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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 10:47 PM
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Ok, last season, i was running my car in the VERY deep 12's at better thatn 117mph consistently. Over the winter, I installed a mcleod bellhousing, stage 4 clutch, front skinnies, rear et drag radials, strange rear w/4.10's, spohn frame mounted adjustable torque arm, lower control arms, granatelli relo brackets, ported throttle body, and a heavy duty steel driveshaft. I also had a cage installed at GMR during titn. I can NOT get this car to hook for ****, my trap speeds are 10mph slower than last year, my 60's are .3 slower than last year, and my et's are over a second slower than last year. I added so much to this car to run SLOWER than I was when I first bought the car! My pinion is set at -2 degrees, my lower control arms are in the middle hole of the relo brackets. Tire pressures are all over the place, I launch at all different rpm's. The only time I don't spin is at idle. To top it all off, I have a wicked fast paced vibration (driveline) at what used to be 70mph, now, at about 50mph. The vibration is not tires or the clutch. Could this vibration be killing the top end???
Any advice to battle this horrid situation is greatly appreciated.
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:46 PM
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That sucks. I'm not very knowledgeable, especially with suspension, but have you tried the lowest hole of the relocation brackets? From what I've read the lower you go the more it hooks. Too much hook for some people, even.
You obviously have more going on than the loss of traction though. Losing 10 mph shows something is way off. Good luck figuring it out.
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 12:21 AM
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driveshaft f'd up perhaps.. my friends 6sp was vibing badly about 60mph and getting worse.. he had his ds rebalanced....
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 12:34 AM
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thanks guys, those 2 suggestions are next. driveshaft is getting balanced on tuesday and lower control arms are being moved the lower hole.
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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i dunno what is causing u not to hook........ the lower control arms brackets i actually posted about in the thread below urs... ill prolly stick em in the bottom hole..

however the vibration is most likely the driveshaft after i did a lil searching on here for you. as far as loosing 10mph.... maybe a compression test is in order?

funny thing is is ur spinning, so u might be making more power if anything isn't way out of whack, but yet ur loosing 10mph with more power?
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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I would definitely try to find out where the vibration is coming from, It will kill more than your top end. Keep in mind, you changed alot of things on the car and first, they have to break in and it will get faster. But at the same time, you also added weight to the car. It doesn't sound like enough to lose 10 mph, but definiety enough to lose some ET. You said that your tire pressure is all over the place, I run an automatic, which does not leave like dumping a clutch, but if you lower the pressure on the tires to under 20 lbs and do good, hard burnouts, it should hook once you scrub them off a bit. If it doesn't hook, drop it by a half pound and try, try again. My current project starting running in the 12.4 range and is now at 12.01 in just three outings.
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 09:15 AM
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Just a couple things that popped into my head....How are your pushrods? Any missed shifts that could have bent some? I'm guessing you had stock gears before? The 4.10's are going to be tougher to hook on compared to 3.42's
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 07:25 PM
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rear and the clutch are both broken in properly, even more than recommended. tires were new when i bought them, roughly 20-25 passes on them. No missed shifts, hardened pushrods are in there anyway - should i still pull them? -
thanks for the replies
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 12:50 PM
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wouldn't worry about pushrods. just take a good listen on the valvcovers with a listening tool(i.e--big prybar or long scrwedriver to yoru ear) and listen for anything funky in the valvetrain..broken valvespring, bent pushrod, etc.

otherwise that is odd. vibration most likely driveshaft, after that the cuprit could be in the rearend vibration wise.

if your MPH is really 10 MPH off, then you have something going on. My first thought would be maybe your new clutch is slipping like a **** on the big end, that would contribute to big MPH loss.

if it was slipping bad in the 60 foot there would be your loss in 60 foot, thus ET as well.

if the car is running the same..no SES lights or anything, I would really start with that new clutch, if its slipping bad it would cause both your problems.
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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not trying to hijack the thread but I am having the same problem but mine is an a4 mine spins on a 28'' slick like it is on street tires
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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clutch is definenatly NOT spinning on the top end. RPM's are consistant. Pulled the driveshaft out to get it balanced and found the splines on the inside of the yoke are twisted. So I sent the driveshaft back to Strange for warranty replacement. Furthermore, once I get the driveshaft back, the car is going to a shop for the rear to get rebuilt. Once all this bull is taken care of, a few break miles later, I will see the track and see what happens.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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I would think the 4.10 gears are your problem with the launch tthey might be to much .

I think you are only lossing MPH because of the spinning it sounds as if the car is running properly or you wouldent be ripping the tires
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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I would think the 4.10 gears are your problem with the launch tthey might be to much .

I think you are only lossing MPH because of the spinning it sounds as if the car is running properly or you wouldent be ripping the tires
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