28x10.5 Stiffwall slick
28x10.5 Stiffwall slick ok, tried the search function, and i see that this is a recommended tire for M6 cars. What about a car spraying off a T Brake?? or would it be just as good to use the regular slicks. I have been running the 325/50/15 MT radials and they are great, on a prepped track, and ok on an unprepped track. I am looking for something that is going to hook really good on a not so prepped track. I am also looking at the M & H and Hoosier slicks. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I also run in a mean street class, and they allow up to a 10.5 tread slick, just not the "W" .
Man your times are damn near identical to my M/T DR times i wonder if i could improve upon them with a good set of slicks. Where did you get the good years?? I looked at one site and they have the 28x11's but they are not showing the stiffwall, also it is sayi ng the D-3 is one of the hardest compounds, wouldn't you want a softer compound to hook on a not so good track?
i wonder if i could improve upon them with a good set of slicks. Where did you get the good years?? I looked at one site and they have the 28x11's but they are not showing the stiffwall, also it is sayi ng the D-3 is one of the hardest compounds, wouldn't you want a softer compound to hook on a not so good track? I have had very good luck with the 10.5x28x15S ET drags and they seem to last longer as well. I ran the regular ones for quite a while and they would start going away bad after about 25 passes, these will go 50-60 easy. 1.25-1.27s most of the time leaving with the 2 step @ 2500 off the brake. Cant complain about that..
Yeah, as I understand it GoodYear doesen't list a stiff sidewall but the harder compound tires inherently have a stiffer sidewall. GY recommends the D3's for cars over 3000lbs. They also have a D5 which is a little softer and can be used on cars as heavy as 3200 but it's a 30" tire minimum. My car hooks almost all the time, even on a cold track as long as I get a good burnout. Consistent mid to low 1.3's is what I've been running my last few times out, IMO these are great tires.
ok, well after looking, it sounds as though i am going to go with a stiff wall tire, and i don't see m & H or hoosier listing them, so i am narrowing it down. I have alwyas heard people say that m & H slicks hook like crazy glue, anyone have any experience to back this up, or is it just hearsay??
It looks like the M/T are about 160$ for the 28x10.5 S
and the goodyear's are 205$ for the 28x10 and 260$ for the 28x11
is there any performance difference between the two, to warrant the difference in money??
It looks like the M/T are about 160$ for the 28x10.5 S
and the goodyear's are 205$ for the 28x10 and 260$ for the 28x11
is there any performance difference between the two, to warrant the difference in money??
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Originally Posted by URLOSN
Thanks for the input kevin, i am really beginning to lean toward the stiff walls. How do they act going down the track, pretty stable, or kinda move around a good bit??
Tubes help with that quite a bit, after having to put air in between rounds on cold days I started running tubes again and the 'S' tires at the same time and the whole thing is a lot more stable then the non-S with no tube. Dont if the tire or tube (or both) helped to be honest though.
Most tires work pretty good if the car is set up right, I can also do 1.30-1.35 60 foots with 11.5x28 Hoosier QTPs as well but the ET drags are more consistant on crappy tracks. Havent tried M&H tires in 15 years, nothing wrong with Goodyear slicks, just too pricy for me plus I get a deal on M/T stuff - I go through 3-4 sets a year..
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Originally Posted by kp
Havent tried M&H tires in 15 years, nothing wrong with Goodyear slicks, just too pricy for me plus I get a deal on M/T stuff - I go through 3-4 sets a year..
I will not be running tubes, i cut one tube on a launch and it just ripped the valve stem, i made it half track at wide open, when the tire went flat, that sucked. I used the QTP's on my old set up, and just used a light coat of soap on the sidewalls on the inside when i mounted them and they held air for 3 months and never lost pressure. Kevin are you screwing your tires to your rims?? i am going to try with out it first,
i'm with kp, i was a dead set Hoosier guy for the longest time. swore up and down that they hooked better and on the street, they hooked incredible(unprepped industrial road).
But like he said, they were more consistant on the crappier tracks, and they lasted alot longer
But like he said, they were more consistant on the crappier tracks, and they lasted alot longer
Originally Posted by URLOSN
I will not be running tubes, i cut one tube on a launch and it just ripped the valve stem, i made it half track at wide open, when the tire went flat, that sucked. I used the QTP's on my old set up, and just used a light coat of soap on the sidewalls on the inside when i mounted them and they held air for 3 months and never lost pressure. Kevin are you screwing your tires to your rims?? i am going to try with out it first,
No screws and they hold air pretty well, screws and they no longer hold air that well. Once in a great while the stars aligned and my biorythms were up and they would hold air with screws and no tubes but not that often.
I wont run a fast drag car with no screws and slicks but some do..
Originally Posted by kp
You have to screw the tires to the rims with tubes, otherwise you will rip the valve stem out
No screws and they hold air pretty well, screws and they no longer hold air that well. Once in a great while the stars aligned and my biorythms were up and they would hold air with screws and no tubes but not that often.
I wont run a fast drag car with no screws and slicks but some do..
No screws and they hold air pretty well, screws and they no longer hold air that well. Once in a great while the stars aligned and my biorythms were up and they would hold air with screws and no tubes but not that often.
