I'm a newbie myself when it comes to a M6, but have 3 or 4 trips to various tracks. Here are my thoughts on how to drag race for new racers or those who have not ever raced a M6. I hope some one can comment on my observations here and add to or correct anything I have written. Anyway, here are my opinions.

1. Tires are crucial to a good 60', aka Eagle F1s suck! If I lower the tire pressure to 22-23 my 60's improve to 2.11s but my MPH at the 1/4 suffer by 3-4 MPH. I happen to believe 26-28 is the best for my car. I also think tires harden over time, thus less traction.

2. Track prep is everything. I had a great launch at SAR but missed third, my car only had a lid and the car I was beating got a 13.7. The track was freshly preped due to a oil leak right before my run. I expected to spin a bit but it dead hooked, unfortunately, for some reason, the slip from that run did not show a 60 time for me.

3. Get a shift light. Listening to the sound of your engine to shift just does not cut it. If you're like me your not watching your tach your watching the track. Also, if your next to a Pro car good luck hearing anything. I think I'm shifting way to soon.

4. Learn and understand how to launch correctly. I'm still working on this. I do know launching from idle does not work. The reason is you need to try to keep your RRMs high to stay in a higher power band. Apparently, the time (due to lack of power) it takes from idle to 1500 -1700 RPMs is enough to kill your 60' and your run. I at first thought why launch at 1500 when all you will do is spin through the 60', so I tried it at idle with zero improvement. So, to fix this I guess there are two techniques. The first is to slip the clutch. I have not mastered this yet. I hate the idea of sliping (frying) the clutch, but many seem to have the best luck with this approach. The other technique seems to be releasing your clutch as quick as possible and then hitting the accelerator hard as soon as you are rolling. Some call this "rolling into it". I have not tried this method yet. I guess I've been using the slip the clutch method but at 1000 rpm thus not abusing the clutch too bad.

5. Granny shifting may not cut it. Sure you don't risk missing a gear, but I think your times will suffer by as much as .2 sec.

6. Get in the groove and line up properly. All tracks seem to have a groove, get into it to where your rear tires will be right in the middle. Also, make sure you line up square. Try to just barely trip the second staging light. The timer is not activated until you break another light (I have no clue what its called, it may be the light that tells you you have staged too far) so being back further allows some time to slip the clutch or roll into it.

7. Relax and don't get nervious. Everyone has to learn, even at 45yo like me. If your relaxed there is less thance of missing a gear. Accept that your car may break, it's part of racing.

8. Watch your weight. They say every 100 lbs knocks a .1 off your 1/4 time. So if you have leather seats, 12 CD player, LCAs, SFCs and Fuel. I have to think that the extr weight of fuel is not woth the added weight in the rear. Also, if your a fat boy like me, don't expect to beat a 112 lb kid given all things being the same.

 

No comments? I must have left something out!

 

In order of decreasing importance, the main factors that contribute to a low elapsed time are: the car, the driver, the track. If the car is considered a given, a good driver will have lower ETs on a poor track than a beginner on the best track. Track conditions are more important for experienced drivers than for beginners but never as important as the car or driver.

 

Ill comment on your get in the grove thing.

I was talking to some guys at the track tonight and this may just be for this paticular track but they told me to line up a bit just outside the grove and you will hook better.

 

I agree with getting a shift light, but not because I am not looking at the tach. When I race I am looking back and forth out the windshield as well as the tach. Its more so because of the factory tach not being exactly accurate as the RPM's rise quickly.

 

Nice helpful post.

I read that Evan Smith launches from 2200rpm slipping the clutch to achieve the 12.8 passes he is notorious for running.

Keep this in mind I guess.

 

I would agree on the need for a shiftlight. Simple to install and allows you to keep your eyes on the track the whole time. I prefer the AutoMeter QuickLite personally, mounted on the steering column.

 

blah,blah,blah....i got so tired i could'nt finish readind all that. newbies,get a 12bolt a good clutch and some slicks. dump the clutch at 5,000rpm's and hold on. if you want the best out of a m6 this is a must. goodluck to ya.

 

amen

life was so much easier when i could just let it rip from 7k and hold on, lol


on topic tho, i dont need a shift light, i have one but i do just fine without it, car is plenty loud and ive gone down the track with it enough times to where i can shift within 100rpm without it but if your car is quiet and you need a tach dont rely on the stock pos

 

Learn how to clutch slip or spin the tires. Point is keep the RPM's up, If you bog you lose. That is the most important thing I have learned in racing my M6.

Josh

 

Helpful information

 

So how do you launch a cammed car with stock tires, clutch and rear-end ?

I was adviced by some shop owners to just dup the clutch at 3000 rpms. Tires will probably spin a bit, but it's the best option.

I was also told, that rear-end is gonna be fine, as long as I don't put slicks....

 

Well my my my. . . we have Greg Anderson junior in the thread kids!!
If you get so tired, you should go lay down and take a nap there spanky.

Not all of the members here are veteran drag racers, and might not have the money for a 12 bolt and slicks just yet. I don't post a lot, but if I can't contribute something constructive, I just stay out of a thread.

Besides, if you're gonna spend your hard earned money, get a 9" for around the same money, they're a lot stronger.

 

When I had the stock rear, clutch and ran on street tires I would launch @ 1400. The best I ever did was a 2.0 60'

 

I did a 1.73 on BFG DR's and a 10 bolt last week.... gotta love running after the 9 inch tire boys!!!

 

I can't believe nobody has mentioned getting a good short-throw shifter, like a Pro 5.0 or a B&M ripper-it'll help ya bang thru the gears quicker

 

I lost a clutch first trip out on the BFG's and next trip twisted an axle.
This saturday will be my first time back since a 9", MT slicks, and a 125shot.
I bet I'll be rebuilding a T-56 or looking for a new drive shaft after this weekend.

 

I got the Pro 5.0, I guess its a given.

 

I can not agree with the "F1's suck", I average 1.9 with my "F1's".

Now if you are refering to runflats, yes they are traction challanged. Remember there are a few different models to the F1's I myself have F1GSD3's and very happy considering they are street tires.

 

I've heard some good things about the F1GSD3's, but never did any research on them. Are they OEM? Do they act like OEM F1s during a launch? What Psi did you run?