Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Any pointers for me on the install of the switch, I don't think i'll have too much of a hard time with the relo, got a taylor relo kit with the sealed, vented box and all, just a little worried about how to wire everything. I was thinking to run the wire from the battery to the side it's supposed to go on the switch (was also told to run a wire from the alternator to that so that the car will completely shut off, but not sure what to do with the wire i'm gonna have sittin there that originally went to it from the original batt terminal) and then run a wire from the other side of the switch up to the original batt terminal and screw it on there with a nut and bolt and cover it in electrical tape. Then obviously ground the batt, which i'm not sure yet of a great grounding spot in the back there, so any pointers would help. And I was also going to take the stock ground terminal that went to the batt and screw it into the firewall where I took the bracket that held the a/c canister off at the recommendation of a buddy for some extra motor ground. So what you guys think, does that all sound right? I'm slowly doin the stuff I need to make her legal for 9's, next i'll be starting to pull the dash out to get her ready to get a 10-point and from what i've heard of removing the dash, i'm dreading it!

libertine1015

iTrader: (5)

If you do a search there is a good diagram on here somewhere. I just finished mine up and I ran 2ga all the way back for the electrical system and the alternator. Going with 2 ga. has been a nice upgrade since my windows have never gone up so fast!

Electrical system to one side of the switch, Battery feed and Alternator to the other side so that the alternator wont keep the car running and then ground to the fender well or frame in the spare tire well area where I assume the battery is going. Your stock ground up front sounds good.If you have the car running and flip the switch the car has to die or you are wasting your time. Also dont forget to solder on the terminals, crimpers are not the way to go.

As far as routing the cable I did the hidden wire mod at the same time and ran mine under the fender, through the fire wall, under the carpet along the seat, under the rear sail pnl trim and into the spare tire well. The only thing I didnt do it run 2ga right to the terminal on the driver side instead I used the stock positive cables and put them into an audio block with the 2ga feed in the other side. I dont reccomend it but I might want to go back to stock eventualy so I kept my options open. Its not the best way, Im ashamed.

BKHAWK1

I mounted a distrobution block where the sock battery was. Then ran the battery cable under the fender well, down the frame rail, then through the rubber groumet where the passanger, rear seat was. Then i went under the carpet to the spare tire area.

It matters what side you mount the cutoff switch to. I went with the Flaming River setup. If you want it to "push on" and "pull off"; i had to mount it on the right side of the spare tire compartment. If you want it "pull on" and " push off", then mount it on the left side of the spare tire area. My logic was i wanted the Handle closer to the body off the car when it was on so that you don't have this handle sticking way out there.

Also I removed the stock battery box which inturn removed the stock over flow tank. You can buy a recurculating tank from Summit for like $14. Then just go to the local hardware store and buy some rubber hose and a step down fitting to make it work.

93LS1RX7

iTrader: (8)

Hate to break it to you boss but you wasted your time and you are NOT NHRA legal with the cutoff switch.

The rulebook clearly states "If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch"


Sorry you cant have a "Pull Off" setup

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info guys! Any of you have any pics of how you mounted the switch? Mine is not a push/pull type, it's just a regular switch.

Brandon Boomhauer

iTrader: (10)

You mean that you NEED a "Pull On" switch, and "Push Off", according to your quote

93LS1RX7

iTrader: (8)

Yes I typed it wrong. I am retarded

It MUST be PUSH OFF

I edited the first post it is correct now

Brandon Boomhauer

iTrader: (10)

I figured thats what happened... Push/pull on/off, can get confusing

BKHAWK1

well Damn!! Sorry, I guess i will change it before i go to a big event. The tracks around here never check anything. you could run a 7 sec 1/4 in shorts and a t-shirt with no cage and noone would ever say a thing other than "Damn that was a fast car"

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I went to install everything and the battery box didn't fit in the spare tire well, had a taylor kit.

What battery box does everyone use in these cars to put it in the spare/jack area?

BKHAWK1

BMR is a nice setup. not sure if it is legal or not?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Nah, they just give you a tray, gotta have the batt in a sealed/vented box.

libertine1015

iTrader: (5)

The BMR kit is legal and you dont need a vented box if you use a dry cell battery like an Optima. That is what my setup is. No gasses to vent, no electrolytes to spill and spray around in the car

Yeah the taylor doesnt fit, I tried one first too before I got my optima, I had hardware missing from my Taylor box too and they totaly made it a hassle for me trying to get the parts so I just sent it back. If you want a wet cell try the moroso blue box, it is smaller.

libertine1015

iTrader: (5)

Also I mounted my switch in the center panel by making a clearance hole in the back side for the switch body and then using the on/off sticker to trace the hole on the outside. Then i took a dremel with a rotozip bit and slowly worked it to size for the switch to fit through. But then you have to cut an access hole through the brace that holds the trunk latch for the wires to pass through. Not as bad as it sounds it only took a couple hours total. Take it apart and look at it and you will see what I mean. I have an extra center panel if you want to buy one to keep yours stock. Mine is plenty sturdy and I use it everyday when I put the car to bed at night. Then if you want a reall cool set up you can add the remote terminals in the little strip of rear fascia under the right tail light for charging or jumping purposes without removing the rear panel to get to the battery, I havent done it yet but I probably will this winter when the car is down

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I actually have an optima red top, so by the rules, it's actually legal to not have it in a sealed/vented box, just secured down?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I was planning on putting it in the center panel like between where the letters for Camaro end and the right taillight. If that really is the rule, then i'm not gonna bother with a box since it's such a pain in the ***!

Outlaw

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/360332-battery-push-pull-disconnect.html

here is some more info

libertine1015

iTrader: (5)

Actualy I dont have a copy of the rulebook but I am going off of hearsay from this site. I called my local track and they just said no problem but they like to make money and it wasnt tech for an event or anything. I know someone on here can look this up for sure.

critter

iTrader: (9)

IHRA says you can't move a wet cell battery into the driver or passenger compartmenents and if in the trunk must be protected by a steel or al firewall.
NHRA says the same except it applies to all batteries and that you can use an NHRA approved battery box in lieu of a firewall.

Seem rather ambiguous for our cars. The passenger compartment and trunk happen to be connected. If you put in a "firewall", how tight does it have to be? Where does it go?

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. You have to have your battery vented to atmosphere in NHRA no matter what type of battery. IHRA says you're okay if it's a dry cell. One of the dumbest rules i have heard but legal is legal.

Nate