Quick instant center question
If you use the bottom most holes, you are shortening the bar's length.
All be it a small/nominal amount of adjustment(aprox. 6' vertically top to bottom worth of adjustment)but it will change IC to a degree. To what degree/amount it changes could be figured w/some math which I have not done.
I do know from personal experience w/this bar and trying different mounting locations that it seems to hit the tire harder at any given rpm using the top mounting holes, and conversly will try to raise the front end harder at any given rpm when using the same shock settings on the lowest mounting hole..... again..... FWIW-
the same two things keep me scratchin' my nuts.
Why does the car undoubtedly react differently betweeen the two settings? It will hit the tire hard enough to blow them off up high, and can actually see/feel the difference in front end lift on the lowest point?
And.... why would BMR put the adustability in the mount on a floater bar if it didn't change the way the chassis reacted to the hit?
Not arguing.... just trying to get a better grip(No pun intended
) Daren
the same two things keep me scratchin' my nuts.
Why does the car undoubtedly react differently betweeen the two settings? It will hit the tire hard enough to blow them off up high, and can actually see/feel the difference in front end lift on the lowest point?
And.... why would BMR put the adustability in the mount on a floater bar if it didn't change the way the chassis reacted to the hit?
Not arguing.... just trying to get a better grip(No pun intended
)If you were changing the IC, all the way down would make the car squat, and all the way up give it anti-squat (seperation). Only reason I can see to make it adjustable is to adjust pinion angle with a non-adjustable torque arm. There may be something going on that I'm not aware of, but once you understand how any suspension works it kinda makes sense. I'm no expert though, just lucky


