Using 4 gauge wire from alternator to kill switch and still havin issues....
12-13-2006, 08:41 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by kp
Just a local starter/alternator rebuild shop, most towns have them 
Cost around 100.00. With the old alternator I could make 3 passes and run the EWP/Fan between rounds and the car would start cranking really slow so I started taking a generator/battery charger with me and would charge it between passes. With the new alternator I can go 8-9 passes, use the EWP in between for 5-10 minutes, and not have to use the generator/charger which is pretty much a whole day of racing no matter what. I just looked at my car and I have 4ga welding cable on the alternator not 2ga.
I also charge the battery before i hit the track with one of those fancy electronic chargers, I have a red top in the car which was a mistake. I should have used a yellow top, that would handle the EWP/cooling fan between rounds better I think.
Cost around 100.00. With the old alternator I could make 3 passes and run the EWP/Fan between rounds and the car would start cranking really slow so I started taking a generator/battery charger with me and would charge it between passes. With the new alternator I can go 8-9 passes, use the EWP in between for 5-10 minutes, and not have to use the generator/charger which is pretty much a whole day of racing no matter what. I just looked at my car and I have 4ga welding cable on the alternator not 2ga.I also charge the battery before i hit the track with one of those fancy electronic chargers, I have a red top in the car which was a mistake. I should have used a yellow top, that would handle the EWP/cooling fan between rounds better I think.
12-13-2006, 08:43 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Bitemark46
No. Because the dist box controls the iginition so to speak, that when the power is cut from there it kills the car. If the alt and the dist box are on the same wire the alt still has a charge and keep the motor still running. The diagram I showed shows that the alt wire and batt wire go to the same terminal. Many cars have followed that diagram that race in NMRA and FFW and they have passed tech with no probs. I have never had any charging probs and it kills off the motor when I flip the kill switch. -Mark
12-13-2006, 08:47 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
Cool, thanks for the info dude, I have a red top as well, but like I said, I got rid of the ewp and put the stock one back on, it actually seems to cool better driving around too and I didn't lose anything. With the ewp I was gettin really hot on trips over 30 minutes on the highway, seein over 225 degrees, now she stays around 210 tops with the stock one on longer trips on the highway (3.73's and 28's with the t400 @ around 3300 - 3500 rpm cruising to meets and stuff).
I use mainly for cooling between rounds on 95 degree days, 10 minutes in the staging lanes and the car is back to 160, cant do that with a stock pump
The street EWP draws a little more current then they claim, as well as this 4303 magnafuel pump. Its nearly 45 amps to run them both, thats a lot of current. The EWP was make or break point with the stock alt though, without it I could go a whole day, mainly because I didnt have the fan/pump running between rounds killing the battery but with the EWP the car would never even go above 13.5 running except when it was cold. Alternator output drops like a stone when they get hot..
12-13-2006, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
The stock pump is better for street driving IMO unless you do a lot of idling, since the EWP is moving water full blast at idle it helps there. But on the highway the stock pump will move more water.
I use mainly for cooling between rounds on 95 degree days, 10 minutes in the staging lanes and the car is back to 160, cant do that with a stock pump
The street EWP draws a little more current then they claim, as well as this 4303 magnafuel pump. Its nearly 45 amps to run them both, thats a lot of current. The EWP was make or break point with the stock alt though, without it I could go a whole day, mainly because I didnt have the fan/pump running between rounds killing the battery but with the EWP the car would never even go above 13.5 running except when it was cold. Alternator output drops like a stone when they get hot..
I use mainly for cooling between rounds on 95 degree days, 10 minutes in the staging lanes and the car is back to 160, cant do that with a stock pump
The street EWP draws a little more current then they claim, as well as this 4303 magnafuel pump. Its nearly 45 amps to run them both, thats a lot of current. The EWP was make or break point with the stock alt though, without it I could go a whole day, mainly because I didnt have the fan/pump running between rounds killing the battery but with the EWP the car would never even go above 13.5 running except when it was cold. Alternator output drops like a stone when they get hot..
