Narrowing and backspacing.
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9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Gosh, I thought I had this all laid out, then when I start making phone calls, I'm get stumped again. Well, Strange told me that my axles splines are the same diameter as the acutal axle itself, but they don't cut or repline them there. They don't recommend it because the heat treat will be uneven because it has been cut causing them be to be weaker. So I asked how much a new set of axles would cost and they said that they don't make custom length street axles. So I would have to change over to the race which arent intended for the street. So it looks like my only choice is to go with the race axles which I could never drive on the street anymore and those are going to run me $410 for a set, then $62 for a pair of bearings. So I'm looking at $500 probably with shipping for a new set of axles and bearings. Then I plan to swap gears and the ring and pinion is $154, then they recommend the install kit which is $32, then ring gear bolts for $9. From what I've read on here, people are spending $200-$300 for a narrow job, how am I spending so much? Then I asked if I could get a set from Moser and they said no, the splines are made differently. When I have the narrow job, I planned on doing the gear at the same time since it will be out. What am I to do? Am I going to have to buy a new set of axles and be the race version or can I get mine cut and resplined? What all am I going to need to buy for a narrow job and gear swap because I dont wanna buy anything that Strange is just trying to sell me.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Well, the race axles are typically a little softer I believe. No reason you cannot drive them on the street. They just don't want you driving from Michigan to Florida non stop. Same thing everyone says. Since you'll be on drag rims anyway, it's not that big of a deal because a pot hole is going to screw your rim up before your axle breaks. That's typical Strange speak for buy more ****. It's great salesmanship and has some warrant to it, but it doesn't mean that you can't do it.
Most of the guys that are getting their axles narrowed locally are just getting them resplined and living with the fact that the heat treat will be a little off.
Most of the guys that are getting their axles narrowed locally are just getting them resplined and living with the fact that the heat treat will be a little off.
Sounds like you'd be better off selling the rear complete and ordering a new one exactly the way you want it.......
Hey Derty.....have you guys ever LENGTHENED a 9" axle housing? I need to lengthen mine about 1-1/2" to 2" each side. Can it be done or would I be better off with a new housing? Didn't want to mess with all new ladder bar brackets, shock mounts, back brace, etc. I'm getting new axles for it obviously too.
Hey Derty.....have you guys ever LENGTHENED a 9" axle housing? I need to lengthen mine about 1-1/2" to 2" each side. Can it be done or would I be better off with a new housing? Didn't want to mess with all new ladder bar brackets, shock mounts, back brace, etc. I'm getting new axles for it obviously too.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
We have not lengthened a housing. While I'm sure it's possible, I have not really tried it because everyone always wants them shorter. Obviously new axles maybe required for the new length depending on how much engagement is in the spool/diff.
Originally Posted by DERTY
We have not lengthened a housing. While I'm sure it's possible, I have not really tried it because everyone always wants them shorter. Obviously new axles maybe required for the new length depending on how much engagement is in the spool/diff.
Sorry to hijack Dragaholic.....
back to your regularly scheduled program.......
I found that it was going to be more expensive to have my existing moser 9" narrowed, axles chopped down, etc.. than it was to sell my complete rear end and purchase a brand new one from moser, so that's what I did.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
Well if Strange told me that the splines on my axles are the same size as the housing of the actual axle, then there should be no reason that it couldn't be shortened and resplined. So I have to get in touch with the person who is doing the narrowing and see if he can do it in house or if he has an outsource who does them that way I know whether or not I need to buy new axles. Again for a new set of axles, I'm looking at $400+. How much does narrowing and resplining a set of axles usually run?
I don't think I'd be better off selling mine and getting one built again the way I want it. Reason being, is that I would have to find a local buyer because I wouldnt ship this thing, then I would never get what I paid for it, then have to put up more money for a new one, plus they dont do custom lengths for street axles, so it would have to be the race. Then by the time they make it and ship it out, that will take another month or so. If I can get my axles shortened, that will probably be the best bet because my rear end is practically new and could possibly sell the axles and ring/pinion I'm taking out.
