Race electrical
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Launching!
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 257
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From: Northern Virginia
Race electrical Does anyone have or know where to get a diagram of a basic drag car electrical system as a starting point? I am going to probably end up rewiring my car and would ljust like a good baseline. I really don't care how many circuits it has, just looking for a diagram.
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From: Evansville, IN
I had no issues at all modifying my stock harness this past winter. Fired her right up and drove off at the beginning of summer. I went through and got rid of everything I was not using. That includes but not limited to: All HVAC wiring, Door locks, Power windows, Power mirrors, Keyless entry module, Express down Module, Horn wiring, ABS brain box and wiring, Air bags and wiring and brain box, VATS, Trunk release wiring, interior lighting. I am probably forgetting alot.
It is not that hard. I had a factory service manual, which has all of the electrical diagrams. Just take your time and do it right. Here is one of the pics of some of the wiring removed. This not all of it, but the only pic I could find.
It is not that hard. I had a factory service manual, which has all of the electrical diagrams. Just take your time and do it right. Here is one of the pics of some of the wiring removed. This not all of it, but the only pic I could find.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 257
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From: Northern Virginia
Ok, maybe I didn't make myself clear...
I am not reusing the stock harness, I am making a complete new one. This is a minimalist setup for an 8 second, BBC TA. I was hoping somone had a wiring schematic for a pure racing setup that I could use as a baseto develop my own diagram. I'm only looking at 6 or 7 circuits max.
I am not reusing the stock harness, I am making a complete new one. This is a minimalist setup for an 8 second, BBC TA. I was hoping somone had a wiring schematic for a pure racing setup that I could use as a baseto develop my own diagram. I'm only looking at 6 or 7 circuits max.
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From: In a cave
I'd say go painless. I ordered the race car/prostreet harness, the 12 circuit. Although I didn't go for the switch panel, one can be fabricated just as easily and save yourself the extra couple of hundred dollars. I haven't gotten to the point of wiring yet but it looks like it should be kind of easy.
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From: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
I wired my race car the way you are thinking about. When I bought my rolling chassis car, it had no wires at all in it and now it all works. I used the painless race car harness, and alot of other things too.
Check out my post for pictures and more detail My race car wiring
Let me know if you have questions or need help.
Check out my post for pictures and more detail My race car wiring
Let me know if you have questions or need help.
Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95
I wired my race car the way you are thinking about. When I bought my rolling chassis car, it had no wires at all in it and now it all works. I used the painless race car harness, and alot of other things too.
Check out my post for pictures and more detail My race car wiring
Let me know if you have questions or need help.
Check out my post for pictures and more detail My race car wiring
Let me know if you have questions or need help.
^^^ his pictures helped with ALOT of the wiring ideas
Originally Posted by Thunder175
Ok, maybe I didn't make myself clear...
I am not reusing the stock harness, I am making a complete new one. This is a minimalist setup for an 8 second, BBC TA. I was hoping somone had a wiring schematic for a pure racing setup that I could use as a baseto develop my own diagram. I'm only looking at 6 or 7 circuits max.
I am not reusing the stock harness, I am making a complete new one. This is a minimalist setup for an 8 second, BBC TA. I was hoping somone had a wiring schematic for a pure racing setup that I could use as a baseto develop my own diagram. I'm only looking at 6 or 7 circuits max.
i have used painless harnesses before and i have to say that they are not complete, even their race car harnesses. It is the best starting point but is you want to wire in high amp parts correctly like fuel pumps, fans, water pumps, nitrous systems, and etc, you need to wire in all the relays your self, painless switch panels and harnesses don't come with them. I have added 10 relays to my stock harness to wire everything correctly, also both sides of the relays, low/high are fused, every circuit is relayed and fused. I would suggest the same on a race car, you never know what will happen. I have seen way too many cars burn down because of shady wiring. Even my rear mount battery has a 200 amp fuse right on the battery so both 0 gauge battery cables are protected.
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From: In a cave
Originally Posted by lafnlt1
i have used painless harnesses before and i have to say that they are not complete, even their race car harnesses. It is the best starting point but is you want to wire in high amp parts correctly like fuel pumps, fans, water pumps, nitrous systems, and etc, you need to wire in all the relays your self, painless switch panels and harnesses don't come with them. I have added 10 relays to my stock harness to wire everything correctly, also both sides of the relays, low/high are fused, every circuit is relayed and fused. I would suggest the same on a race car, you never know what will happen. I have seen way too many cars burn down because of shady wiring. Even my rear mount battery has a 200 amp fuse right on the battery so both 0 gauge battery cables are protected.
