Weight reduction for FAT daily driver
06-18-2005, 09:22 PM
#41
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
This is why you are a troll. 
If I was going to call things the way you do I'd say you don't drive a street car because you have a three speed tranny. After all, I was going to put a TH400 into mine but couldn't live with non lockup no overdrive on the interstate. I guess since you can "deal" with that on the street and I can't that makes your car a race car that you drive on the street, huh?
If I was going to call things the way you do I'd say you don't drive a street car because you have a three speed tranny. After all, I was going to put a TH400 into mine but couldn't live with non lockup no overdrive on the interstate. I guess since you can "deal" with that on the street and I can't that makes your car a race car that you drive on the street, huh?
06-18-2005, 09:27 PM
#42
Originally Posted by WILWAXU
Wayne, my car runs 10.7's N/A at ~3390. Does that make it a race car?
Nope, I 've seen your car and its well done alot of the weight savings are "hidden" so it still looks like a factory car.
If you had no center console no radio no heat a 5,000 stall and you took a 3" hole saw to it I'd say YES its a race car.
You are helping to prove my point John. You dont have to gut the **** out of your car to get it to run good numbers. Thanks
06-18-2005, 11:48 PM
#44
Originally Posted by ATVracr
Full leater and it looks stock except for the shifter and roll bar.
Originally Posted by ATVracr
Nope, I 've seen your car and its well done alot of the weight savings are "hidden" so it still looks like a factory car..
Originally Posted by ATVracr
If you had no center console no radio no heat a 5,000 stall and you took a 3" hole saw to it I'd say YES its a race car.
Radio: back when i did have it 75% of the time i was driving it was off anyways and i haven't bought a CD since i was in high school.Not much of a music listener.
To me "tin can racing" are the people who take EVERYTHING (carpet, panels, dash, seats) out of their car to run a fast time. All i do is throw on the slicks and take my tool bag out of the trunk.
5,000 stall: I don't wanna spray my car so i need a BIG stall to go fast N/A. or should i run a 3200 stall N/A?
Here's my interior pics you tell me if it looks like a rcae car or a street car.
(this was taken before i reinstalled the seat belts, yes both seats have seat belts)
06-19-2005, 02:29 AM
#45
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IMO what governs a street car or not is when it becomes uncomfortable or not streetable to drive on the street anymore. Once you don't want to or like driving it on the street its a race car. Anybody "can" drive their car on the street, Hell the space shuttle can even ride down the road lol but a true street car is one that is streetable.
06-19-2005, 10:23 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Who cares what it's called? If he drives it on the street all the time, why isn't it a street car? I tend to think along your lines, but keep it to myself and remember "to each his own". He is more willing to make sacrifices in the name of speed. I wish I was. 
To me a true street car MUST have a/c and heat, but that's just me. If you can go without either of those, more power to you.
To me a true street car MUST have a/c and heat, but that's just me. If you can go without either of those, more power to you.
You can buy cars with out a/c.
Alot of older muscle cars didn't come with a/c or it was an option I guess they were race cars too.
I beileve to each his own run what you brung. Some beileve NOS is the way, others weight reduction, and still others forced induction.
Live and let live. If it is taged, on the street, and could be driven as far as you want with out over heating etc. I call it a street car. If it has to be trailered everywhere due to fuel cell or overheating problems, race car.
Drive it to the track street car, trailer queen it to the track race car.
06-19-2005, 07:54 PM
#48
Rear seats, rear seat belts, light weight seats and carpet, weld wheels, remove back speakers, winshield fluid resovoir, front swaybar, center console, remove hood latch and bracket and install hood pins, remove one of the hood shocks, lightweight battery, lightweight brakes, k member and a arms.
Should be good for a couple hundred pounds right there and still be pretty comfortable.
Should be good for a couple hundred pounds right there and still be pretty comfortable.
