My attempt at minitubbing
DopeFedZ, I did not choose a backspacing yet. I may go with a 12" wheel and a BFT if I can relocate the LCA's without comprimising the geometry of the car. I know it can be moved over.
Slow Z28, Yes I do remember that about the ARE silver car. I'm really not worried about "stock location suspension rules". I bracket race 99% of the time and that is run what ya brung. Besides, I if I set the mounting brackets up to recieve the LCA in the OEM location AND also the modified location, I could change back over if need be.
Slow Z28, Yes I do remember that about the ARE silver car. I'm really not worried about "stock location suspension rules". I bracket race 99% of the time and that is run what ya brung. Besides, I if I set the mounting brackets up to recieve the LCA in the OEM location AND also the modified location, I could change back over if need be.
Originally Posted by Tom the roofer
Besides, I if I set the mounting brackets up to recieve the LCA in the OEM location AND also the modified location, I could change back over if need be.
With the Wolfe spring perches and the right offset lcas you can get a 29.5w in the wheelwell with out relocating the lcas. Tom the only problem with moving the lca mounting point will be structural integrity. You will need to brace box that the lca mounts to to keep it from ripping out the thin *** metal.
Thanks Madman. I haven't really put any thought to it yet. I just seen that the LCA fits into the area just inside of the OEM area. I know what you mean about thin *** frame metal.
Originally Posted by DopeFedZ
For those who have minitubbed cars. How many inches did you narrow the rearend and what backspacing are you all using? I'm thinking 2.5" or 3" max on each side and running a 5" or 5.5" bs. I just really wanted a bigger lip on the new wheels I'm getting and to have the wheel tuck under the fenderwell a bit more.
I narrowed 3 inches per side and have a 15x10 with 5 inches of BS, I have a 325/50 drag radial, which is the equivelant to a 28x11.25, its pretty big.....looks pretty good I think.
I put my LCA's as far inward as possible, I have minimum clearance, the wheel itself is VERY close to my LCA mounting bolt. I used 1/8" plate to re-inforce my LCA mount point on the body.
David
Sorry for the huge pics.
OEM LCA mounting point
the other
Passinger side. No welding yet.
Drivers side. I cut too much here. A little sheet metal work required.
Drivers side. No welding yet.
OEM LCA mounting point
the other
Passinger side. No welding yet.
Drivers side. I cut too much here. A little sheet metal work required.
Drivers side. No welding yet.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; Nov 26, 2005 at 08:16 PM.
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Originally Posted by DopeFedZ
Looking good Tom. Thats the Wolfe Tub kit right?
Originally Posted by Tom the roofer
Thanks Carlos. Yes it is the Wolfe mini tub kit. I've got tons of work left to do on this project.
It ends up being more than it seems in the beginning, doesn't it? I am interested to see how you tackle the rear drivers side tub.
Tom you know you can get an inch on LCA clearance if you stack the spacers to the outside.
On your idea on relocating the LCA's inward, do you plan on drilling a hole in the framerail for access? I am intersted to see how that pans out if you decide to do it.
BTW I have never seen an offset LCA for our cars, they make them for Vettes and other cars, why not ours?? Just curiuos.
David
David
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
It ends up being more than it seems in the beginning, doesn't it?
I am interested to see how you tackle the rear drivers side tub.
Tom you know you can get an inch on LCA clearance if you stack the spacers to the outside.
I also have a set of BMR LCA's shown in the pic. I tried to move the bushing on the BMR LCA's but they don't budge. I don't have the proper equipment either. I used a vise
Didn't work. I guess I could have 1 side of the BMR's machined down to within 1/8" or so and add grade 8 washers on the other side.
do you plan on drilling a hole in the framerail for access? I am intersted to see how that pans out if you decide to do it.
reinforce the frame rail with some thicker steel on the inside of the frame rail.
BTW I have never seen an offset LCA for our cars, they make them for Vettes and other cars, why not ours?? Just curiuos.
On the rear end section of this modification I have a set of BMR LCA relocation brackets. These could be welded in on the modified side with some reinforcement. The rear end side would be easy.
