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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:47 AM
  #21  
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Default windshield

Originally Posted by Moparnos (The SLP Guy)
so does the front windshield have to come out or no
No , I did not remove my windshield.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 08:18 AM
  #22  
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Makes it a lot easier to paint it though.

Mine was installed with it in, but I pulled it for paint.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DopeFedZ

I noticed your cage doesn't have the 2 down bars that come off the main hoop and angle down to the floor...Is your cage certified for 9's? I always thought the 2 down bars were necessary and that your cage would be considered an "8-point" instead of a "10-point"
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:36 PM
  #24  
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I just ordered my front half kit for my 6pt i have.(well the gf did) My cage is mild steel and the front half kit is chromoly. I got the kit jig notched. Now with my kit am i gonna have to cut the little nubs for my door bars thats on the main hoop. Has anyone done this? Also with the threw the floor subframes, does the cage get welded to that as well?
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 02:30 PM
  #25  
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The only Wolfe pieces I've purchased thus far have been thru-floor subframes and torque box plates for my current LS1 Mustang project. I was pretty darned impressed with how well those subframes were shaped to fit the floor pan. It literally only took me about 2 minutes to touch up a couple areas, and I was welding them in. Very nice.

I've got a Comp. Engineering 8 point bar for the car that has yet to be installed (been sitting around for a couple years), and after test fitting it definitely will need some finessing to make fit right. I'm also going to need to find a tubing bender to do it
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #26  
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Brains who do you know that has a tube bender?????????????????????? lol
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:57 PM
  #27  
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That means I should probably wait until the car is basically done, and then just drive up there. I'll tack in the main hoop and door bars though.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #28  
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well you know I use a torch and that big tree to bend my tubing....
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
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Can I just put the tube on jack stands and drop the car on it?
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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It has been done I'm sure just make sure you use the STICK attachment on your welder to weld it up.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
well you know I use a torch and that big tree to bend my tubing....
what the hell
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
well you know I use a torch and that big tree to bend my tubing....
LoL... the torch and tree pipe bender

I just back over the pipe rack with the tow truck and sort out the bends I need ...and yes I did really back over it

Last edited by Maggie; Dec 14, 2005 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Brains
Can I just put the tube on jack stands and drop the car on it?
ROTFLMAO!!!!! h o l y s h i t thats funny!
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 10:42 PM
  #34  
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is there a bar that runs on the driver side along the bottom
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 09:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Moparnos (The SLP Guy)
so was it a pain to remove the dash for the front bars?
Does any one know if the AC can be kept with the Wolfe 10 point cage? Does anything need to be eliminated to put in the cage? Anything need to be moved or rerouted? Thanks for any info.

Oh! How does the dash get modified to clear the cage?

Last edited by 454Corvair; Dec 30, 2005 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 10:00 PM
  #36  
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The dash has to come out and then the notches cut.

Originally Posted by 454Corvair
Does any one know if the AC can be kept with the Wolfe 10 point cage? Does anything need to be eliminated to put in the cage? Anything need to be moved or rerouted? Thanks for any info.

Oh! How does the dash get modified to clear the cage?
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #37  
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yes you have to notch the dash to run the front down bars threw. as far as the ac crap i don't know i don't have that stuff
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 12:12 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Brains
The only Wolfe pieces I've purchased thus far have been thru-floor subframes and torque box plates for my current LS1 Mustang project. I was pretty darned impressed with how well those subframes were shaped to fit the floor pan. It literally only took me about 2 minutes to touch up a couple areas, and I was welding them in. Very nice.

I've got a Comp. Engineering 8 point bar for the car that has yet to be installed (been sitting around for a couple years), and after test fitting it definitely will need some finessing to make fit right. I'm also going to need to find a tubing bender to do it
wow, mine just needed about 8 1/2 inches cut off the ends of the main hoop. besides putting some weight on an in to bring it in an inch, the thing fit great
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