I don't think I'd be better off selling mine and getting one built again the way I want it. Reason being, is that I would have to find a local buyer because I wouldnt ship this thing, then I would never get what I paid for it, then have to put up more money for a new one, plus they dont do custom lengths for street axles, so it would have to be the race. Then by the time they make it and ship it out, that will take another month or so. If I can get my axles shortened, that will probably be the best bet because my rear end is practically new and could possibly sell the axles and ring/pinion I'm taking out.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
I ordered a new Strange 12 bolt rear end narrowed 3" per side, 4.56 gear, and a spool vs. my 4.10 geared posi. I also ordered a set of 15x10 Bogarts with 5" of backspacing. Both should be in within the next 2 weeks. I wanted to know before hand if I'm going to have to offset the LCAs with a 29.5x10.5 tire? I'm wanting to know so that I can get that out of the way so that I'm not out more time once I get the car all back together and then come to find out that I will need to. I'll have to sell the ones I have now and purchase a new set because mine are half poly and have spherical rod end. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I ordered a new Strange 12 bolt rear end narrowed 3" per side, 4.56 gear, and a spool vs. my 4.10 geared posi. I also ordered a set of 15x10 Bogarts with 5" of backspacing. Both should be in within the next 2 weeks. I wanted to know before hand if I'm going to have to offset the LCAs with a 29.5x10.5 tire? I'm wanting to know so that I can get that out of the way so that I'm not out more time once I get the car all back together and then come to find out that I will need to. I'll have to sell the ones I have now and purchase a new set because mine are half poly and have spherical rod end. Thanks.
Don't forget u'll have to clearance the fender and rear bumper for for 29.5's. And everyone says its a possibility that you may have to relocate the control arm. Its a simple thing if it does need to be done. a couple of half inch spaces and you'll have all the room you need.
Ok guys since we're on the subject. If I went and got my current 12 bolt shortened 3 inches per side. And I wanted to run 5 inch backspacing with a 325 DR on the car (which I beleive is a 13,5 section with if I remember correctly) would everything fit? I'm fine with relocating the lower control arm and getting a shorter sping. But is a minitub necessary? I'm kinda undecided if I want the tub or not right now. and I need to decide b4 i setup the rear bars for the cage
With that large of tire, your chances of having to relocate the LCA will be greater. You'll more then likely need to change to rod/rod LCA's.
Give me a call if you need them setup for your car.
If you want to save your money for now, hold off on purchasing them. It only takes a few minutes to install LCA's anyways.
Steve
Give me a call if you need them setup for your car.
If you want to save your money for now, hold off on purchasing them. It only takes a few minutes to install LCA's anyways.
Steve
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
Carbed4thGen, I know that the feners will have to be trimmed and the top lip will have to be rolled. I also know that I'll either have to mini-tub or beat the hell out of the fenders for proper clearance. My question was if I needed to move them in or not with the tire that I'll be running? If so, I know how to do it, just need to know if I do or not so that I can order the new set and get mine up for sale.
Steve, I've been trying to get ahold of you today and left you a message. If you get a chance today, give me a call. Thanks.
Steve, I've been trying to get ahold of you today and left you a message. If you get a chance today, give me a call. Thanks.
more than likely you will. but it's something very simple. at first i never got what they meant by the "relocating" but now i fully understand because it's how my LCA's are. something so simple a picture can show you... compared to a normal pair of LCA's, you get the rod/rod combo to move them over a bit and look like this:
see how there is a spacer to push the centerline of the lca over to fit the larger tire.
maybe you already knew this, but just wanted to toss it out there just in case
see how there is a spacer to push the centerline of the lca over to fit the larger tire.
maybe you already knew this, but just wanted to toss it out there just in case
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
I went 3" per side and 15x10 with a 5" backspace I think it looks real nice.
I went 3" per side and 15x10 with a 5" backspace I think it looks real nice.
__________________
I HAD A VERY NICE PIC OF MY CAR HERE BUT SOME *** **** ERASED IT!!
