is right up against the converter. It doesn't shock the tires as hard. If you use a 2step it gives the motor a running start to hit the converter and it shocks the tires harder. This is a good thing for a car that can hook up the power but for a car that can't keep that power on the ground with a little tire then a 2step is going to make it worse.
I tried that once and it didn't turn out all that great.
The best traction is right up against the converter. It doesn't shock the tires as hard. If you use a 2step it gives the motor a running start to hit the converter and it shocks the tires harder. This is a good thing for a car that can hook up the power but for a car that can't keep that power on the ground with a little tire then a 2step is going to make it worse.
05-13-2005, 12:40 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
Hey, King, we're are spraying the Firebird off the brake and are thinking about spraying ON the brake for one second to get up on the converter up here. What do ya think?
Have you called Neal Chance about building you a nitrous converter?
05-13-2005, 08:07 AM
#24
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Our goal is to run the same converter and r/p in Denver as at sealevel, but we lose 250 hp running up here. I was thinking that we could turn the spray loose just before the brake releases, which would simulate the same power we would have on the motor at sealevel; maybe 1/2 second or so. We're currently only using a 175 shot.
05-13-2005, 11:55 AM
#25
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1) If you havent screwed the tires to the rim do that right away
2) run 10.5-11psi HOT
3) Set your Torque arm to -3 degrees pinion angle (more may be required)
You will dead hook the car I guarantee it!
2) run 10.5-11psi HOT
3) Set your Torque arm to -3 degrees pinion angle (more may be required)
You will dead hook the car I guarantee it!
05-13-2005, 01:00 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Magnus
Well, I'm sure thats a very important part of the picture. Currently most of my vehicles weight is just engine and transmission.. all toward the front of the car..
What I do know though is that with my low power setup currently and the tracks I race at, 28x10.5x15 ET drag is not enough tire no matter how many outlaw cars run them into the 8's.. For my car, and the track preps I work with, its not enough.. so obviously throw a few more hundered HP into the mix and a harder hitting t-brake launch and I'm gonna need a lot more tire, especially when the car hits the wheelie bars on the ground..
How much tire though, I'm still not sure.
What I do know though is that with my low power setup currently and the tracks I race at, 28x10.5x15 ET drag is not enough tire no matter how many outlaw cars run them into the 8's.. For my car, and the track preps I work with, its not enough.. so obviously throw a few more hundered HP into the mix and a harder hitting t-brake launch and I'm gonna need a lot more tire, especially when the car hits the wheelie bars on the ground..
How much tire though, I'm still not sure.
05-13-2005, 01:08 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by Magnus
Yea, thats my fear.. I have a hard time hooking my current tire consistantly, what am I going to do with a lot more HP?
Definately sounds like W tire is the way to go.
I think the fact that my car is so light over the rear is a big part of my problem.
I want to be able to take my car to any track and be able to hook it well.. I want to relax and enjoy the car instead of having to dial things in due to changing weather and VHT thickness..
Thanks!
Definately sounds like W tire is the way to go.
I think the fact that my car is so light over the rear is a big part of my problem.
I want to be able to take my car to any track and be able to hook it well.. I want to relax and enjoy the car instead of having to dial things in due to changing weather and VHT thickness..
Thanks!
That pinion angle you have is weak! Also where is the instant center at on your car? Can you adjust it forward or backwards to hit the tires harder??
There are soo many ways to fix your car right now without going to a silly big tire.
05-13-2005, 01:09 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Outlaw
Magnus,
I read what you want and here is my take, you want to eat your cake and have it put in your mouth by a swimsuit model. I will put on my fortune-telling hat and look into the future. You will put the W's on, it will fix your problem with your 400hp and when that 600 or so is put into your ride, you will be right where you are now if not worse off.
Loudmouth and 01-Z both have things you should also already have, but I guess you don’t., If you use a transbreak on slicks, you screw your slicks and rims. This is not for fun, it’s a safety thing.
From the tone of others on here responding to your posts, you don’t heed others advice, so ill quit wasting my time. All I have left to offer you at this point is good luck...
I read what you want and here is my take, you want to eat your cake and have it put in your mouth by a swimsuit model. I will put on my fortune-telling hat and look into the future. You will put the W's on, it will fix your problem with your 400hp and when that 600 or so is put into your ride, you will be right where you are now if not worse off.
Loudmouth and 01-Z both have things you should also already have, but I guess you don’t., If you use a transbreak on slicks, you screw your slicks and rims. This is not for fun, it’s a safety thing.
From the tone of others on here responding to your posts, you don’t heed others advice, so ill quit wasting my time. All I have left to offer you at this point is good luck...
05-13-2005, 01:51 PM
#29
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Actually, Magnus has adjusted pinion angle and he got the car to work really well. I think based on his real-life testing, I probably need to check mine.
In real life, we can't go up to the starting guy every time and ask him to vht and fix the track up for us. I think Keith is looking to stuff a big tire under the car so it works most of the time.
I'd say that a 29.5x10.5 is not a bad tire at all. 28W's seem to work great too. If you end up going low to mid 9's on a some 1.2 short times I think you'd want to go with a 29.5 or a 28w. I'm looking at that right now for myself....
In real life, we can't go up to the starting guy every time and ask him to vht and fix the track up for us. I think Keith is looking to stuff a big tire under the car so it works most of the time.
