9"/12 Bolt Guys: Relo Brackets Needed?
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
9"/12 Bolt Guys: Relo Brackets Needed? Hey guys - I'll be going to a 9" or 12 Bolt in the next month (haven't made up my mind yet, likely 12 bolt). The car is getting full rear suspension at the same time, the only thing I'm leaving stock is the springs. That being said, the car shouldn't sit any lower, and I never plan on using lowering springs (I might take the isolators off the stockers).
Will I need to buy relocation brackets anyways?
If not - is there any advantage to doing so?
The car is going to be launched HARD at the track, and traction will be a must. Thanks in advance folks!
Will I need to buy relocation brackets anyways?
If not - is there any advantage to doing so?
The car is going to be launched HARD at the track, and traction will be a must. Thanks in advance folks!
I am skeptical on this topic. I put them on my 10-bolt and did not notice a difference (stayed arround 1.9 60' even with DRs dead hooking). Then I did a torque arm and BAM 1.6-1.7 60' runs all day long. I understand a lowerred car would benefit most but not sure on stock height.
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My car sits near stock, and my instant center is behind the car without relocation brackets. I think the control arm mounts are higher on the 9" in relation to the stock 10 bolt. So if you want all your suspension geometry to be right you will need them.
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I do not have them and my car does pretty well.....
I would look at the LCA position once the rear end is in there. and test it on a track that is worth a cuss, ie Jackson comes to mind.
I have some on the shelf for the Moser for IF i need them, so far I dont.
I would look at the LCA position once the rear end is in there. and test it on a track that is worth a cuss, ie Jackson comes to mind.
I have some on the shelf for the Moser for IF i need them, so far I dont.
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Shingle Springs, CA
From the Spohn site:
Repositions your instant center by lowering your control arm angle for increased traction and anti-squat. Lowers rear of control arm up to 3". This product is a must for lowered vehicles to correct your suspension geometry. Lowering your vehicle alters the LCA angle putting the rear of the LCA higher than the front of the LCA, this causes massive wheel hop and traction loss.
NON-LOWERED vehicles will also see a dramatic increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the LCA with our relocation brackets. The lower mount holes are placed in the arc pattern of the OEM length LCA. Therefore allowing a non-lowered F-Body to drop the rear LCA angle and NOT require a longer than OEM LCA. All geometry is correctly maintained. The anti-squat performance is providing most users with a full .10 or better 60' reduction!
Repositions your instant center by lowering your control arm angle for increased traction and anti-squat. Lowers rear of control arm up to 3". This product is a must for lowered vehicles to correct your suspension geometry. Lowering your vehicle alters the LCA angle putting the rear of the LCA higher than the front of the LCA, this causes massive wheel hop and traction loss.
NON-LOWERED vehicles will also see a dramatic increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the LCA with our relocation brackets. The lower mount holes are placed in the arc pattern of the OEM length LCA. Therefore allowing a non-lowered F-Body to drop the rear LCA angle and NOT require a longer than OEM LCA. All geometry is correctly maintained. The anti-squat performance is providing most users with a full .10 or better 60' reduction!
I did not need them lowered on the 10bolt, but once I isntalled the 12bolt my LCA angle was way off and experienced horrible wheel hop. It would be a good idea to get them with the 12bolt.
An LCA is an LCA is an LCA. You can use any relocation bracket, I used BMR I think with Spohn adj LCA's
Originally Posted by jdoyle
hey i have some hotchkis lower control arms, but they do not sell reloction bracket, what relocation brackets can i use, BMR?
or do i need to get new LCAs too?
or do i need to get new LCAs too?