I went 3" per side and 15x10 with a 5" backspace I think it looks real nice.
__________________
I HAD A VERY NICE PIC OF MY CAR HERE BUT SOME *** **** ERASED IT!!
I say we hunt him down and ***** him with a fork.
Very good picture...sais 1000 words. It is a very easy modification. I believe Jeramy has poly on one end though so similar modification isn't as easy.
Jeramy, I received your message, you spoke with Lori, but wasn't able to call. I'll call you tomorrow morning.
Jeramy, I received your message, you spoke with Lori, but wasn't able to call. I'll call you tomorrow morning.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Yep, poly one end, rod end on the other. If I do have to move them over, I'll have to buy another set of LCAs. If thats the case, then I need to do that soon, like before the end of tomorrow. I want a set of chromoly LCAs for lightweight and strong construction. Priced them out, $275 for Spohn, $249 for BMR, and $220 for Wolfe, but the Wolfe set isnt powdercoated. Oh...Billingsley also has them for $219 and they DO come powdercoated. They also have the option of offset spacers for no additional charge.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
Does anyone out there know if I'm gonna need offset LCAs? I know its nothing hard/time consuming to change, but if I do, I'll have to order a new set of LCAs and if that's the case, I need to know soon because the other parts I've been waiting on will be in soon and I want to get my car back together as quickly as possible. I dont want the LCAs holding me up. Thanks.
I'll do the best I can to help. I HAD 29.5 X 10.5 ET drags with 10" weld draglites with 7.5" backspacing. I have BMR C/M tubular double adjustable LCA's.Stock length ford 9" rear
OK then
This tire has a 13.1" side wall width. There is a 3/4" gap between my sidewall and the LCA. There is a 1/4" gap between my sidewall and the heavily ground down area where the bump stop stuff used to be. You'll hit this area first if you don't cut it out. If you do cut this area out there will be a 1/4" gap between your sidewall and the LCA's with 5" back spacing. Do the math. Climb under your car and get the tape measure out. Go to MT's web site and get the tire measurements. That's all you need to do. Offset LCA's give ya an extra 3/8" to 1/2". The BMR tubular lca's and the wolfe tubular lca's are ther same thickness. No brainer there.
With a 4.5" back spacing your tire and wheel will be in the exact same spot as your 7.5" back spacing set up was. With a 5" back spacing your tire and wheel will be tucked in an additional 1/2". Get the LCA's with the offset bushings and put yourmind to rest. Don't worry, be happy. They are cheap anyway. Get them.
I am mini tubbing myself. I am having my ford 9" narrowed 3" per side. I figure with 5" back spacing my sidewall will be rather close to my LCA so I am going to order LCA's with offset bushings. If I have extra room I'll run 29.5 W's with a 13.6" sidewall.
Good luck
OK then
This tire has a 13.1" side wall width. There is a 3/4" gap between my sidewall and the LCA. There is a 1/4" gap between my sidewall and the heavily ground down area where the bump stop stuff used to be. You'll hit this area first if you don't cut it out. If you do cut this area out there will be a 1/4" gap between your sidewall and the LCA's with 5" back spacing. Do the math. Climb under your car and get the tape measure out. Go to MT's web site and get the tire measurements. That's all you need to do. Offset LCA's give ya an extra 3/8" to 1/2". The BMR tubular lca's and the wolfe tubular lca's are ther same thickness. No brainer there.
With a 4.5" back spacing your tire and wheel will be in the exact same spot as your 7.5" back spacing set up was. With a 5" back spacing your tire and wheel will be tucked in an additional 1/2". Get the LCA's with the offset bushings and put yourmind to rest. Don't worry, be happy. They are cheap anyway. Get them.
I am mini tubbing myself. I am having my ford 9" narrowed 3" per side. I figure with 5" back spacing my sidewall will be rather close to my LCA so I am going to order LCA's with offset bushings. If I have extra room I'll run 29.5 W's with a 13.6" sidewall.
Good luck
Last edited by Tom the roofer; Sep 7, 2005 at 04:19 PM.