Have a set of prostars? Check this out...
10-18-2006, 01:28 PM
#21
Still says street legal on the wheel so it had to pass some sort of testing since they went out of their way to put it there, I have seen way more 'DOT' pot metal POS chinese Z06 wheels break then prostars 
The fronts (4") I have say not street legal.
If tires have a DOT number they are street legal, if they are below min tread depth they are not. Its pretty much a no contest case in court - been there.
Everything aftermarket on these cars you will buy pretty much says 'not intended for street use' so take it as you will. Common sense should prevail over what the box or wheel says on it. And common sense is if one of your wheels falls apart take the rest off.
Dont get so excited, its the internet where if you say something right no one says a word but God help you if you say something wrong
The fronts (4") I have say not street legal.
If tires have a DOT number they are street legal, if they are below min tread depth they are not. Its pretty much a no contest case in court - been there.
Everything aftermarket on these cars you will buy pretty much says 'not intended for street use' so take it as you will. Common sense should prevail over what the box or wheel says on it. And common sense is if one of your wheels falls apart take the rest off.
Dont get so excited, its the internet where if you say something right no one says a word but God help you if you say something wrong
Originally Posted by CrawlinWS6
Okay here we go again. There is a difference between STREET LEGAL and NOT INTENDED FOR STREET USE! A friend of mine got bust driving et steets on the street and got a ticket for illegal tires, "but it says it is dot approved".
I had bought 6 prostar wheels from weld (2) 15x3.5 and (4) 15X10. On every box they came in, it said and I repeat "NOT INTENDED FOR STREET USE" They are not built with the durability for daily driving street use. The constent heating up and cooling of the wheel, effects the wheel and can cause damage like viewed in this forum. It has happened to bogarts as well. I drove on the street with prostars. I drove with 3.5 in the front and had 2 sets of 10inch on the rears (street and a strip set). I drove on 200mile road trips with them. But my car is no where near a DD. These wheel are not built with the integrity (sp?) that a NONdrag wheel is made with. The weather, road conditions, and heat are a back breaker for these wheels!
I had bought 6 prostar wheels from weld (2) 15x3.5 and (4) 15X10. On every box they came in, it said and I repeat "NOT INTENDED FOR STREET USE" They are not built with the durability for daily driving street use. The constent heating up and cooling of the wheel, effects the wheel and can cause damage like viewed in this forum. It has happened to bogarts as well. I drove on the street with prostars. I drove with 3.5 in the front and had 2 sets of 10inch on the rears (street and a strip set). I drove on 200mile road trips with them. But my car is no where near a DD. These wheel are not built with the integrity (sp?) that a NONdrag wheel is made with. The weather, road conditions, and heat are a back breaker for these wheels!
10-18-2006, 02:04 PM
#22
Regardless, if you have prostars, check em every once and a while for cracks...that was the reason for this post. I have prostars and never really check em at all, they have plenty of street time on em as well. I will check em from here on out everytime I pull them out of the garage.
J
J
10-18-2006, 02:15 PM
#23
Mine did this also!! (15x 8's) two had cracked in less than 500 miles on them they got sent back to weld and I was told they lost both 
and could not give me an answer!
so I was out both rims, tires, and a tow bill for 300 bucks and motel as I was on the road, also had to buy tires and rims to get home.
and could not give me an answer!so I was out both rims, tires, and a tow bill for 300 bucks and motel as I was on the road, also had to buy tires and rims to get home.
10-18-2006, 04:47 PM
#25
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iTrader: (34)
I've heard of this happening with Welds like three times in the last 8 years including that guy's truck, it's very rare.
The way they were breaking is weird, might also be an issue specific to his truck and setup.
The way they were breaking is weird, might also be an issue specific to his truck and setup.
