When is it enough?
Originally Posted by CamTom12
I'm shooting for a 10-sec daily driver 
with a full interior.
with a full interior.
That's a feat to do with a stick car.. or are you going the th400 route like the rest of us........?
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Central Indiana Honors: 4th grade spelling bee contestant
If you enjoy spending lots of time on the track, it's not too expensive.
The less time you spend on the track, the more expensive it gets
The less time you spend on the track, the more expensive it gets
7 Second Club
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
I've been trying to keep my habit in check for a while. I think your priorities (and wallet as well) set the limits.
My Nova "only" runs mid 11s N/A and she'd run faster I'm sure but I save my pennies for stuff that make her hook consistently and a good bracket car, as opposed to stuff to make her faster. Started at 17 seconds with the stock 307 engine back in 1997, and I'm aiming for hopeful high 10s N/A next year with a little more cam and headwork. I've been running around the mid 11s for 3 years now, and wanting to step up a little, but not lose streetability. Plus I like factory appearing, so the 3500 lb raceweight (with me on board) hurts and I could easily drop 2 tenths shaving weight, so full interior, all steel body and street-easy are important to me.
The Formula follows the same philosophy: I could do a lot more, but already have 1 car that's my money pit. She's got 112,000 miles and anything I change to add power now will cost me in the "fix-this-and-that" catagory. So she will be left a daily driver with minimal change (only possible upgrades will be when the motor needs rebuilding, and then small stuff, but nothing radical).
So, is it ever enough? I don't think so, but how bad it gets carried away is up to you.
Derek
My Nova "only" runs mid 11s N/A and she'd run faster I'm sure but I save my pennies for stuff that make her hook consistently and a good bracket car, as opposed to stuff to make her faster. Started at 17 seconds with the stock 307 engine back in 1997, and I'm aiming for hopeful high 10s N/A next year with a little more cam and headwork. I've been running around the mid 11s for 3 years now, and wanting to step up a little, but not lose streetability. Plus I like factory appearing, so the 3500 lb raceweight (with me on board) hurts and I could easily drop 2 tenths shaving weight, so full interior, all steel body and street-easy are important to me.
The Formula follows the same philosophy: I could do a lot more, but already have 1 car that's my money pit. She's got 112,000 miles and anything I change to add power now will cost me in the "fix-this-and-that" catagory. So she will be left a daily driver with minimal change (only possible upgrades will be when the motor needs rebuilding, and then small stuff, but nothing radical).
So, is it ever enough? I don't think so, but how bad it gets carried away is up to you.
Derek
Mine's simple.
with this motor,
11's on motor, 10's on spray
swap to a low comp turbo setup, and 10's on low boost, and high 9's on high boost.
Both are attainable, and i do intend on swapping to a TH-400
with this motor,
11's on motor, 10's on spray
swap to a low comp turbo setup, and 10's on low boost, and high 9's on high boost.
Both are attainable, and i do intend on swapping to a TH-400
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 791
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From: Tulsa, Ok
i want to do 10's in my full weight, daily driven (when i'm not on the v-rod 
), 6-speed.
it won't be easy, but that's the goal.
it is a sickness, started out with the car just wanting an easy 12 sec DD, then low 12's, then 11's. i don't think i'll push it much more than it is now, as i think it is already on the verge of being really reliable.
it's not so much the engine that breaks, its all the other parts that try to hold the car together
), 6-speed.it won't be easy, but that's the goal.
it is a sickness, started out with the car just wanting an easy 12 sec DD, then low 12's, then 11's. i don't think i'll push it much more than it is now, as i think it is already on the verge of being really reliable.
it's not so much the engine that breaks, its all the other parts that try to hold the car together
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11 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
For me it's easy. I want to eek out one 9.99 pass (just for bragging rights) and after that I will tune the N20 down so I consistantly run low 10's. I figure low 10's can be done reliably in a streetable car. I don't want 9's (other then one pass) because I don't want to have to get a NHRA licence, window net, roll cage (6 point bar is all I wanna live with), parachute, ect.
Besides, it's all ready costing me 15K to run low 10's. I don't even want to think at what kind of a pricetag 9's & 8's has attatched to it
Besides, it's all ready costing me 15K to run low 10's. I don't even want to think at what kind of a pricetag 9's & 8's has attatched to it
I perfecting mine too, by the route of a 402 CI motor, and a th400.... push in the button when I see yellow, take foot off the brake, put the right foot to the floor, and let go of button when the last yellow is fully lit... and pull the lever when the light comes on Oh, and hang on!