I wont run a fast drag car with no screws and slicks but some do..
Agree with KP on how the 3055S (M/T PN for the 28x10.5 Stiff) drive on the big end. I ran mine starting at 14 psi cold, and up to 20 psi warm if track was right. I went with some 'W's next, and while they hook great, I was actually a bit quicker and faster with the stiffer sidewalls.
Two notes on the 'S' versions. Similar to a DR or radial slick, they will react quicker due to less sidewall flex, so, if you are red-light prone, you'll have to make other adjustments. Secondly, similar too to a DR or radial slick, they don't recover as well if you spin than a conventional slick, once again attributable to the stiff sidewall.
Once my 'W's are finished off later this spring or summer, it will be back to either a 3055S or a 30x10.5 (29.5" actual) Hoosier radial slick if I step up in gearing. One final note, my 325 DR's are the quickest and fastest of my three rears I run, but, they also are the most prone to spin or wheelhop due to the sidewall...but when the hook, which is most of the time, they hit HARD and quickly, and these are the "old" BFG's, not the M/T's...yet.
Good luck. Take care. Dave
Two notes on the 'S' versions. Similar to a DR or radial slick, they will react quicker due to less sidewall flex, so, if you are red-light prone, you'll have to make other adjustments. Secondly, similar too to a DR or radial slick, they don't recover as well if you spin than a conventional slick, once again attributable to the stiff sidewall.
Once my 'W's are finished off later this spring or summer, it will be back to either a 3055S or a 30x10.5 (29.5" actual) Hoosier radial slick if I step up in gearing. One final note, my 325 DR's are the quickest and fastest of my three rears I run, but, they also are the most prone to spin or wheelhop due to the sidewall...but when the hook, which is most of the time, they hit HARD and quickly, and these are the "old" BFG's, not the M/T's...yet.
Good luck. Take care. Dave
Originally Posted by RUQWIKR
Agree with KP on how the 3055S (M/T PN for the 28x10.5 Stiff) drive on the big end. I ran mine starting at 14 psi cold, and up to 20 psi warm if track was right. I went with some 'W's next, and while they hook great, I was actually a bit quicker and faster with the stiffer sidewalls.
Two notes on the 'S' versions. Similar to a DR or radial slick, they will react quicker due to less sidewall flex, so, if you are red-light prone, you'll have to make other adjustments. Secondly, similar too to a DR or radial slick, they don't recover as well if you spin than a conventional slick, once again attributable to the stiff sidewall.
Once my 'W's are finished off later this spring or summer, it will be back to either a 3055S or a 30x10.5 (29.5" actual) Hoosier radial slick if I step up in gearing. One final note, my 325 DR's are the quickest and fastest of my three rears I run, but, they also are the most prone to spin or wheelhop due to the sidewall...but when the hook, which is most of the time, they hit HARD and quickly, and these are the "old" BFG's, not the M/T's...yet.
Good luck. Take care. Dave
Two notes on the 'S' versions. Similar to a DR or radial slick, they will react quicker due to less sidewall flex, so, if you are red-light prone, you'll have to make other adjustments. Secondly, similar too to a DR or radial slick, they don't recover as well if you spin than a conventional slick, once again attributable to the stiff sidewall.
Once my 'W's are finished off later this spring or summer, it will be back to either a 3055S or a 30x10.5 (29.5" actual) Hoosier radial slick if I step up in gearing. One final note, my 325 DR's are the quickest and fastest of my three rears I run, but, they also are the most prone to spin or wheelhop due to the sidewall...but when the hook, which is most of the time, they hit HARD and quickly, and these are the "old" BFG's, not the M/T's...yet.
Good luck. Take care. Dave
I like the radials but I dont like the wheel hop if the dont hook, and they wear out pretty quick 
The 'S' tires do have a little shake/hop to them (more then the regular 10.5x28) if you spin them hard off the line but nothing like the radials..
tektrans, I have had some hold air and some not hold air and have tried just about everything over the years. But with the tubes they hold air for months every time..
The 'S' tires do have a little shake/hop to them (more then the regular 10.5x28) if you spin them hard off the line but nothing like the radials..tektrans, I have had some hold air and some not hold air and have tried just about everything over the years. But with the tubes they hold air for months every time..
what brand of tubes are you running in your tires kevin? just cheap one's or namebrand?? i really don't want to drill my rims for screws, but what are the chances they won't spin on the rim with 1.3-1.4 60' times?? just don't like the screw look, but if i have to,i will. last tires i ran with tubes, i had screwed, and the rim around the stem hole cut the stem,
I use the M/T tubes, they have a metal aircraft type valvestem. You will have to open up the valve stem hole a little to use them. At those 60's the tires move a lot and the less air you run in them the more they move. If you get them too low they can air down very quick if they move the wrong way.
Get some goodyear stiff wall tires, run some tubes and HOLD THE **** ON. lol
anyways, the best 2 things i ever did to my nova where
1.Stiff wall goodyear
2.tubes.
once you get both, you will know why.
anyways, the best 2 things i ever did to my nova where
1.Stiff wall goodyear
2.tubes.
once you get both, you will know why.