I'd say that a 29.5x10.5 is not a bad tire at all. 28W's seem to work great too. If you end up going low to mid 9's on a some 1.2 short times I think you'd want to go with a 29.5 or a 28w. I'm looking at that right now for myself....
05-13-2005, 02:57 PM
#30
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my car has a 28 by 10.5 with stock shocks springs sway bar and phr... and it goes low 1.4's every time!!!! i can hook the car coming out of a car wash and it goes 2 tenths slower than magnus....
05-13-2005, 03:53 PM
#31
Screw your rims, fix your suspension. Then go test. And keep testing till the car works. We made 20 hits in one day on Joe Os car to get it where we wanted it. Most of the fast cars have tested numerous times to get there combos. Going out and making 2 passes when the weather is killer wont accomplish your goals.
05-13-2005, 07:19 PM
#32
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I was really trying to avoid screwing the rims cause I have these expensive bogarts.. but it seems like I have no other choice..
I'm not sure how much more I can fix my suspension. Everything seems right in that aspect for my power/weight level.
When I usually go out racing, I make quite few passes. I always have horrible reaction times cause I spend a lot of time focusing on what I am doing each and every launch. My reactions average between 1 and 2 seconds.
THanks for the advice!
I'm not sure how much more I can fix my suspension. Everything seems right in that aspect for my power/weight level.
When I usually go out racing, I make quite few passes. I always have horrible reaction times cause I spend a lot of time focusing on what I am doing each and every launch. My reactions average between 1 and 2 seconds.
THanks for the advice!
05-13-2005, 09:34 PM
#33
who cares about reaction time if all you are looking for is a time slip? i just think there is a LOT of good advice and more importantly good experience that you need to listen to if you want improvement. i agree that its silly to put a 29.5" tire under there with your power level when looking at how MANY MANY race cars run on true 10.5" tires.
if you just want to have people listen to your story then thats one thing. if you want improvement and advice, your arent doing a very good job. just my .03
good luck.
if you just want to have people listen to your story then thats one thing. if you want improvement and advice, your arent doing a very good job. just my .03
good luck.
05-13-2005, 09:47 PM
#34
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John, I'm not looking for a tire for my current setup.. It's my next engine combindation that I am trying to setup.. It will make much more power than my current setup that is for sure.
So far I think I've done pretty damn good with ideas and combindations.
10.9 NA Stock internals.
10.2 NA Cam Only.
My current setup consists of ideas from most of my friends and LS1 tech.. Wheels, Tires, Suspension, Weight Reduction, Cam, etc. etc...
So far I think I've done pretty damn good with ideas and combindations.
10.9 NA Stock internals.
10.2 NA Cam Only.
My current setup consists of ideas from most of my friends and LS1 tech.. Wheels, Tires, Suspension, Weight Reduction, Cam, etc. etc...
05-14-2005, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CHRISPY
1) If you havent screwed the tires to the rim do that right away
2) run 10.5-11psi HOT
3) Set your Torque arm to -3 degrees pinion angle (more may be required)
You will dead hook the car I guarantee it!
2) run 10.5-11psi HOT
3) Set your Torque arm to -3 degrees pinion angle (more may be required)
You will dead hook the car I guarantee it!
Good luck either way.
05-14-2005, 02:48 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Magnus
So far I think I've done pretty damn good with ideas and combindations.
10.9 NA Stock internals.
10.2 NA Cam Only.
10.9 NA Stock internals.
10.2 NA Cam Only.
05-14-2005, 03:50 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
-3 is A LOT of pinion angle. Wow! Usually if the car is pretty tight, -2 or so is the starting point and work down from that. That's how I watched them do it on my buddy's OSCA t/s car and it seemed to work pretty good. I think for him the best was around -1.
Good luck either way.
Good luck either way.
When the car launches you'll end up knocking a degree or so off that from loading the suspension
I bet Magnus is going positive pinion angle on launch.
Magnus, Have you used shoe polish on your slicks/rims to see if they are moving? A friend of mine was turning his slicks 1/4 to halfway around the rim. Added screws and went .05 faster in the sixty.
I am telling you, pinion angle, screw the slicks and run 10-11psi hot. It'll hook for sure!
05-14-2005, 04:02 PM
#38
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I think it's neat how you give him pinion angle when he's gone 1.31 and you have never gone in the 1.3's Chris. I slightly talked Magnus into the Spohn rear drag bar cuz his car was leaving all twisted, and the only selling point of Spohn vs others was that was chromemoly.
When he went 1.3's i was like ay caramba... at US41 no less.
Keith if you build a big inch motor that can go ~150 you will be on a 29.5 or a 30 and a wheelie bar to run at US41 all the time. Or GLD.
When he went 1.3's i was like ay caramba... at US41 no less.
Keith if you build a big inch motor that can go ~150 you will be on a 29.5 or a 30 and a wheelie bar to run at US41 all the time. Or GLD.
05-14-2005, 04:25 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I think it's neat how you give him pinion angle when he's gone 1.31 and you have never gone in the 1.3's Chris.
It doesn't change the fact that it will make a difference. My old car is not the only car I have worked on either. It doesn't change the fundementals of what he needs to do.
05-14-2005, 04:48 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by CHRISPY
I think it's neat you own a 750RWHP car that never sees the track or ran a 1.3 sixty either.
