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Where is all the weight at?

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Old 02-12-2007, 11:20 AM
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High quality wheels like BOGARTS or high end WELDS magnum's aluma stars. from a pro star with a small radial to a magnum 2.0 with a et front runner lost 11lbs a side. the litte crap counts it all adds up. youll never lose significant weight if you have the " well whats that maybe 3-4 lbs? its not worth it" adittude. it starts to get expensive fast when you switch for light weight stuff, but if your car is running 10.0s that should be no surprise to you.
Old 02-12-2007, 02:25 PM
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Already have Bogarts

I stiull can't get over how light your car is Ed. Did you have the backing off the carpet?
Old 02-12-2007, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Already have Bogarts

I stiull can't get over how light your car is Ed. Did you have the backing off the carpet?
Yep, backing is gone. Check the rubber sound deadner on the inside of the firewall. Runs down onto the floor. I cut mine up to get it out easier. Don't remember how many lbs (2 years ago & I'm old), but was worth the time.
I weighed my car at Englistown, and it weighed about 15/20 lbs more than here at home, but it had mufflers on it there for the deal. I don't think the scales here are wrong.

Where did you get your Bogarts?
Old 02-12-2007, 05:10 PM
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damn im at 3450 raceweight, still ahve everything inside, leather 6 way seats, stock metal hood, stock glass, wipers center console, carpet backing stock k member, salad shooters, stock plasic up front, n20 system, stock catback

removed ac heater bumper supports sway bar, lighter converter, headers, ls1 lid, no rear upper panhard rod
Old 02-13-2007, 03:46 PM
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are all you guys around 3000 lbs or so using cars with manual locks and windows? How much does the power option actually add?
Old 02-13-2007, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Where did you get your Bogarts?

I called the old guy at Bogart and he sent me to SMJ. Stay on top of them. took over two month's to get them racing was well under way when i got them last year. that was just the back Wheels BTW. I am running the ET Street wheels on the front with 3/4in spacers. If you are running race brakes they should fit great!

I was looking at that rubber mat you are talking about. it is coming out
Old 02-14-2007, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Out1aw
are all you guys around 3000 lbs or so using cars with manual locks and windows? How much does the power option actually add?
I still have power windows and electric rear hatch release. They are staying in.
Old 02-14-2007, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Out1aw
are all you guys around 3000 lbs or so using cars with manual locks and windows? How much does the power option actually add?
I've seen on here where someone weighed the power windows verses manual and the power was less than the manual. I think it comes down to the power window motor verses the crank style regulator.
Old 02-14-2007, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cwaldt
I've seen on here where someone weighed the power windows verses manual and the power was less than the manual. I think it comes down to the power window motor verses the crank style regulator.
A friend of mine told me he weighed both styles of door (Has a friend with a salvage), and the manual was like 1 lb heavier. I have seen guys post the opposite. Can't be a big deal either way. I wouldn't worry about it. The car being clean underneath would make more difference than that.
Old 02-14-2007, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
A friend of mine told me he weighed both styles of door (Has a friend with a salvage), and the manual was like 1 lb heavier. I have seen guys post the opposite. Can't be a big deal either way. I wouldn't worry about it. The car being clean underneath would make more difference than that.
I got a power regulator and a manual regulator, motor, wiring, manual crank, etc. long ago to weigh...I can't remember which one was heavier, but the two were within a pound per side. Saw so much debate, got the parts cheap, and verified for myself that my decision to keep my power windows was the right one. Lots easier to deal with when strapped in to a car in the staging lanes and you want your window(s) down.

Power mirror was 3-oz heavier than a manual one...stayed power on that, too.
Old 02-14-2007, 02:52 PM
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Are the stock front rotors the same size as the v6 ones? If not, I'd swap them out and save a couple pounds. Switch to manual steering and brakes. Winshield wiper motor and wipers, side beams in the doors, aluminum flywheel, take the passenger seat out when racing, and as stated earlier take the radio out. -Mark
Old 02-14-2007, 02:52 PM
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Yep, I still have power mirrors also. They are staying too.
Old 02-14-2007, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I hear you. I looked at moving the battery but it added 15-20 Lbs! Of course the spare and jack are gone BUT replaced with a full N2O system that was even heavier
use the PC680 in the stock location!!
Old 02-14-2007, 03:26 PM
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Glass pin on hood, less carpet, plastic stuff on firewall, any unused wiring needs to be removed. ABS Delete, No SFCs, Lightweight LCAs/PHRs, aftermarket steering wheel, removed PS, A/C Condensor, 1 12" fan. Remove any uneeded metal from car like behind the plastic.
My RW was 3100ish with 230+ driver. BUT my car was stripped, Nothing in it but what was needed to make the 1/4 passes.
Old 02-14-2007, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
I'm putting everything (factory wiring, wipers, etc.) that comes out in a plastic bag to weigh when I'm done.

Good luck, Ed
Ed, On my 98 i pulled out all the wiring under the dash, the abs wiring that goes up to the abs module under the hood, and the wiring harness going to the monsoon amp. I left in all the lights,power windows, and power mirrors.

It was 24 lbs of wire.
Old 02-15-2007, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
use the PC680 in the stock location!!
Been there. left me stranded to many times so I went back to a Regular battery Gel/spiral
Old 02-15-2007, 12:28 AM
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The wiring is actually suprisingly heavy. I've seen some threads on here where guys have taken 30+ pounds of wiring out of there cars and still had everything needed to operate the creature comforts. The lexan windows would be a huge one also. Major weight reduction to be had there, especially with our huge *** windshields and windows.
Old 02-15-2007, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by promod1955
Ed, On my 98 i pulled out all the wiring under the dash, the abs wiring that goes up to the abs module under the hood, and the wiring harness going to the monsoon amp. I left in all the lights,power windows, and power mirrors.

It was 24 lbs of wire.

That's what I'm doing as soon as I get the car back. Last word was I could pick it up Sat am. I have a nice little fuse panel from NAPA, a suppy of wire and terminals. My friend has a very nice '97 SS/GT '97 Camaro, who just finished rewiring his. He gave me the color codes for the windows, etc, to save me some time. It's tight getting to the starter wires with these bigger headers, so I'm putting a jumper on the starter and using a Ford solenoid on the firewall inside. Got a battery cable pass-thru deal, so I'll only have to take one nut off at an easy place to reach on the firewall to disconnect the starter next time the engine comes in & out. I'm putting everything in a plastic bag so I can see what it weighs. Thinking about loosing the headlight motors as well, I use the fog lights at night races if the return road is dark. I re-aimed them, (car is low in the front) so I can far enough ahead. It'll be lower in the back now.

As high as copper has gotten, I may sell the old wire for scrap. Looks like about 47 miles of it'll coming out.

Ed
Old 02-15-2007, 11:06 AM
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Keep a rag and some brake cleaner near by when you do it. When you untape it the wires are slimy/sticky mess that gets all over your hands. I hear you on the copper wire. My dads an electrical contractor. Thats all he talks about anymore.




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