Originally Posted by 69chevy
How do you go about putting fuses in-line of an accessory or something? You got me thinking that's the way to go but I just have no idea on how to do it. And by relays, what do you mean? I'm not an electrical guru and are just curious as to what you mean. I have the 50002 kit which is supposed to wire up directly to the original steering column and has the pigtails for lights, etc. Thanks
this is only a vary basic description of my car.
i have a main power wire off the fuse box that runs off a fuse, this wire divids to my 6 switches, from there, the wires go to my relays to turn them on. the switches only operate the small load side of the relay.
ok, for the high side, all in the engine bay, i have an 4 gauge wire coming off the starter to a juction block, there is where the factory power wires connect to and a couple of acc. i have a 8 gauge wire going to a fuse block that holds 6 30 amp fues for 6 accesories. the block has 6 outlet for each fuse. each wire goes to each relay, then out of each relay to the loads.
the switches never have to handle the full load and every wire is fused from it's sourse. also, every high side wire is a 10 gauge wire to and from the relay.
running systems like this is the best and safest way, everything is fused and the use of 10 gauge wires to and from the relays allow the loads to run to it's fullest potensial. you don't want a small wire to run a large load, the wire will get hot and start to cause a resistence issue.
like a fuel system, you never want to under size it, or your motor will choke.
my wiring is way more exotic then what is listed but i tried to be as basic as posible. hope this helps a little.
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From: In a cave
Originally Posted by lafnlt1
that kit is a good start, basicaly, a relay is a switch that uses a small load, .3A, to turn on a high load, fans, fuel pumps, ect.
this is only a vary basic description of my car.
i have a main power wire off the fuse box that runs off a fuse, this wire divids to my 6 switches, from there, the wires go to my relays to turn them on. the switches only operate the small load side of the relay.
ok, for the high side, all in the engine bay, i have an 4 gauge wire coming off the starter to a juction block, there is where the factory power wires connect to and a couple of acc. i have a 8 gauge wire going to a fuse block that holds 6 30 amp fues for 6 accesories. the block has 6 outlet for each fuse. each wire goes to each relay, then out of each relay to the loads.
the switches never have to handle the full load and every wire is fused from it's sourse. also, every high side wire is a 10 gauge wire to and from the relay.
running systems like this is the best and safest way, everything is fused and the use of 10 gauge wires to and from the relays allow the loads to run to it's fullest potensial. you don't want a small wire to run a large load, the wire will get hot and start to cause a resistence issue.
like a fuel system, you never want to under size it, or your motor will choke.
my wiring is way more exotic then what is listed but i tried to be as basic as posible. hope this helps a little.
this is only a vary basic description of my car.
i have a main power wire off the fuse box that runs off a fuse, this wire divids to my 6 switches, from there, the wires go to my relays to turn them on. the switches only operate the small load side of the relay.
ok, for the high side, all in the engine bay, i have an 4 gauge wire coming off the starter to a juction block, there is where the factory power wires connect to and a couple of acc. i have a 8 gauge wire going to a fuse block that holds 6 30 amp fues for 6 accesories. the block has 6 outlet for each fuse. each wire goes to each relay, then out of each relay to the loads.
the switches never have to handle the full load and every wire is fused from it's sourse. also, every high side wire is a 10 gauge wire to and from the relay.
running systems like this is the best and safest way, everything is fused and the use of 10 gauge wires to and from the relays allow the loads to run to it's fullest potensial. you don't want a small wire to run a large load, the wire will get hot and start to cause a resistence issue.
like a fuel system, you never want to under size it, or your motor will choke.
my wiring is way more exotic then what is listed but i tried to be as basic as posible. hope this helps a little.
Originally Posted by 69chevy
Also, are relays required or you can get by without using them? It seems that they SHOULD be used but not necessarily having to use them.
you can get away without as long as your acc. are low loads. Double check the amp draw on your fans and stuff and then check if the painless harness wires can support that kind of amp draw. if you are building a serious race car, i would suggest using all relays.