Tom
The bushings/spacers for the LCAs to be offset are easy to get made, one off's might cost you a pretty penny but if you just need slight more clearance than the Wolfe's offer and would be easier than 'relocating' the mounting points.
I have the drawings for the 'regular' centered LCAs with Rod Ends, I can have the drawings re-done to have offsets. It just needs a small bushing on the inside of the LCA mount for the Rod End to pivot on.
How thick is the shoulder of the wolfe bushing/spacers?
I have the drawings for the 'regular' centered LCAs with Rod Ends, I can have the drawings re-done to have offsets. It just needs a small bushing on the inside of the LCA mount for the Rod End to pivot on.
How thick is the shoulder of the wolfe bushing/spacers?
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
The bushings/spacers for the LCAs to be offset are easy to get made, one off's might cost you a pretty penny but if you just need slight more clearance than the Wolfe's offer and would be easier than 'relocating' the mounting points.
I have the drawings for the 'regular' centered LCAs with Rod Ends, I can have the drawings re-done to have offsets. It just needs a small bushing on the inside of the LCA mount for the Rod End to pivot on.
How thick is the shoulder of the wolfe bushing/spacers?
I have the drawings for the 'regular' centered LCAs with Rod Ends, I can have the drawings re-done to have offsets. It just needs a small bushing on the inside of the LCA mount for the Rod End to pivot on.
How thick is the shoulder of the wolfe bushing/spacers?
I measured and the difference between the 2 LCA's and it is an additional 2" of clearance. Now all of this clearance would not be usable because the spring and mini tub clearance would now come into play. The best I can figure you would gain an additional 1" of usable clearance before the tire would hit the spring. Is it worth it for an additional 1" of tread and sidewall? Another thought, Would the tire now hit the OEM panhard bar bracket? I'm sure this could be modified too.
To go any further the spring perches, shocks, panhard bar would need relocated and more cutting. Might as well full tubb the car then. But it does look like an additional 1"
BTW, I don't have a micrometer. I can't measure the bushings.
Looks good David. I wish I would have seen that pic a month ago.
I'm going to weld my frame cups and wheels wells in place. then I'll reinstall the rearend, throw on some wheels and tires and start measuring. I'll make a decision on what I'll do at that time.
I'm going to weld my frame cups and wheels wells in place. then I'll reinstall the rearend, throw on some wheels and tires and start measuring. I'll make a decision on what I'll do at that time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 20
From: Houston TX
Tom were you planning on modding the pan hard bar mount? Wolfe shows it off. When I called today to order the kit I was told they were going to move it or mod it for more clearance.
Originally Posted by DopeFedZ
Tom were you planning on modding the pan hard bar mount? Wolfe shows it off. When I called today to order the kit I was told they were going to move it or mod it for more clearance.
I did not plan on removing it however it may need to be modified. I'm not sure how much it will come into play until I get the rear end back in with some wheels and tires and do some measuring. I think it MAY come into play depending on what size tire and wheel you plan on running and also how far you plan on tucking the tire in. I just went out to the garage and layed a level on the area and drew a white line. The top of the line is where the mini tub cut is located. The bottom is of course where the pan hard bar bolts in. The colored in white area could be cut out and a plate welded in. This is my thought on modifying the PHB bracket. But I really don't think there would be a need to do this if the LCA stay's in the OEM location even with offset LCA's. I mean the wheel will hit the LCA first before it hits the PHB bracket. I think lol.
This is a first time for me too 
If you go any further than this then you might as well full tub the car.
We will be welding the frame plates and wheel wells in Friday night. Then I need to clean everything up, sheet metal work, paint, seam seal. Then I'll put the rear end back in with some wheels and tires and measure. I'll have a concrete answer then. You'll probably be finished before me. Keep us informed on your progress and I'll do the same.
Good luck
Last edited by Tom the roofer; Nov 30, 2005 at 04:06 PM.
11 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 10
From: long island, ny
i got an idea
mount the adjustable panhard bar in the upper hole in the braket(one used for the reinforcment bar) then just box everything for the strangth you will need
i think that would work nicey
mount the adjustable panhard bar in the upper hole in the braket(one used for the reinforcment bar) then just box everything for the strangth you will need
i think that would work nicey