10-18-2006, 07:27 PM
#27
Stud length is fine, I never understood why guys got all worked up about studs. The shank of the lug nut will extend the depth of the wheel, long *** studs aren't required.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
10-18-2006, 08:48 PM
#29
Originally Posted by frcefed98
http://2loose.chevytalk-supporter.org/weldrims.html
I'm going to be keeping a close eye on mine from now until I hit the lottery, then its a set of bogarts for me.
J
I'm going to be keeping a close eye on mine from now until I hit the lottery, then its a set of bogarts for me.
J
10-18-2006, 09:46 PM
#30
Originally Posted by TS6
Stud length is fine, I never understood why guys got all worked up about studs. The shank of the lug nut will extend the depth of the wheel, long *** studs aren't required.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
Not many people actually buy lugs with shanks that extend the depth of the wheel... The lug shank used in picture is defanitly not long enough to grab more than 2 threads of that stud.
10-19-2006, 02:49 AM
#31
Originally Posted by TS6
Stud length is fine, I never understood why guys got all worked up about studs. The shank of the lug nut will extend the depth of the wheel, long *** studs aren't required.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
I'm with Kevin on this one, and I bet money the problem isn't with the wheels, its his fault. Lots of people over torque welds, and mis use them. The way his failed he had to have done something wrong.
I never said the guy did anything wrong on install, he put a set of wheels on his truck and one broke. Then he put another one on and kept driving, thats what he did wrong IMO. But there are countless bigass cars and pickups running around out there with prostars for years without issue, so either its just plain bad material/defect or they are just way overloaded. I cant see the lugs coming loose doing that but who knows, I think the wheels would have fell off since there was only a couple threads holding them on
10-19-2006, 09:40 AM
#32
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Actually, that's pretty in-line with a question I was going to ask on here...
I ordered a set of McGard lugs for my Prostars since I popped a few front studs and needed to replace my Weld (aka rustbucket) lugs. Well, the thread is only in the shank part. My Weld lugs had threads that went all the way into the hex, but the McGard's only have threads in the lower part of the shank. I know lots of guys are using them, but to fit these I have to cut down my rear studs (they're 1/2 x long haha)
I ordered a set of McGard lugs for my Prostars since I popped a few front studs and needed to replace my Weld (aka rustbucket) lugs. Well, the thread is only in the shank part. My Weld lugs had threads that went all the way into the hex, but the McGard's only have threads in the lower part of the shank. I know lots of guys are using them, but to fit these I have to cut down my rear studs (they're 1/2 x long haha)
10-19-2006, 12:21 PM
#33
Originally Posted by CamTom12
Actually, that's pretty in-line with a question I was going to ask on here...
I ordered a set of McGard lugs for my Prostars since I popped a few front studs and needed to replace my Weld (aka rustbucket) lugs. Well, the thread is only in the shank part. My Weld lugs had threads that went all the way into the hex, but the McGard's only have threads in the lower part of the shank. I know lots of guys are using them, but to fit these I have to cut down my rear studs (they're 1/2 x long haha)
I ordered a set of McGard lugs for my Prostars since I popped a few front studs and needed to replace my Weld (aka rustbucket) lugs. Well, the thread is only in the shank part. My Weld lugs had threads that went all the way into the hex, but the McGard's only have threads in the lower part of the shank. I know lots of guys are using them, but to fit these I have to cut down my rear studs (they're 1/2 x long haha)
I have personally never seen a lug break by the hex, but the reason the NHRA rule is there seems valid.
As far as finding a set of closed lugs that are threaded all the way in the hex and the chrome doesnt peel off in a week good luck
You can run open lugs and put the little plastic caps on them to keep the water out if the studs dont poke through.
10-20-2006, 05:03 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Speed Density
I wonder what Weld will do? Seeing how there out of buisness....
Tony.
Tony.
10-20-2006, 08:45 AM
#36
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Well, sort of. Weld proper filed bankruptcy and (I think) American Racing bought them up. Summit and Jegs are still selling Weld wheels and talking about new orders for them, so they seem to still be producing, which is good.
