Aluminium rods
08-28-2005, 07:28 PM
#3
Manley, Bill Miller, GRP. AL rods are a good thing. Most hard core races change them every 100 passes. Some prostock cars change 20 to 25 passes. It is not worth the risk of failure. With most AL rods in a Ls1 the oil pan has to be notched a little depending on your stroke. Most of the rods come machined and only need to be pin fitted.
08-28-2005, 07:43 PM
#4
The Bull
We ran them in the Livernois engine at Thunder last year. We have a couple more engines that have them in it as well. They work really well. GRP's are the only ones that we've been using.
08-28-2005, 07:49 PM
#5
Originally Posted by DERTY
We ran them in the Livernois engine at Thunder last year. We have a couple more engines that have them in it as well. They work really well. GRP's are the only ones that we've been using.
08-28-2005, 07:53 PM
#6
The Bull
I'll have to get more details for you. I will say that they are not for street use after we've had some conversations with GRP. To much heat cycling in daily driving will ruin them. We have plenty of passes on them. There are also a fair number of cars here locally that run Aluminum rods in their 2000+ HP SSO cars.
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08-28-2005, 11:12 PM
#11
I can shift faster than you.
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I have used GRP aluminum rods in two GEN III LS1s (both shop car engines) with great luck. We got ~150 passes out of the first set before the motor was torn down after the season. Everything looked great. I'm sure there was some life left in the rods, but there is no point in pushing them if you don't need too, especially for their replacement price and the cost of a new motor if one lets go. 
Jason
Jason
08-29-2005, 01:12 AM
#12
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There are plenty of aluminum rods out there that will last a long time. The rods life depends a lot on how many RPM you will be turning and how much power you will be making, as well as how heavy the piston is.
08-29-2005, 08:48 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
I have used GRP aluminum rods in two GEN III LS1s (both shop car engines) with great luck. We got ~150 passes out of the first set before the motor was torn down after the season. Everything looked great. I'm sure there was some life left in the rods, but there is no point in pushing them if you don't need too, especially for their replacement price and the cost of a new motor if one lets go.
Jason
Jason
Who does your coating on the pistons, etc? Thanks.
08-29-2005, 12:59 PM
#16
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I used Bill Millers in my 471 low deck dodge that made about 650hp. This motor was shifted at 6600. I changed them around 300 passes. Never a failure. I think if you're gonna rebuild each season anyway, which I think a fast bracket car should, you might as well go aluminum. It's hard to beat light weight and strong.
08-29-2005, 02:54 PM
#18
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www.grpconrods.com
The weight of a 6.125" SB1000 rod with standard rod bearing and .927 pin is right at 470 grams.
The weight of a 6.125" SB1000 rod with standard rod bearing and .927 pin is right at 470 grams.
08-29-2005, 07:50 PM
#19
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The coatings are all from Polydyn.
When ordering, you just need to let them know the rods are for a LS1 and are "on-center"/no off-set. Other than this, it is pretty much a SBC rod if you are using a 0.927" pin and 2.100" journal diamter.
When ordering, you just need to let them know the rods are for a LS1 and are "on-center"/no off-set. Other than this, it is pretty much a SBC rod if you are using a 0.927" pin and 2.100" journal diamter.
