Has Anyone heard of/used these wheels?
12-10-2005, 08:18 PM
#21
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Steve, will Bogart ever sell a heavier, direct fit ls1 wheel that is dot legal? I would be interested in a set that does not require caliper grinding but was dot legal for a daily driver. If you get into an acccident around here wit "not for street use" stamped on a wheel , you're going to jail. They are pushing a new law through to make it a FELONY if you are caught "street racing" and have a N20 bottle hooked up anywhere in the car.
12-10-2005, 09:00 PM
#23
Bogart spokes were altered to a thicker x-sectional area design (near the shells) due to structural integrity issues that were seen. From a material standpoint, as mentioned, it appears that the weight distribution is quite different if your centers are 12 inches in diameter (which they appear to be from the picture). The P2 centers are smaller to move the mass towards the center of rotation). You're wheel looks like our P1 wheel. That being said, taking the area of the material and its location would alter center of mass differences. The actual worst and HEAVIEST weight area of concentration is actually on the bolt perimeter of the wheel centers (Bogart and your Holeshot has this area) (this is why we move them in and make the centers so small on the P2 wheels). Occasionally, we do get folks asking why our centers are SOOO small; the customers want to show-off their beautiful drag calipers. We are splitting hairs really so its moot point, no need to respond to it…
You’re correct, both designs are both very light but we do have what I feel are significant differences which I state to validate my comments. Once again, please I am not trying to argue with you, your wheels look fantastic on your car and you are obviously a satisfied customer, they meet your goals 100%...that is most important!…I know in the past, you seemed upset with some of my comments, I certainly mean no disrespect to your car.
I am pointing out many of the not-so-obvious differences between a Holeshot and a Bogart wheel. From the exterior, they look to be a very similar looking wheel from the novice looking at them. As I pointed out, there are significant differences between the wheel design
Regarding the shells, a variety of shell thickness and strengths are used to meet the wheel application and weight consideration goals for the user. We do not use one mil shell on every wheel.
It is a very important step to weld the wheels together. I understand where you are coming from where you’d like to be able to just purchase a shell and change them yourself if one is damaged. There are other issues of changing to extreme backspace considerations where additional stress can be placed on particular components of the wheel…when that occurs, other changes are necessary…i.e. different mil centers, different mil inner or outer shells. I HIGHLY suggest you not leave it up to yourself rather your manufacture correct or make any modifications so that it ensures you are receiving a correctly repaired or altered wheel.
As stated previously, it was seen from years of experience, forces generated from tires were creating fatigue stress near the bolts and cracking the material starting at the bolt holes, this is why the change has been made on a Bogart wheel. When it comes to repair, we actually repair our wheels at a VERY minimal cost to our customers. Anyone whom has worked with me needing a repair…they can attest to this. Warranty, repair work and overall customer satisfaction is VERY important to me.
You’re correct, both designs are both very light but we do have what I feel are significant differences which I state to validate my comments. Once again, please I am not trying to argue with you, your wheels look fantastic on your car and you are obviously a satisfied customer, they meet your goals 100%...that is most important!…I know in the past, you seemed upset with some of my comments, I certainly mean no disrespect to your car.
I am pointing out many of the not-so-obvious differences between a Holeshot and a Bogart wheel. From the exterior, they look to be a very similar looking wheel from the novice looking at them. As I pointed out, there are significant differences between the wheel design
Regarding the shells, a variety of shell thickness and strengths are used to meet the wheel application and weight consideration goals for the user. We do not use one mil shell on every wheel.
It is a very important step to weld the wheels together. I understand where you are coming from where you’d like to be able to just purchase a shell and change them yourself if one is damaged. There are other issues of changing to extreme backspace considerations where additional stress can be placed on particular components of the wheel…when that occurs, other changes are necessary…i.e. different mil centers, different mil inner or outer shells. I HIGHLY suggest you not leave it up to yourself rather your manufacture correct or make any modifications so that it ensures you are receiving a correctly repaired or altered wheel.
As stated previously, it was seen from years of experience, forces generated from tires were creating fatigue stress near the bolts and cracking the material starting at the bolt holes, this is why the change has been made on a Bogart wheel. When it comes to repair, we actually repair our wheels at a VERY minimal cost to our customers. Anyone whom has worked with me needing a repair…they can attest to this. Warranty, repair work and overall customer satisfaction is VERY important to me.
12-10-2005, 09:28 PM
#24
Originally Posted by onfire
Steve, will Bogart ever sell a heavier, direct fit ls1 wheel that is dot legal? I would be interested in a set that does not require caliper grinding but was dot legal for a daily driver. If you get into an acccident around here wit "not for street use" stamped on a wheel , you're going to jail. They are pushing a new law through to make it a FELONY if you are caught "street racing" and have a N20 bottle hooked up anywhere in the car.
The “for racing use only” does NOT state this on the outside of the wheel as many other manufactures do, (not to hide the fact they are not street legal), they are scribed on the INSIDE wheel shell (between the tire beads) to deter from the esthetic beauty of the wheel.
We do not have any plans to pay for DOT approval stamp. This does keep costs down as well which we like to keep down for our customers. Obviously as our costs go up, so does the customers. The RR wheels are VERY strong…I go as much to say stronger designed then some of the DOT wheels I’ve seen out there. I can’t tell you to use our wheels on the street though. If you need the DOT approval, then you need to stick with a DOT labeled wheel.
We do have a street/strip design that is stronger then a P1 setup and just a tad heavier…component considerations have kept us from designing these as a drag setup alternative. I worked on the prototypes a good while ago…it was promising drag alternative setup for the F-body guys…there was opportunity with the 4 inch skinnies that I just couldn’t work around for the LS1 cars tucking them in the way I wanted to. I really haven’t promoted them or list them on the website. It is something I do and consider when I receive comments or questions that they want something a bit stronger or different here or there.
I’m working on an LT1 setup as we speak that encompasses this design (wider wheels though). Some of you may have heard of the customer before if you frequent another older very popular F-body board (I won’t disclose him due to client confidentiality). When it’s completed, I’ll be certain to show you guys what we did and show pictures.
I don’t want to deter from the original posters questions, so please if you have additional questions or concerns, feel free to e-mail or call me and I would be happy to discuss this further with you.
Steve
PS (why does it seem my posts are so long winded...lol, I appologize if I rant sometimes.)
12-10-2005, 10:48 PM
#26
Originally Posted by onfire
They are pushing a new law through to make it a FELONY if you are caught "street racing" and have a N20 bottle hooked up anywhere in the car.
12-11-2005, 12:03 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by steve10
they are scribed on the INSIDE wheel shell (between the tire beads) to deter from the esthetic beauty of the wheel.
Steve
PS (why does it seem my posts are so long winded...lol, I appologize if I rant sometimes.)
That white WS6 looks BAD ***
12-11-2005, 12:27 PM
#28
Thats a good ball park figure. Prices really depend on how we build them, what wheels you choose etc. If you want an estimate or suggestion for your car, feel free to click my "e-mail me..." link listed below.
Attached is one of the latest setup we made that looks mean. They look very good against the dark color.
Steve
Attached is one of the latest setup we made that looks mean. They look very good against the dark color.
Steve
12-11-2005, 06:12 PM
#30
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Tally Your rear rim's 15X8 or 15X10?? Size rear tire??
Kyle
Kyle
mine are 15x8 with a 28x9 et drag. when i ordered them the 15x10 stock was on 12 week backorder
i plan on getting the to change the rear barrels so they are 15x10
