My cutoff solution
#1
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When I did battery relocation I too came to realize that once the engine is lit, it is self sustaining through the alternator. Bummer. The prospect of routing the charging circuit all the way back to the switch was not appealing to say the least. I was thinking: when you turn the key back the engine shuts off, what occurs then?
Salvation came when I was scrolling through the wiring diagrams and noticed a relay called "Ignition". It turns out this relay powers up 6 or 8 fuses in junction block 2, among them Inj 1 and Inj 2 which power left and right bank coils and injectors.
To make a long story short, I found on my car, a 2000 SS, that the ground for the Ignition relay, G105, were the ones bolted to the radiator support. I simply tied them together, then ran a wire from that junction back to one side of the cutoff switch, then ran a short wire from the other side of the switch to the bolts holding on my switch thus completing the ground circuit. When the switch is shut off the relay opens and the car shuts off, nice.
I'm not sure if all years are wired in the exact same manner, but if you undo the bolts on both grounds on the radiator support and get a "crank-no start" you can use the same system I did. I hope this helps make someone elses life easier.
Salvation came when I was scrolling through the wiring diagrams and noticed a relay called "Ignition". It turns out this relay powers up 6 or 8 fuses in junction block 2, among them Inj 1 and Inj 2 which power left and right bank coils and injectors.
To make a long story short, I found on my car, a 2000 SS, that the ground for the Ignition relay, G105, were the ones bolted to the radiator support. I simply tied them together, then ran a wire from that junction back to one side of the cutoff switch, then ran a short wire from the other side of the switch to the bolts holding on my switch thus completing the ground circuit. When the switch is shut off the relay opens and the car shuts off, nice.
I'm not sure if all years are wired in the exact same manner, but if you undo the bolts on both grounds on the radiator support and get a "crank-no start" you can use the same system I did. I hope this helps make someone elses life easier.
#5
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Thanks for showing me errors of my ways. I can't believe how short sighted I was. That is what is so good about this forum. I shall re-read section 8.4 under general regulations in my NHRA rule book too see what else I might have misconstrued. I appreciate the concern.
#6
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Originally Posted by Die Grinder
Thanks for showing me errors of my ways. I can't believe how short sighted I was. That is what is so good about this forum. I shall re-read section 8.4 under general regulations in my NHRA rule book too see what else I might have misconstrued. I appreciate the concern.
www.madelectrical.com. LOTS of good info on that site, concerning this topic.
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#7
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not to rain on your parade, but i think that the NHRA idea was to primairily kill all electronic transmission into the car with the kill switch. long story short, fuel pump, coil, injectors, alternator, everything.
killing the injector relay will shut off the engine, but it wont stop the fuel pump, in the event that you flip the car, and God forbid, the fuel lines are cut, continuing to spray fuel all over the place while the car and you burn to a crispy man-mc-nuggett.
it's a good thought, but be to safe about it, look at ALL the angles.
killing the injector relay will shut off the engine, but it wont stop the fuel pump, in the event that you flip the car, and God forbid, the fuel lines are cut, continuing to spray fuel all over the place while the car and you burn to a crispy man-mc-nuggett.
it's a good thought, but be to safe about it, look at ALL the angles.