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For those that cut low 1.2 60's and maybe even high 1.1's

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Old 05-17-2005, 06:38 PM
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Well, it will be a few more months before I am trying anything.. It's all planning for my new setup.

As always I will let everyone know how it goes.

I really appreciate all the help.

Thanks!
Old 05-17-2005, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnus
Outlaw, what is to fix in the suspension?
From your 60ft times, alot of things need adjusting or “fixing” from your setup to what you do or do NOT do as a driver.

Originally Posted by Magnus
The ideas I have had are all solutions that don't require "fixing" of an already working suspension":
Screw the tires
Launch from a lower RPM
Use a 2 step
Inconsistent 60ft’s tell me your setup is not working and does need fixing.

Originally Posted by Magnus
My car is light as hell and all my suspenion parts are top dollar and setup well. Not sure how much fixing there is.
Lighter the car, the easier it is to get the car moving. That should make for even faster 60fts. Straight up, your 60ft’s are not good and for the weight of your car and the tire you are running, its even worse. You have problems and it is MY FEELINGS that aint the tires.
I asked you some simple things such as weight bias of your car and you have not taken the time to figure that out. That means you really don’t take the time to figure things out and throwing “high dollar” parts at a car does not make a car work.

Originally Posted by Magnus
Outlaw, I'd like to see you try to "fix" my suspension to make the car hook a WOT Tbrake launch on the tracks I race at. I'd like to see my setup fail like it often does to due track prep and a small/uncsrewed tire and then you tweak a few suspension peices and make it work. I doubt it would make any difference, if only make it worse. Thats just my oppinion though.
Trust me if I was closer to you I would love to help you out at the track, but I am not. So many factors play into how to make a suspension work. That only making passes and working on your setup along with KNOWING what to do, will make your setup work.

I test on a track that gets no true track prep, so really, if I can make a car work on a crappy track, then I know when I go to a good track my car will work. I figure that over a season of racing, every PASS I try, even if I dont make it to the end of the track under power, ever pass I try, costs me $230.00 when I look at my total racing budget over a year of racing. From motor work, tires, truck, trailer, gas, food, supplies, etc etc, so I make sure that I make the most of every pass I try.

Everyone has given you things to try, so go give it a shot, what do you have to loose?

End of subject, go put your big tires on and we will leave it at that. Bigger is always better right?
Old 05-17-2005, 07:32 PM
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The suspension you mention that I noted in your reply is weight bias. You're right, I don't know what that is.

What I do know is the rear of my car is incredibly light where as the front is not as much. The solution, motor plates??? Thats not a minor suspension adjustment... not something I really want to do at this point.. Perhaps that is my problem though. If it is, i admit defeat.
Old 05-17-2005, 09:48 PM
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What does motor plates have to do with weight bias??? If you want to have the car hook on a crappy track then go to a good track and fly then you need some good pieces.

If you want to play then you have to PAY.
First SCREW THE DAMN tires. Then get double adjustables on all 4 corners. Get a real t/a thats adjustable. THEN GO TO THE TRACK AND MAKE PASS after pass and change one thing at a time. I will GIVE you a tuneup if you will at least buy good parts and try to make the suspension work.
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Old 05-17-2005, 11:34 PM
  #65  
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how is screwing the tires to the bogarts going to hurt the rims that bad? make sure the screws dont rust and you are fine. yes, they are nice wheels, but look at the total cost and time in this setup. wheels are the least of your worrys.

over and out!



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