Who makes the lightweight front brake kits?
04-04-2007, 11:41 AM
#21
Originally Posted by Fire67
I never said they wouldnt work, but I promise I can get a set of brakes hotter on the street than I can on the dragstrip 
There's just too much time between runs at the track, on the street I can stop hard 5 times within 2 minutes and all but garauntee a warped rotor or two.
There's just too much time between runs at the track, on the street I can stop hard 5 times within 2 minutes and all but garauntee a warped rotor or two.
It really depnds how you drive the car, I know guys that could warp stock rotors in a day and others that can go 50K on them. I can guarantee they will outstop a skinney front tire and that tire will cause you drive into something well before the brakes overheat..
Curious how many guys have ever warped a strange or aerospace front rotor?
04-04-2007, 11:56 AM
#22
I know a few people that have LW brakes and noone has ever mentioned anything about warping rotors or any of that.Even with manual master cylinders, they claim the car stop as well as they did before htey put the brakes on.. but they do seem to fade a little bit in heavier traffic if they get stuck in some.
Some of the cars are old school stuff, some newer cars, but the consensus is generally the same regardless.
Some of the cars are old school stuff, some newer cars, but the consensus is generally the same regardless.
04-04-2007, 12:17 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by kp
I disagree, I have never got these brakes as hot as I have at the track. The 'street car' races I usually run at there is little to no time between rounds - they are street cars you know. A few times I had to make 3 in a row in less then 10 minutes and I could feel the heat 10' away from those brakes after that, you would swear you just burned a z06 clutch out of the car by way it smelled. I never got them that hot street driving them.
It really depnds how you drive the car, I know guys that could warp stock rotors in a day and others that can go 50K on them. I can guarantee they will outstop a skinney front tire and that tire will cause you drive into something well before the brakes overheat..
Curious how many guys have ever warped a strange or aerospace front rotor?
It really depnds how you drive the car, I know guys that could warp stock rotors in a day and others that can go 50K on them. I can guarantee they will outstop a skinney front tire and that tire will cause you drive into something well before the brakes overheat..
Curious how many guys have ever warped a strange or aerospace front rotor?
At Bradenton Motorsports Park, a hotlap usually means 20 min between rounds. And the slowdown area is Looooong with 3 turnarounds. I always go to the last one to be easy on my brakes. No sense in stopping hard if its not neccessary.
04-04-2007, 12:18 PM
#24
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I know a few people that have LW brakes and noone has ever mentioned anything about warping rotors or any of that.Even with manual master cylinders, they claim the car stop as well as they did before htey put the brakes on.. but they do seem to fade a little bit in heavier traffic if they get stuck in some.
Some of the cars are old school stuff, some newer cars, but the consensus is generally the same regardless.
Some of the cars are old school stuff, some newer cars, but the consensus is generally the same regardless.
I'm not trying to tell people that they are the same as stock brakes, they are not. If you like playing fast and furious in traffic with a 3800lb car they arent for you.
IMO putting things like tubular K-members, manual racks, drag brakes etc is nuts on a daily driven car. But a weekend toy is a different if you know your limitations.
04-04-2007, 12:24 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Fire67
Yeah, I dont have the lightweight brakes. I was just giving an example. I wouldnt ever attempt to drive a car equipped with them like I do my street car. The SS gets beatings that usually leave the rotors glowing red and smoke billowing off of them. Pads and rotors dont last long at all on that car. My TA on the other hand, has always seen mostly drag duty and the stock brakes have been in duty for years. With my most recent change in setups, I switched to Powerstop rotors and Hawk pads. When I did, the stock stuff I removed got saved because it was all still in great condition.
At Bradenton Motorsports Park, a hotlap usually means 20 min between rounds. And the slowdown area is Looooong with 3 turnarounds. I always go to the last one to be easy on my brakes. No sense in stopping hard if its not neccessary.
At Bradenton Motorsports Park, a hotlap usually means 20 min between rounds. And the slowdown area is Looooong with 3 turnarounds. I always go to the last one to be easy on my brakes. No sense in stopping hard if its not neccessary.
But be careful on using the whole shutdown, sometimes goofy things happen at the end of the track and you wish you would have slowed down a lot quicker. I want to get mine slowed down as fast as I can these days.
04-04-2007, 12:44 PM
#26
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I understand that. I do slow down relatively quick at first to drop speed, then coast a little as I near my turn-off. That way Im not just scrubbing 120+mph in one application of the brakes. Its alot easier on them and they dont get near as hot. Basically use a few short applications rather than one long, hard one. But like you said, everyone's driving style and comfort related habits are different.
04-04-2007, 10:43 PM
#28
Originally Posted by tektrans
Where to get and how much weight did you save?
Lines need bled and need an alignment for the k-member and a-arms. I'll find out how they work after that.
I've heard good things about them from a couple local guys and my cars not a DD. I also keep up on regular maintenance so I'm not worried about it.
Saved 35lbs on the fronts and 31.5lbs on the back. 12lbs for the parking brake.
04-05-2007, 04:33 PM
#31
Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
I just put my Strange front and rears on this past week. Got them from SJM.
Lines need bled and need an alignment for the k-member and a-arms. I'll find out how they work after that.
I've heard good things about them from a couple local guys and my cars not a DD. I also keep up on regular maintenance so I'm not worried about it.
Saved 35lbs on the fronts and 31.5lbs on the back. 12lbs for the parking brake.
Lines need bled and need an alignment for the k-member and a-arms. I'll find out how they work after that.
I've heard good things about them from a couple local guys and my cars not a DD. I also keep up on regular maintenance so I'm not worried about it.
Saved 35lbs on the fronts and 31.5lbs on the back. 12lbs for the parking brake.
Kent1, I ordered the pads right from aerospace. They are Hawk pads, forget the number but if you do a search you can find it. I just got them from Aerospace since they had them in stock, they were misboxed from Hawk and the street compound pads in the drag race compound box. I was in a hurry so I just used them..
04-05-2007, 05:33 PM
#32
Originally Posted by kp
Curious why you mounted the rear calipers towards the front? First thing it says in the strange instructions I have is to mount them towards the rear of the car.
The instructions for installing the rear set is what I had in front of me.
Step 10 on that sheet says the bracket can be mounted facing the front of the car or towards the rear of the car. I figured I'd keep it in the stock location.
Now I'm thinking I should change them around. I probably will since the car is still in the air and it'll only take a few minutes. Kinda odd that they would contradict themselves from one page to the other.
04-05-2007, 05:53 PM
#33
Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
I see that notation now on the 1 page of the 3.
The instructions for installing the rear set is what I had in front of me.
Step 10 on that sheet says the bracket can be mounted facing the front of the car or towards the rear of the car. I figured I'd keep it in the stock location.
Now I'm thinking I should change them around. I probably will since the car is still in the air and it'll only take a few minutes. Kinda odd that they would contradict themselves from one page to the other.
The instructions for installing the rear set is what I had in front of me.
Step 10 on that sheet says the bracket can be mounted facing the front of the car or towards the rear of the car. I figured I'd keep it in the stock location.
Now I'm thinking I should change them around. I probably will since the car is still in the air and it'll only take a few minutes. Kinda odd that they would contradict themselves from one page to the other.
04-06-2007, 01:44 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Steve Burger
Strange brakes will not do well on the street. They are non vented rotors and will warp quick.
