racing without an engine belt
11-22-2006, 09:23 AM
#41
Originally Posted by J-Rod
I'd like to see pics of this project before I lend it any credence. Att his point I'm sorry to say it sounds like the wishful thinking of a 14 yr old.
11-22-2006, 12:37 PM
#42
just an idea, and i haven't read the whole thread, but why not run the alternater of the prop?? its dont alot in race cars, basically reduces the the alternator rpm. and means you can **** the weight back in the chasis to! 
thanks Chris.
thanks Chris.
11-22-2006, 12:56 PM
#43
Originally Posted by chuntington101
just an idea, and i haven't read the whole thread, but why not run the alternater of the prop?? its dont alot in race cars, basically reduces the the alternator rpm. and means you can **** the weight back in the chasis to!
thanks Chris.
thanks Chris.
running the alternator off the driveshaft is only effective for specific kinds of race cars (like asphalt circle track for example)
its not the best thing for drag racing, since the majority of the running time is with it not moving (pit tuning, staging lanes, actual staging, ect)..
11-22-2006, 03:24 PM
#44
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
I see in your sig your in Jeddah. You Saudis are insane, so I could see one of you guy building something like that. It'd also explain some of the grammar mistakes.
Anyhow, you see Pro racers making big power on turbo cars using cams with lots of overlap. But, on street cars running a turbo car with a cam with lots of overlap is normally sort of frowned upon. You will have less boost, as the ovelap will blled boost since you are pushing your cylinder charge out on overlap.
Anyhow, you see Pro racers making big power on turbo cars using cams with lots of overlap. But, on street cars running a turbo car with a cam with lots of overlap is normally sort of frowned upon. You will have less boost, as the ovelap will blled boost since you are pushing your cylinder charge out on overlap.
11-22-2006, 04:02 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
I see in your sig your in Jeddah. You Saudis are insane, so I could see one of you guy building something like that. It'd also explain some of the grammar mistakes.
Anyhow, you see Pro racers making big power on turbo cars using cams with lots of overlap. But, on street cars running a turbo car with a cam with lots of overlap is normally sort of frowned upon. You will have less boost, as the ovelap will blled boost since you are pushing your cylinder charge out on overlap.
Anyhow, you see Pro racers making big power on turbo cars using cams with lots of overlap. But, on street cars running a turbo car with a cam with lots of overlap is normally sort of frowned upon. You will have less boost, as the ovelap will blled boost since you are pushing your cylinder charge out on overlap.
As for the belt issue. Most IHRA cars dont run a alt. If your GTO is a track only car bring a battery charger and run without it. If its gonna be driven on the street as well, keep the alt and get a set of underdrive pullys. If you want to get rid of the powersteering junk it and get a manual rack so if you do get into a mess on the track itll be easier to correct. By the looks of your list you have the money to do this right, so dont skip on just removing a belt, set it up right.
11-22-2006, 04:03 PM
#46
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Off topic>
I personally like the set up that someone posted earlier with a Kenne Belle s/c (I forget whether it was 2.3 or 2.8L S/C). It was a 408 hydraulic roller in a Corvette that made over 800RWTQ at about 2500 rpm and over 800RWHP peak. That is an insane combo!
On Topic>
Originally Posted by J-Rod
You Saudis are insane, so I could see one of you guy building something like that.
I personally like the set up that someone posted earlier with a Kenne Belle s/c (I forget whether it was 2.3 or 2.8L S/C). It was a 408 hydraulic roller in a Corvette that made over 800RWTQ at about 2500 rpm and over 800RWHP peak. That is an insane combo!
On Topic>
11-22-2006, 04:09 PM
#47
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
It doesn't matter if the electronics are getting 14 volts of 12 in this case. They were designed for 12 volts.
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
11-23-2006, 06:47 AM
#48
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
Off topic>
I personally like the set up that someone posted earlier with a Kenne Belle s/c (I forget whether it was 2.3 or 2.8L S/C). It was a 408 hydraulic roller in a Corvette that made over 800RWTQ at about 2500 rpm and over 800RWHP peak. That is an insane combo!
