When did you guys step up to 5/8's wheel studs?

I'm planning on having the rear narrowed soon and am thinking about stepping up to the 5/8's stud, but is it need? As of now the 1/2 extended studs are fine. Should be cutting 1.2-1.3 60's next season.

 

Kyle's car sheared his studs, so if your near his power levels Id say yeah... But Ive been told that 1/2"-20 studs are good well into the 9's.

 

I ran 8.50 with the wilwood 1/2" studs that came with the kit, and have buddies running hi 7's, never seen or heard of any problems. I have the 5/8" th on my Pro-Modified, and my back half car, you can never be too safe, cheap insurance, I would recommend it, bolts don't last forever. Have fun & good luck with your project.

 

I twisted off my 1/2 studs, so I upgraded. My car seems to break alot of things it shouldn't at it's power level though.

 

I upgraded when I built my 9"

figured it was cheap insurance

 

I broke whatever studs Moser sends stock on theit 12-bolts with only ~500 rwhp, and my wheel fell off! Upgraded to the 5/8 after that and never looked back. Cheap insurance like everyone said.

 

Thanx all, I'll be going to the 5/8's stud. If nothing else it's insurance.

 

I ran the 1/2 studs all last year and half of this year, switched to 5/8 mostly because I needed different lug nuts for the two different rear wheels I switch between and I kept losing them. That and I seen someone selling a new set of 5/8 studs for 1/2 price lol. Ii have gone low 8s on 1/2" studs in fairly heavy cars, but a little extra in that area never hurts and it doesnt cost a lot. When I ordered my rear I had moser drill/tap both 1/2" and 5/8" holes, only costs a few bucks..

 

Dang thats a good idea kp

 

What needs to be done to get 5/8 inch studs on the rear? been thinking about that one... after seeing a video of a car break the studs about 200 feet out and the end result.. it wasn't pretty. Do the axles have to be replaced, or can you have them done? My bogarts will accept 5/8 I do believe... but guys that have done this, are there any options for street rims that will work, or am I getting another set of rear bogarts and putting a drag radial on them for the occasional cruise night?

 

You can either get another set of 5/8 holes drilled and tapped in you axles or have the existing holes opened up. It has to be done accurately or they wont work well since the shoulder of the 5/8 stud is what the wheel fits over. Bogarts, welds and any wheel that uses a shank style lug (.690 hole or whatever they are) will work but stock type cone seat wheels will not.

I have gone very quick on 1/2 and even 7/16 studs though, while they look cool 5/8 studs are not recomended for street use and they make that pretty clear. Why exactly I dont know. But if you keep your wheels torqued properly with a torque wrench then most likely you will have a long and happy life with 1/2" studs. Welds are very good at loosening up and I can usually wager if there is a wheel coming off at the starting line its usually a draglite/prostar or rodlite. They will constantly loosen up until the washer finally gets flattened and the wheel sets. Overtighteneing is just as bad, all you have to do is stretch the threads a teeny bit and you have a lot of great places for cracks to start..

 

i wanna a pro mod car!

 

intresting info.. I wonder why the 5/8 inch studs aren't reccommended. I'm still on stock dia. studs, whatever they are that came on my moser 12 bolt, same thread as stock lug nuts, etc.etc. I want to upgrade them, I need to put longer ones on the front for tech (noone has said anything, but I knwo it needs to be done) and I figured the rears would be a good idea too...my thoughts were to go as big as possible as long as I don't plan to ever run anything other tehna bogart, even if that means getting a 2nd set for the rear so the slicks can stick to track only duty, and just continue with a sportsman fron ttire for the skinny.

I'd like to hear more about the 5/8 stud, and why it's not a good idea to street drive on them.. I can't see how they could be weaker or anything

 

I doubt they are weaker, it just says all over the box 'not for street use.'

Most likely just a standard 'if these break and you die on the street its not our problem' disclaimer. Maybe they are afraid someone will put them on a everyday street car and the nuts will rust on - who knows.

Stock is 12mm which is close to 1/2" Nothing wrong with overdoing wheel studs, one of the crappiest things to do at the track is lose a wheel on the starting line..

Even though I remember seing a front wheel come off a fox stang when it was rolling through pits, he slowed down and the right front wheel/tire kept right on going lol. He had spacers and like two threads of the lugs were engaged..

 

mine aren't that short LOL, I'[ve got long shank style bolts on the studs.... I just knwo they are supposed to stick out XXX amount that's all.

You're probably right on the 5/8 thign and the disclaimer..... I'd trust that 5/8 stud before trusting a stock one... but that's me.

 

I street drive on mine, and I made it pretty clear that I would when I ordered them from Billingsley and they said nothing to me against it.

 

pretty much what I would expect.

 

I think the rust idea is exactly it.

Before I started running my closed lugs on them I actually had a lug rust on one. Sheared it right off. Since closing the lugs I haven't seen a problem, though

 

the lugs on my 12 bolt got some rust on them over the winter.. at the end of them where they were exposed with the stock wheels on the car... I didn't think much of it, because it was the last 1/8th of an inch. The rest of the lug was o.k.

Now I'm definately putting the big boys in over the winter.