Need help with my 60'
Need help with my 60' Ok I have been pulling high 1.6's but can't seem to get them down and it's starting to frustrate me. My setup consists of Hal Qa1's all the way around the rears being dual adjustable and the fronts single. I have a sphon torque arm set at -2 pinion angle. I have SFC's LCA and LCA relocation brackets. I am running a 9inch rear with 3.73 gears with a spool. It is a six speed car with a spec stage 5 clutch. I am putting down around 590rwhp and I am leaving the hole between 5K and 6K with the 2 step. Tire pressure is about 12lbs cold and 14lbs hot. My tire combo is 15X4 in the front and 15X10 in the rear running M/T ET Streets 26X15X11.5. I will try to post up a video and let you see a run. I am really new at this so any advice would be great. If you need more info from me please ask. I am not slipping the clutch at all on take off. The spec clutch doesn't like it to well. Someone told me I need 28inch tall tires??? I don't know at this point but I would definitly like to run some low 1.5's or lower if possible.
TIA
Mike
TIA
Mike
I have the stock rear sway bar, and I did forget to mention that the front sway bar is removed. Also the front shocks are set at 1 and the rebound on the rear is set at 10 and the compression is at 2. I have thought about a bigger rear sway bar but didn't know if it would actually help. What is to low on tire pressure for the rear anyway or is there such a thing?
Here is the Video of my best run. I had a 60' of 1.67. I am leaving off the two step at 5200rpm.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...88408499429968
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...88408499429968
It looked like you spun pretty good, so a 28" tire would definaltley help. Being that it's a M6, you should probably go up to ET drags. Dumping the clutch shocks the tires pretty hard.
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Well what I noticed and maybe it may not have that much of a affect is the track prep. After the initial hit I noticed that the starting line is down to the concrete. You can see the white. So there is not VHT for the tire to grip on. 2nd, Try to lower the psi to say 10lbs cold. Should be around 12lbs after your burnout. What setting are you front Hals on? -Mark
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by Bitemark46
Well what I noticed and maybe it may not have that much of a affect is the track prep. After the initial hit I noticed that the starting line is down to the concrete. You can see the white. So there is not VHT for the tire to grip on. 2nd, Try to lower the psi to say 10lbs cold. Should be around 12lbs after your burnout. What setting are you front Hals on? -Mark
Yeah I know it is very frustrating. I guess it is just the intital shock. I was also talking to someone the other day and they said that since I have a turbo car that maybe I need a set of 3.50 gears??
You did say you have a turbo car. What is the boost when you stage?
With a stick you need to set up your timing to be highly retearded when you are staging the car. It will help you build boost. When you leave all the timing comes back. When I was racing GN"s we would leave off the parking brake and the service brake just to hold the car to make more boost. It was the difference between a pig and a rocket.
With a stick you need to set up your timing to be highly retearded when you are staging the car. It will help you build boost. When you leave all the timing comes back. When I was racing GN"s we would leave off the parking brake and the service brake just to hold the car to make more boost. It was the difference between a pig and a rocket.
Originally Posted by STOCK1090
You did say you have a turbo car. What is the boost when you stage?
With a stick you need to set up your timing to be highly retearded when you are staging the car. It will help you build boost. When you leave all the timing comes back. When I was racing GN"s we would leave off the parking brake and the service brake just to hold the car to make more boost. It was the difference between a pig and a rocket.
With a stick you need to set up your timing to be highly retearded when you are staging the car. It will help you build boost. When you leave all the timing comes back. When I was racing GN"s we would leave off the parking brake and the service brake just to hold the car to make more boost. It was the difference between a pig and a rocket.
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Mike, I'd first go to 28" tall tires as has been suggested, which will help take up the initial shock and will help with wheel spin. Bob
Whats your race weight?
1. 28" tires for sure.
2. Drag sway bar will help alot too.
3. Your compression is at 2 and your rebound at 10? That is backwards unless a stick shift car is set up different than an automatic car? Don't know.
This is how I started:
I would stiffen the compression to 1/2 way on the total adjustment and loosen the rebound to 1/2 of the total adjustment and start there. Double adjustable shocks up front will help too. You can set the rebound loose and the compression stiffer for nice landings.
BTW I have around the same or less RWHP than you do. 700 at the flywheel is all I got.
I have AFCO DA's front and rear. The settings are from 1 to 8. I hear the strange and Hals are good too. I'm not trying to sell AFCO's just telling you what I have.
Here is how mine are set for the track and track conditions I have now.
Rear compression 5
Rear rebound less than 1/3 from all the way loose. (mine adjust with an allen wrench).
Front compression 6
Front rebound 1/4 turn from all the way loose.
The AFCO rebound settings have 1.5 full turns from loose to stiff so that will give you an idea of where I am.
What I am saying is with your rebound (seperation) at 10 when you launch your not letting the rear end plant the tires. It is seperating tooo slow. When the body seperates from the rear end it plants the tires.
Then with your compression set at 2 your not letting the rear end to come back together slowly therefore keeping your tires planted after seperation. Yours is coming back to the original position too fast.
Your seperation is too slow and your compression is too soft.
Just my opinion. All cars like different stuff so this is what I do. Works for me. I am learning from the best. Maybe the best will chime in. Good luck.
1. 28" tires for sure.
2. Drag sway bar will help alot too.
3. Your compression is at 2 and your rebound at 10? That is backwards unless a stick shift car is set up different than an automatic car? Don't know.
This is how I started:
I would stiffen the compression to 1/2 way on the total adjustment and loosen the rebound to 1/2 of the total adjustment and start there. Double adjustable shocks up front will help too. You can set the rebound loose and the compression stiffer for nice landings.
BTW I have around the same or less RWHP than you do. 700 at the flywheel is all I got.
I have AFCO DA's front and rear. The settings are from 1 to 8. I hear the strange and Hals are good too. I'm not trying to sell AFCO's just telling you what I have.
Here is how mine are set for the track and track conditions I have now.
Rear compression 5
Rear rebound less than 1/3 from all the way loose. (mine adjust with an allen wrench).
Front compression 6
Front rebound 1/4 turn from all the way loose.
The AFCO rebound settings have 1.5 full turns from loose to stiff so that will give you an idea of where I am.
What I am saying is with your rebound (seperation) at 10 when you launch your not letting the rear end plant the tires. It is seperating tooo slow. When the body seperates from the rear end it plants the tires.
Then with your compression set at 2 your not letting the rear end to come back together slowly therefore keeping your tires planted after seperation. Yours is coming back to the original position too fast.
Your seperation is too slow and your compression is too soft.
Just my opinion. All cars like different stuff so this is what I do. Works for me. I am learning from the best. Maybe the best will chime in. Good luck.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; Oct 11, 2006 at 06:38 PM.
Holy **** TOM I couldnt have said it better.
Originally Posted by MADMAN
Holy **** TOM I couldnt have said it better.
I also read AFCO's shock tech about 20 times.