12-13-2006, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
The solenoid needs to be on a seperate section of the cutoff switch be it powered or grounded, as long as you do that it will work fine. A ford starter solenoid isnt made to be on all the time though, you can use one of these 'battery isolator' relays though. It will last a lot longer then a regular ford solenoid.
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SR80-HIG...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SR80-HIG...QQcmdZViewItem
Is it legal to using an isolator relay wired to four pole cutoff switch that will interrupt power from the Alt to fuss boxes?
This will take away the need for a long Alt wire to the rear of the car.
By the time the Alt send the power to the back of the car then back up to the front it’s traveling thru some 30 foot of wire.
This will save some weight and more available amp for the car.
What do you all think?
Bob
12-13-2006, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
Its 140 or 145, thats as big as they can go with these size alternators. Some places sell them outright like afterthoughts but no one had one in stock when I wanted one and the local guy had it done in 2 days.
12-13-2006, 03:49 PM
#29
Originally Posted by SlickVert
Is it legal to using an isolator relay wired to four pole cutoff switch that will interrupt power from the Alt to fuss boxes?
This will take away the need for a long Alt wire to the rear of the car.
By the time the Alt send the power to the back of the car then back up to the front it’s traveling thru some 30 foot of wire.
This will save some weight and more available amp for the car.
What do you all think?
Bob
This will take away the need for a long Alt wire to the rear of the car.
By the time the Alt send the power to the back of the car then back up to the front it’s traveling thru some 30 foot of wire.
This will save some weight and more available amp for the car.
What do you all think?
Bob
Using the relay on the alt output would help the charging situation some but if you have more current being drawn then the alternator can produce the battery will die down when drag racing the car..
12-13-2006, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
Its legal if you can shut the car off with the switch on the back, thats all anyone who checked the switch on any of my cars ever looked at.
Using the relay on the alt output would help the charging situation some but if you have more current being drawn then the alternator can produce the battery will die down when drag racing the car..
Using the relay on the alt output would help the charging situation some but if you have more current being drawn then the alternator can produce the battery will die down when drag racing the car..
Thanks,
I agree that if you have more draw then the Alt output, then it will draw on the Bat and/or not charge it.
By installing a relay it will reduce 15 feet of wire(weight and less amps required).
Bob
12-13-2006, 04:21 PM
#31
Originally Posted by SlickVert
Thanks,
I agree that if you have more draw then the Alt output, then it will draw on the Bat and/or not charge it.
By installing a relay it will reduce 15 feet of wire(weight and less amps required).
Bob
I agree that if you have more draw then the Alt output, then it will draw on the Bat and/or not charge it.
By installing a relay it will reduce 15 feet of wire(weight and less amps required).
Bob
I was going to use the relay on the alternator output but I couldnt find the right switch when I was doing the battery relocation but I did have 25' of #4 welding cable
I think its safer also since you dont have an extra large wire going to the battery from the front of the car thats hot all the time, even with the switch off. 
12-25-2006, 08:06 PM
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I'm waitin on the new alternator to come in, I couldn't find a local place that really knew what they were doin or wanted to do it, so I ordered one, it's a 170 amp, they had 130 and 170, so I went with the 170, hopefully that solves the problem when it gets here!
12-27-2006, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by vtec
what do you guys think about running a ford starter solenoid inline with the alternator charge line? when the rear switch is turned off, the solenoid would lose its ground and open the alternators charge line.
i will be doing this on my car.... 1/0 run from the batt. to the front fender, where all the other connections are made. (alt, starter, fusible links)
i am running a single wire alternator. ~100A.
i will be doing this on my car.... 1/0 run from the batt. to the front fender, where all the other connections are made. (alt, starter, fusible links)
i am running a single wire alternator. ~100A.
See the schematic below.
12-27-2006, 04:17 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
I'm waitin on the new alternator to come in, I couldn't find a local place that really knew what they were doin or wanted to do it, so I ordered one, it's a 170 amp, they had 130 and 170, so I went with the 170, hopefully that solves the problem when it gets here!
12-27-2006, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Doofy
Where did you order it from, and how much $ did you have to give up for it.