On Topic>
I personally like the set up that someone posted earlier with a Kenne Belle s/c (I forget whether it was 2.3 or 2.8L S/C). It was a 408 hydraulic roller in a Corvette that made over 800RWTQ at about 2500 rpm and over 800RWHP peak. That is an insane combo!
On Topic>
thanks Chris.
11-23-2006, 01:16 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by LS1Formulation
If you disconnect your battery while the car is running you'll have a HUGE voltage spike in your alternator and it will probably fry it.
11-23-2006, 09:56 PM
#51
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well on a N/A 5.3 truck by-passing the alt. and power steering pump with a short belt get me 2/10's of a second and a little over 1mph, never tried it without belt, but with an electric water pump your good to go.
I get three passes on truck without putting stock belt back on. Good luck.
I get three passes on truck without putting stock belt back on. Good luck.
11-23-2006, 10:37 PM
#52
If you have anything serious done to the engine, it's not worth the risk of hoping that you also have the injector voltage offsets tuned right...it's one thing to lose an alternator going down the road at low throttle and low airflow and another when you're at full throttle with a TON of air moving into the engine that needs the right amount of fuel cause lean will mean expensive damage.
11-25-2006, 08:47 PM
#54
i dynoed back to back imediatly with and without belt, belt was driving only water pump and alternator, no p/s, i absolutly hate p/s at the track, way to sensitive, i feel much more under control without it. anyway, i gained 15rwhp, and ive yet to see a gain of more than about 5rwhp from a ewp so after i put my ewp on i still did it, i usually trapped better but i only tried it a few times and i guess i was hitting the tires harder since the car wouldnt bogg as easy and id always spin a lil bit, mph was definatly better, if i could have gotten multiple passes back to back and tuned the car for no belt i definalty could have gained some ET
11-25-2006, 09:11 PM
#55
I dunno how much power an alt. alont takes to run.. but with an underdrive pulley and just the alt. running.. I can't imagine it would be much. Not enough to be worth the risk of having an electrical problem that could mess with the fueling, especially with the motor singing along at 6500+ rpm the entire time.
my .02
my .02
11-25-2006, 10:04 PM
#56
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I know I'm the minority here... but for safety sake, leave it on. You're going to feel like a jackass when you're in a wheelchair over this stupid thing. Safety first... it sounds gay, but its the truth. You get one life/spine/brain, GM makes millions of cars. Smash head on into a wall and walk away because some bean counter didn't cheese out on the racecar and you'll understand when i'm coming from.
11-27-2006, 12:22 PM
#57
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let me know how things turn out when you blow the intake apart from the twin turbocharged 300 shot 
due to ONE weak spark. OR you could turn up the boost .1 psi and overcome the losses from the alternator. 
due to ONE weak spark. OR you could turn up the boost .1 psi and overcome the losses from the alternator.
11-27-2006, 01:14 PM
#58
Originally Posted by treyZ28
I know I'm the minority here... but for safety sake, leave it on. You're going to feel like a jackass when you're in a wheelchair over this stupid thing. Safety first... it sounds gay, but its the truth. You get one life/spine/brain, GM makes millions of cars. Smash head on into a wall and walk away because some bean counter didn't cheese out on the racecar and you'll understand when i'm coming from.
11-28-2006, 12:26 PM
#59
Originally Posted by stevewix
let me know how things turn out when you blow the intake apart from the twin turbocharged 300 shot due to ONE weak spark. OR you could turn up the boost .1 psi and overcome the losses from the alternator.
due to ONE weak spark. OR you could turn up the boost .1 psi and overcome the losses from the alternator. Also...arent aftermarket fuel pumps rated while at 14volts? Since thats what they are run at while in the car? So, if you are now running them at 12v, can that mess up the fuel delievery? i dont know how touchy things are with twins and a big shot...but again. Its something I wouldnt want to worry about.
Justin
