?? Wheels studs ??
?? Wheels studs ?? When did you guys step up to 5/8's wheel studs?
I'm planning on having the rear narrowed soon and am thinking about stepping up to the 5/8's stud, but is it need? As of now the 1/2 extended studs are fine. Should be cutting 1.2-1.3 60's next season.
I'm planning on having the rear narrowed soon and am thinking about stepping up to the 5/8's stud, but is it need? As of now the 1/2 extended studs are fine. Should be cutting 1.2-1.3 60's next season.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
I ran 8.50 with the wilwood 1/2" studs that came with the kit, and have buddies running hi 7's, never seen or heard of any problems. I have the 5/8" th on my Pro-Modified, and my back half car, you can never be too safe, cheap insurance, I would recommend it, bolts don't last forever. Have fun & good luck with your project.
I broke whatever studs Moser sends stock on theit 12-bolts with only ~500 rwhp, and my wheel fell off! Upgraded to the 5/8 after that and never looked back. Cheap insurance like everyone said.
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I ran the 1/2 studs all last year and half of this year, switched to 5/8 mostly because I needed different lug nuts for the two different rear wheels I switch between and I kept losing them. That and I seen someone selling a new set of 5/8 studs for 1/2 price lol. Ii have gone low 8s on 1/2" studs in fairly heavy cars, but a little extra in that area never hurts and it doesnt cost a lot. When I ordered my rear I had moser drill/tap both 1/2" and 5/8" holes, only costs a few bucks..
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What needs to be done to get 5/8 inch studs on the rear? been thinking about that one... after seeing a video of a car break the studs about 200 feet out and the end result.. it wasn't pretty. Do the axles have to be replaced, or can you have them done? My bogarts will accept 5/8 I do believe... but guys that have done this, are there any options for street rims that will work, or am I getting another set of rear bogarts and putting a drag radial on them for the occasional cruise night?
You can either get another set of 5/8 holes drilled and tapped in you axles or have the existing holes opened up. It has to be done accurately or they wont work well since the shoulder of the 5/8 stud is what the wheel fits over. Bogarts, welds and any wheel that uses a shank style lug (.690 hole or whatever they are) will work but stock type cone seat wheels will not.
I have gone very quick on 1/2 and even 7/16 studs though, while they look cool 5/8 studs are not recomended for street use and they make that pretty clear. Why exactly I dont know. But if you keep your wheels torqued properly with a torque wrench then most likely you will have a long and happy life with 1/2" studs. Welds are very good at loosening up and I can usually wager if there is a wheel coming off at the starting line its usually a draglite/prostar or rodlite. They will constantly loosen up until the washer finally gets flattened and the wheel sets. Overtighteneing is just as bad, all you have to do is stretch the threads a teeny bit and you have a lot of great places for cracks to start..
I have gone very quick on 1/2 and even 7/16 studs though, while they look cool 5/8 studs are not recomended for street use and they make that pretty clear. Why exactly I dont know. But if you keep your wheels torqued properly with a torque wrench then most likely you will have a long and happy life with 1/2" studs. Welds are very good at loosening up and I can usually wager if there is a wheel coming off at the starting line its usually a draglite/prostar or rodlite. They will constantly loosen up until the washer finally gets flattened and the wheel sets. Overtighteneing is just as bad, all you have to do is stretch the threads a teeny bit and you have a lot of great places for cracks to start..
Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
I ran 8.50 with the wilwood 1/2" studs that came with the kit, and have buddies running hi 7's, never seen or heard of any problems. I have the 5/8" th on my Pro-Modified, and my back half car, you can never be too safe, cheap insurance, I would recommend it, bolts don't last forever. Have fun & good luck with your project.
Originally Posted by kp
You can either get another set of 5/8 holes drilled and tapped in you axles or have the existing holes opened up. It has to be done accurately or they wont work well since the shoulder of the 5/8 stud is what the wheel fits over. Bogarts, welds and any wheel that uses a shank style lug (.690 hole or whatever they are) will work but stock type cone seat wheels will not.
I have gone very quick on 1/2 and even 7/16 studs though, while they look cool 5/8 studs are not recomended for street use and they make that pretty clear. Why exactly I dont know. But if you keep your wheels torqued properly with a torque wrench then most likely you will have a long and happy life with 1/2" studs. Welds are very good at loosening up and I can usually wager if there is a wheel coming off at the starting line its usually a draglite/prostar or rodlite. They will constantly loosen up until the washer finally gets flattened and the wheel sets. Overtighteneing is just as bad, all you have to do is stretch the threads a teeny bit and you have a lot of great places for cracks to start..
I have gone very quick on 1/2 and even 7/16 studs though, while they look cool 5/8 studs are not recomended for street use and they make that pretty clear. Why exactly I dont know. But if you keep your wheels torqued properly with a torque wrench then most likely you will have a long and happy life with 1/2" studs. Welds are very good at loosening up and I can usually wager if there is a wheel coming off at the starting line its usually a draglite/prostar or rodlite. They will constantly loosen up until the washer finally gets flattened and the wheel sets. Overtighteneing is just as bad, all you have to do is stretch the threads a teeny bit and you have a lot of great places for cracks to start..
I'd like to hear more about the 5/8 stud, and why it's not a good idea to street drive on them.. I can't see how they could be weaker or anything
I doubt they are weaker, it just says all over the box 'not for street use.'
Most likely just a standard 'if these break and you die on the street its not our problem' disclaimer. Maybe they are afraid someone will put them on a everyday street car and the nuts will rust on - who knows.
Stock is 12mm which is close to 1/2" Nothing wrong with overdoing wheel studs, one of the crappiest things to do at the track is lose a wheel on the starting line..
Even though I remember seing a front wheel come off a fox stang when it was rolling through pits, he slowed down and the right front wheel/tire kept right on going lol. He had spacers and like two threads of the lugs were engaged..
Most likely just a standard 'if these break and you die on the street its not our problem' disclaimer. Maybe they are afraid someone will put them on a everyday street car and the nuts will rust on - who knows.
Stock is 12mm which is close to 1/2" Nothing wrong with overdoing wheel studs, one of the crappiest things to do at the track is lose a wheel on the starting line..
Even though I remember seing a front wheel come off a fox stang when it was rolling through pits, he slowed down and the right front wheel/tire kept right on going lol. He had spacers and like two threads of the lugs were engaged..
mine aren't that short LOL, I'[ve got long shank style bolts on the studs.... I just knwo they are supposed to stick out XXX amount that's all.
You're probably right on the 5/8 thign and the disclaimer..... I'd trust that 5/8 stud before trusting a stock one... but that's me.
You're probably right on the 5/8 thign and the disclaimer..... I'd trust that 5/8 stud before trusting a stock one... but that's me.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'd like to hear more about the 5/8 stud, and why it's not a good idea to street drive on them.. I can't see how they could be weaker or anything
Last edited by SPEEDYws6; Oct 16, 2006 at 10:09 PM.
I think the rust idea is exactly it.
Before I started running my closed lugs on them I actually had a lug rust on one. Sheared it right off. Since closing the lugs I haven't seen a problem, though
Before I started running my closed lugs on them I actually had a lug rust on one. Sheared it right off. Since closing the lugs I haven't seen a problem, though
the lugs on my 12 bolt got some rust on them over the winter.. at the end of them where they were exposed with the stock wheels on the car... I didn't think much of it, because it was the last 1/8th of an inch. The rest of the lug was o.k.
Now I'm definately putting the big boys in over the winter.
Now I'm definately putting the big boys in over the winter.
