can some1 explain to me adjustable control arms???
can some1 explain to me adjustable control arms??? I understand what they do i'm just trying to figure out why there would be a need to lengthen the control arm other than the obvious installation ease (like if the hole doesn't line up and you lengthen it to fit)....
What is the effect on traction and how do say the BMR models for example that are double adjustable help traction????
reason i ask is because i'm getting ready to buy some and want to know where my money is going....
TIA!
What is the effect on traction and how do say the BMR models for example that are double adjustable help traction????
reason i ask is because i'm getting ready to buy some and want to know where my money is going....
TIA!
so if my tires are centered i don't need em?????
that's what i'm trying to figure out... if the adjustment will HELP make the car hook harder.... if it's just cosmetic i'll cross them off my buy list....
that's what i'm trying to figure out... if the adjustment will HELP make the car hook harder.... if it's just cosmetic i'll cross them off my buy list....
If you run relocation brackets you really need them. Bmr makes some good ones and I have a set that are chromemoly and offset to clear the bigger tires.
Just to add to madman's and SSwaner's reply's...
Most dont need them because they have small stockish sized tires and do not have clearance issues. When you step up to large rear tires for drag racing, you will find that the stock rear end location is not centered in the wheel well... Therefore you'll need to move the rear end to get the tire to clear. Also, most that are going fast enough to require big drag tires already have LCA relocation brackets.
Ive got MADMAN's control arms now, almost bought BMR ones but didnt like the idea of poly bushings to flex, and to get rod ended LCA's from them is expensive.
Most dont need them because they have small stockish sized tires and do not have clearance issues. When you step up to large rear tires for drag racing, you will find that the stock rear end location is not centered in the wheel well... Therefore you'll need to move the rear end to get the tire to clear. Also, most that are going fast enough to require big drag tires already have LCA relocation brackets.
Ive got MADMAN's control arms now, almost bought BMR ones but didnt like the idea of poly bushings to flex, and to get rod ended LCA's from them is expensive.
I have BMR lca's and UMI weld-in relocation brackets right now.
I just bought some double adjustable SJM lca's.
How do I measure to center the rear-end in the wheel well? What do I use as the reference point?
I just bought some double adjustable SJM lca's.
How do I measure to center the rear-end in the wheel well? What do I use as the reference point?
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cool.. okay well this is from another post that i made in suspension section...
if the car is stock ride height do i need relocation brackets? will it make the car hook harder if the car isn't lowered???? i realize i pick up some lca angle which if will help the car hook i'll pick those up as well when i buy my shocks and shock brackets as well this friday...
I run 28x10.5W's right now and have no clearance issues with tubular HPM lca's... non adjustable but they have poly bushings...... i might pick up the bmr non adjustable race versions though....
if the car is stock ride height do i need relocation brackets? will it make the car hook harder if the car isn't lowered???? i realize i pick up some lca angle which if will help the car hook i'll pick those up as well when i buy my shocks and shock brackets as well this friday...
I run 28x10.5W's right now and have no clearance issues with tubular HPM lca's... non adjustable but they have poly bushings...... i might pick up the bmr non adjustable race versions though....
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some relocation brackets have the holes drilled so that it accounts for the arm swing. so you dont need adjustables.
main thing is being able to get the rear square in the car so it will go straight when the fronts are in the air.
main thing is being able to get the rear square in the car so it will go straight when the fronts are in the air.
As far as measuring to center the rear end. Pic two chassis 'places' that are the same on either side of the car. I use the LCA mounting points on the inboard side of each. Then measure to some point on the rear that is the same on both sides. I use the shock mount for this part of the measurements.
FWIW, my 28X10.5's did not clear the back bumber with non-adj. LCA's on my 96 TA... On other cars Ive worked on that wasnt an issue, but they still where not centered in the wheelwell and with such a big tire you could easily see the gap difference.
FWIW, my 28X10.5's did not clear the back bumber with non-adj. LCA's on my 96 TA... On other cars Ive worked on that wasnt an issue, but they still where not centered in the wheelwell and with such a big tire you could easily see the gap difference.
Originally Posted by SSwanner
hey fire67, do you drive your car on the street? how "loud or noticible" are the solid ended LCA's?
Originally Posted by vtec
some relocation brackets have the holes drilled so that it accounts for the arm swing.
doesn't moving your rear foward make the ceter of gravity change as well as moving them back?
The futher towards the front the more lift on the front and the futher back the less lift on the front and more weight on the front?
That is if your tires allow moving back and forth.
Correct me if I am wrong about this.
I think that is how it works at least that is what I understand from setting up a RC car. Different lenths between the front and the back wheels changed the handling on it. Seems to me for drag racing you would be better to have them the most foward as you can unless you car lifting the front too much then move them back. Would doing so make anything elso off?
The futher towards the front the more lift on the front and the futher back the less lift on the front and more weight on the front?
That is if your tires allow moving back and forth.
Correct me if I am wrong about this.
I think that is how it works at least that is what I understand from setting up a RC car. Different lenths between the front and the back wheels changed the handling on it. Seems to me for drag racing you would be better to have them the most foward as you can unless you car lifting the front too much then move them back. Would doing so make anything elso off?
Originally Posted by Fire67
Um, they all have that. But with weld in ones its up to you to make sure that swing is oriented correctly.
Okay hate to bring this topic back up (I bought Madman's Outlaw Offset control arms BTW which are adjustable).... but i was underneath the car pulling off the old set of control arms and I got to thinking.....
how the hell can you center the rearend in the wheelwell front to back when your torque arm is attached???? You can't lengthen the torque arm (unless you have a spherical rod end in the front (like the spohn unit) and you thread it all the way out to give you the length you need?????
I was just wondering since your torque arm is going to keep the rearend where it is how you guys got around that.... or did I already answer my own question and you just lengthened the torque arm distance as well using a spherical rod end up front where it connects to the crossmember....
how the hell can you center the rearend in the wheelwell front to back when your torque arm is attached???? You can't lengthen the torque arm (unless you have a spherical rod end in the front (like the spohn unit) and you thread it all the way out to give you the length you need?????
I was just wondering since your torque arm is going to keep the rearend where it is how you guys got around that.... or did I already answer my own question and you just lengthened the torque arm distance as well using a spherical rod end up front where it connects to the crossmember....
