cage question
04-20-2007, 11:54 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cage question I was going to buy the 8 pt comp engineering kit. My question is what are the regulations on who should weld it? Can anyone with a ticket weld it or do they even need a ticket? Or does it need to be inspected by NHRA? The fastest I would be running is low 10's.
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-21-2007, 12:12 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have a WOLFE 10 point and my welders told me it was the best kit they have ever done.
Any GOOD welder can put it in for you.
If its a Molly cage then it HAS to be Tig welded.
As far as I know all cages have to be certified but I could be wrong. All cages also MUST have a window net no matter how slow the car is.
Before you buy you might want to pick up an NHRA rule book.
Any GOOD welder can put it in for you.
If its a Molly cage then it HAS to be Tig welded.
As far as I know all cages have to be certified but I could be wrong. All cages also MUST have a window net no matter how slow the car is.
Before you buy you might want to pick up an NHRA rule book.
04-21-2007, 12:30 AM
#3
A couple things.
If you are not going to be running any faster than 10.0 you only need a 6 point (from 11.4999 to 10.0000). No inspection; no window net
From 9.9999 to 8.50 you need a 10 point, with window net, and be certified by NHRA/IHRA.
From 8.49999 and faster you need one of the 25 series cages. Now we're getting serious.
Any shop can weld it for you.
There are numerous trends out there.. try the search or just page down - there is like 4-5 "My 25 series cage" out. Read up. A lot of info.
David
If you are not going to be running any faster than 10.0 you only need a 6 point (from 11.4999 to 10.0000). No inspection; no window net
From 9.9999 to 8.50 you need a 10 point, with window net, and be certified by NHRA/IHRA.
From 8.49999 and faster you need one of the 25 series cages. Now we're getting serious.
Any shop can weld it for you.
There are numerous trends out there.. try the search or just page down - there is like 4-5 "My 25 series cage" out. Read up. A lot of info.
David
04-21-2007, 12:30 AM
#4
Wow so it has to have a net?
My car is only low 7s or high 6s in the 8th
I put a cage in just to be more safe and add body streanth.
It is a 10pt moly with bars through the firewall to the front frame and tied to the fenderwell.
So i still have to have a net?
If you get moly be sure they TIG weld it no matter if they tell you it don't need to be and it could be MIG welded. IT HAS TO BE TIG WELDED. per NHRA rules. If they are going Mig weld it then find another shop. mild steel can be MIG welded but TIG is still better on mild steel also but not a rule like moly.
My car is only low 7s or high 6s in the 8th
I put a cage in just to be more safe and add body streanth.
It is a 10pt moly with bars through the firewall to the front frame and tied to the fenderwell.
So i still have to have a net?
If you get moly be sure they TIG weld it no matter if they tell you it don't need to be and it could be MIG welded. IT HAS TO BE TIG WELDED. per NHRA rules. If they are going Mig weld it then find another shop. mild steel can be MIG welded but TIG is still better on mild steel also but not a rule like moly.
04-21-2007, 12:33 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
No matter how slow you are you have to have a net for a cage.
Before I decided to buy this "other" motor I was only going to be going low 11's.
I got the cage because I got a killer deal on it and the install. That and the full cage is safer and I race it A LOT. I honestly feel safer in it now.
To each his or her own
Before I decided to buy this "other" motor I was only going to be going low 11's.
I got the cage because I got a killer deal on it and the install. That and the full cage is safer and I race it A LOT. I honestly feel safer in it now.
To each his or her own
Trending Topics
04-21-2007, 09:15 AM
#9
Originally Posted by 94Pontiac
so at 11.49 to 9.99 you just need the hoop?
Here's a link to the Wolfe site: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=20
David
04-21-2007, 02:39 PM
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks! that makes sense. Now that thats cleared up I have to find someone to weld it. Whats the average cost for mig welding mild steel cage? So I heard that you need to have the door bars at elbow height? Any other things that I should watch for?
thanks for the info
thanks for the info
04-22-2007, 10:03 PM
#13
7 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Posts: 8,834
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Actually a 5-point ROLLBAR is all that's needed if you are running a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails from 11.49 to 10.00.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop
2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos.
Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable)
Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out)
Many put a 6-point in because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal. I run a 5-point in my Nova with no twisting.
Derek
The 5-points are:
Main hoop
2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos.
Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable)
Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out)
Many put a 6-point in because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal. I run a 5-point in my Nova with no twisting.
Derek