Kill Switch Rule??
I'd agree with that.. NHRA is WAY out of control. I mean some stuff is a good idea.. but I'm looking at what I will have to do because I now have a high 10 second, potentially mid to low 10 second car on motor, and I'm sure a single digit car once I put the juice to it... and it's kinda nuts... especially when you look at it like this: A new Z06 vette with minor boltons and drag radials runs in the high to mid 10 second range! I just can't see where a stock factory car, with an exhaust and a set of tires that can run 10's should have to have a rollbar... just seems a little out of control to me.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 835
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From: aiken ,sc
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'd agree with that.. NHRA is WAY out of control. I mean some stuff is a good idea.. but I'm looking at what I will have to do because I now have a high 10 second, potentially mid to low 10 second car on motor, and I'm sure a single digit car once I put the juice to it... and it's kinda nuts... especially when you look at it like this: A new Z06 vette with minor boltons and drag radials runs in the high to mid 10 second range! I just can't see where a stock factory car, with an exhaust and a set of tires that can run 10's should have to have a rollbar... just seems a little out of control to me.
dont forget as bad as NHRA is they see all the wrecks out there and are trying to keep everyone safe,have you ever seen a 10 sec car roll up on the wall in the first 200 feet, its not pretty,esp if it goes on the wall ,and it does happen, i have picts of a 69 that rolled 3 times on the concrete wall,[and it was" only" a 10.50 car] and id did it in the first 300 feet, and it was destoyed, but it had a cage and the driver was able to walk away,but the car was a total wreck,wierd things happen and thay see it and try to base the rules on the unexpexted things that happen,do you really want to go in the nines in a car with a piece of thin steel glued to a T Top structure, [if you have an F body] as they all start out life as ttop cars. it is just to keep us all safe dispite ourselves. bob
NO I understand the reason that the rules exist, and I do understand that things can happen.. I've seen a couple ugly moments at drag strips over the years... and I'd hate to see that happen to anyone, myself included. I just think that when factory cars, are already fast enough to require a roll bar, and they ren't equipped with it from the factory.. something has to be looked at, wether it's the NHRA rules, or the way the factory builds cars.. I dunno.
I still think putting a 50lb battere in the passenger compartment near the fuel tank in a metal box is dumb lol. Not to mention the mile of cable you now have that can potentially short out and burn down your car quicker then you can yell 'someone get me a fire extinguisher."
Also FWIW the battey needs to be secured to the frame/subframe to be legal. Bolting it to the t-top well floor is NOT legal. Having that battery back there with the fuel tank so close by with everything in the drivers area seems a little unsafe to me
I think a light battery up front with a kill switch in back that will just shut off the main power to the PCM/accessories is good enough and 100x safer and I may go back to that in the future no matter what NHRA says..
Also FWIW the battey needs to be secured to the frame/subframe to be legal. Bolting it to the t-top well floor is NOT legal. Having that battery back there with the fuel tank so close by with everything in the drivers area seems a little unsafe to me
I think a light battery up front with a kill switch in back that will just shut off the main power to the PCM/accessories is good enough and 100x safer and I may go back to that in the future no matter what NHRA says..
KP I agree with what you are saying 100%... IMo it's more of a risk having it back there as far as shorting out and a fire due to that. I'm not doing any of it unti I absolutely have to.
Kyle I'm con concerned about the cage, harnesses, wheel studs, water for coolant, any of that stuff. Not the stuff like a battery shutoff.. that to me seems bogus.
Kyle I'm con concerned about the cage, harnesses, wheel studs, water for coolant, any of that stuff. Not the stuff like a battery shutoff.. that to me seems bogus.
8 second club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 199
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From: Greenwood, IN
I use a switch that has 4 posts so I can run the alternator through the same same switch. Seems to charge fine and it kills the car. Less hassle than wiring a relay.
Last edited by G&HRacing; Nov 22, 2006 at 11:42 AM.
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Originally Posted by G&HRacing
I use a switch that has 4 posts so I can run the alternator through the same same switch. Seems to charge fine and it kills the car. Less hassle than wiring a relay.
Originally Posted by kp
I think a light battery up front with a kill switch in back that will just shut off the main power to the PCM/accessories is good enough and 100x safer and I may go back to that in the future no matter what NHRA says..
It will cut off the primary power feed to the fuel pump as well as the entire IGN circuit.
I'm keeping a small battery up front very far away from me. lol
Magnus a wiring diagram of what you are doing would be great. I'm running a racetronix hotwire kit if that matters... but it would be nice to have a way to put a switch back there so it will kill the car and won't crank over/start for tech purposes.
