altenator or multiple batteries
altenator or multiple batteries there are pros and cons to both systems i am looking at running. if anyone out there has any reason that 1 setup would be better than the other.
setup 1.........running 2 optima batteries in the trunk.
pro... no load on the alt. (have you ever loaded up an alt and tried to turn it)
no need to run the crank pulley. big savings in rotating mass.
neg. batteries will need to be charged between everyrace.
could possibly have enough loads on the electrical system that batts may get too low
setup 2.........run 1 light weight batt and alt.
pro..... no worry of charging batt between runs.
no worry of system voltage getting too low
neg. load on alt
must run crank pulley
unsure what alt i can run.............i have a f.a.s.t. system so no alt
output control. not sure what voltage output would be of the factory
alt. and unsure how to mount a single wire or race alt. (i know bmr
now has a alt mount, but unsure if this would mount a aftermarket alt)
setup 1.........running 2 optima batteries in the trunk.
pro... no load on the alt. (have you ever loaded up an alt and tried to turn it)
no need to run the crank pulley. big savings in rotating mass.
neg. batteries will need to be charged between everyrace.
could possibly have enough loads on the electrical system that batts may get too low
setup 2.........run 1 light weight batt and alt.
pro..... no worry of charging batt between runs.
no worry of system voltage getting too low
neg. load on alt
must run crank pulley
unsure what alt i can run.............i have a f.a.s.t. system so no alt
output control. not sure what voltage output would be of the factory
alt. and unsure how to mount a single wire or race alt. (i know bmr
now has a alt mount, but unsure if this would mount a aftermarket alt)
sounds like the vote is for no alt!
is 1 16 or 1 deep cycle battery enough. with the loads of elec fan, elec water pump ,large n2o solinoids, trans brake, line lock and alot of other power sucking pieces.
is a special charger needed with the 16v batteries?
also if i eliminate the front crank pulley i will have to machine a hub to fill in to seal oil.............looks like a great use o the factoy pulley ive got laying around. just have to get it zero balanced by a maching shop after i get it down to size.
is 1 16 or 1 deep cycle battery enough. with the loads of elec fan, elec water pump ,large n2o solinoids, trans brake, line lock and alot of other power sucking pieces.
is a special charger needed with the 16v batteries?
also if i eliminate the front crank pulley i will have to machine a hub to fill in to seal oil.............looks like a great use o the factoy pulley ive got laying around. just have to get it zero balanced by a maching shop after i get it down to size.
I plan on running a deep cycle batt and running no belt down the track then on the return lane stopping and poping the belt back on to the pits and staging lanes.It is only a couple of minutes to take the belt on and off.On the dyno I gained 6hp and 5tq
Originally Posted by speedracerz
sounds like the vote is for no alt!
is 1 16 or 1 deep cycle battery enough. with the loads of elec fan, elec water pump ,large n2o solinoids, trans brake, line lock and alot of other power sucking pieces.
is a special charger needed with the 16v batteries?
also if i eliminate the front crank pulley i will have to machine a hub to fill in to seal oil.............looks like a great use o the factoy pulley ive got laying around. just have to get it zero balanced by a maching shop after i get it down to size.
is 1 16 or 1 deep cycle battery enough. with the loads of elec fan, elec water pump ,large n2o solinoids, trans brake, line lock and alot of other power sucking pieces.
is a special charger needed with the 16v batteries?
also if i eliminate the front crank pulley i will have to machine a hub to fill in to seal oil.............looks like a great use o the factoy pulley ive got laying around. just have to get it zero balanced by a maching shop after i get it down to size.
I have several friends that run NHRA Comp & Super Stock eliminators, and some of them are going back to 12 volts. They say 16 volts shortens electric fuel pump, water pump, and electric cooling fan's lives too much. Might be able to pick up something used if you kow some of these guys, and can't find the stuff new. TurboStart did list one with a 12 volt post also. Do't know if anybody else offers that. Mike told me the pro teams bought up all they could find when they heard about TurboStart going under.
Good luck, Ed
Last edited by Ed Wright; Jul 18, 2005 at 02:01 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 34
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From: hesperia, ca
most of the guys i know running superstock run both 16v battery and an alternator since they sometimes get hot lapped during events so there is no time to charge the batteries, or even check fuel levels.
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Launching!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
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From: longview, tx
I bracket raced an all electric car for years using 2 12v deep cycle batteries. I NEVER charged the batteries at the track. I would easily go 10 or so rounds. I did have the benefit of being able to spray water on the radiator to speed cooling in the pits though. Charge them batteries at the house and leave the noisy generator at the house!
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um, how do you plan on not running a crank pulley, you would have to have a custom seal made for the timing cover that sealed on the crank itself instead of the pulley i think?
i plan on leaving the alternator on the car and running with my under the hood dyna batt and if i have to put the belt on at the end of the track, but i should have no problems making it back to the pits on a full charge.
i plan on leaving the alternator on the car and running with my under the hood dyna batt and if i have to put the belt on at the end of the track, but i should have no problems making it back to the pits on a full charge.
Originally Posted by Ed Wright
A 16 volt does need a 16 volt charger. TurboStart has gone belly-up. Don't know who else makes them, but surely somebody does. I have a good friend that runs NHRA Pro Stock, and when they mandated bead lock wheels, he had to loose one 16 volt battery to still have enough weight to move around to balance the car. They, of course, log everything on their Racepac computers. He says his Racepac still shows 15 to 15.2 volts during a run with a single 16 volt batt. They have at least as much electronics as any of us.
I have several friends that run NHRA Comp & Super Stock eliminators, and some of them are going back to 12 volts. They say 16 volts shortens electric fuel pump, water pump, and electric cooling fan's lives too much. Might be able to pick up something used if you kow some of these guys, and can't find the stuff new. TurboStart did list one with a 12 volt post also. Do't know if anybody else offers that. Mike told me the pro teams bought up all they could find when they heard about TurboStart going under.
Good luck, Ed
I have several friends that run NHRA Comp & Super Stock eliminators, and some of them are going back to 12 volts. They say 16 volts shortens electric fuel pump, water pump, and electric cooling fan's lives too much. Might be able to pick up something used if you kow some of these guys, and can't find the stuff new. TurboStart did list one with a 12 volt post also. Do't know if anybody else offers that. Mike told me the pro teams bought up all they could find when they heard about TurboStart going under.
Good luck, Ed
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
um, how do you plan on not running a crank pulley, you would have to have a custom seal made for the timing cover that sealed on the crank itself instead of the pulley i think?
i plan on leaving the alternator on the car and running with my under the hood dyna batt and if i have to put the belt on at the end of the track, but i should have no problems making it back to the pits on a full charge.
i plan on leaving the alternator on the car and running with my under the hood dyna batt and if i have to put the belt on at the end of the track, but i should have no problems making it back to the pits on a full charge.
Friday I tried a 16 volt battery and no alternator on the dyno, still no gain. Thought keeping the voltage up & no alternator load would be worth SOMETHING.
12 volts & alternator charging versus 16 volts and no alternator, it laid one graph line over the other. Most of my NHRA Super Stock friends turn their alternators off during a run (One, a current record holder, uses 16 volts and no alternator working), they just charge them on the return road and in the pits. I figured there would be a little power to be gained there. Runs cooler on 16 volts, guess it speeds the water pump & fans up enough to help that. Good luck, Ed
to be precise i gained 13rwhp and 10rwtq removing my short belt that drove the wp and alternator, now i have a ewp and ima dyno with and without the belt on the alternator and see what happens, i know the ewp wasnt worth no 13hp 