Kinda hard to screw that up.
Oh, and hang on!Kinda hard to screw that up.
8 second mod
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I perfecting mine too, by the route of a 402 CI motor, and a th400.... push in the button when I see yellow, take foot off the brake, put the right foot to the floor, and let go of button when the last yellow is fully lit... and pull the lever when the light comes on Oh, and hang on!
Kinda hard to screw that up.
Oh, and hang on!Kinda hard to screw that up.
Of course, I'll have to leave the first pass easy, probably stall it up to 3500 on the footbrake to make sure the car will go strait and whatnot.... after that I will probably try leaving as hard as I can off the footbrake.... then start playing with the transbrake, but I need to make sure the car is leaving right first... at least 1.50 60 foot times leaving off the footbrake hard. If it's not doing that, then I'll have to adjust and try again.... if the car hooks and goes strait, I don't see how it can be screwed up, just shift the car when the shift light comes on, and keep the bitch strait!
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Of course, I'll have to leave the first pass easy, probably stall it up to 3500 on the footbrake to make sure the car will go strait and whatnot.... after that I will probably try leaving as hard as I can off the footbrake.... then start playing with the transbrake, but I need to make sure the car is leaving right first... at least 1.50 60 foot times leaving off the footbrake hard. If it's not doing that, then I'll have to adjust and try again.... if the car hooks and goes strait, I don't see how it can be screwed up, just shift the car when the shift light comes on, and keep the bitch strait!
but more then once after my burnout i left it in 2nd gear, other times if your arm isnt braced, when you launch, you pull 2nd by accident, b-man was famous for leaving it in 2nd
its not hard, but it can be alot (maybe not on motor tho
A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so totally sick that the act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster
thats what i live by
This is a good post, im glad im not alone.. its never enough..
In over 3 years i have replaced everything on my car, minus the shell, k memeber, A arms and brakes..(thats my winter MOD this year)
The funny thing is when all 3 of them are replaced i am going back to where i started..
The motor.. I am going to start the build up on another short block.. The way i look at it, if it wasnt for the car, id be collecting star wars figures or something dumb and wouldnt have nothing to show for it.. My car is paid for and its all been done by me, thats priceless..
In over 3 years i have replaced everything on my car, minus the shell, k memeber, A arms and brakes..(thats my winter MOD this year)
The funny thing is when all 3 of them are replaced i am going back to where i started..
The motor.. I am going to start the build up on another short block.. The way i look at it, if it wasnt for the car, id be collecting star wars figures or something dumb and wouldnt have nothing to show for it.. My car is paid for and its all been done by me, thats priceless..
Amen to that. After I get the motor done I'm in teh process of working on, there won't be a single part of the driveline that's stock, from the lid to the rear tires. shocks are done, and over the winter, I plan to cage my car, and as much weight reduction as I can afford, seats, k member, a arms, brakes, abs/tcs/cruise/radio/heat/ac/doorbar delete, and anythign else I can find. Hopefully this year once the motor is done I should be able to run 10.70, maybe a little quicker on motor, next year once the car's down to a reasonable raceweight, car should be able to see 10.40 or better, and will be trailered to the track...... the following winter, the engine will come out and get refreshened, and while it's out, a painless harness will go in, all the guages will get replaced in teh dash with autometer, a LW hood will go on and the whole car will get painted as well, and the modification needed to fit a 28 inch tire will also be done.
Oh, and some nitrous will probably find it's way on the car too... and I'll be gettign a nhra lic. at that point.
Hopefully, when it's done, it will be a show quailty car that can run a 10.50 index on motor, and on the bottle click off mid 9 second passes.
One step at a time though... one step at a time. This year, the car will be dropping nearly 2 seconds off what it ran last year, so that alone, I'd say was a good step foreward.
Oh, and some nitrous will probably find it's way on the car too... and I'll be gettign a nhra lic. at that point.
Hopefully, when it's done, it will be a show quailty car that can run a 10.50 index on motor, and on the bottle click off mid 9 second passes.
One step at a time though... one step at a time. This year, the car will be dropping nearly 2 seconds off what it ran last year, so that alone, I'd say was a good step foreward.