Wheel Studs?
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Wheel Studs?
What are you guys doing to put bigger studs in? I have a Moser 9" and I just killed all 5 Moser studs on the drivers rear Sat.at the track. I need some longer wheel studs and I can't get any 12mm's longer than 2.5". Will the 2.5's be enough to be NHRA legal. I'd like to step up to a bigger stud but it looks like way too much trouble to get the axles drilled, or what ever it is that they havr to do to em to make a larger stud fit.
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I did my burnout pulled to the line brought the rpm's up to 4700. When I launched the front came up and boom. It broke all 5 studs flush with the rotor. Luckily it didn't do any damage except roll the inside lip of the wheel housing that was easily fixed. These studs have been in this car since 1999 and have a ton of passes on them. I just never thought about swapping them
Are these ARP's the same 506 knurl? Or do I have to drill the axles?
Are these ARP's the same 506 knurl? Or do I have to drill the axles?
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I just went thru this on my moser's. For the work you have to do to put the longer 12mm's in you should just go ahead and put the 1/2" studs in. You still have to pull the axle and have the bearings pulled just to get the studs in. If your going to do that just only do it once and go 1/2". I had to use a 39/64ths drill for hte holes, I ordered them from moser and they told me everything I needed to do. Good luck.
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#8
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no you don't... I changed all the studs on my car to the 3.25 long stock dia arp ones, and never had to pull an axle. The fronts were simple, I didn't even take teh breaks off I just whacked teh old ones with a hammer, and drew them in with a big socket as a spacer.... and the rears I pulled the brakes off, pulled the abs sensor and was able to whack the studs out thru that hole. I unbolted the backing plate to get the studs thru, and that was all I needed to do. I then put the brakes back on with the studs loose, and drew them thru like I did with the fronts, no problems.
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Originally Posted by cainsw
WOW! Those bad boys are HIGH!!! Summit has them for $25 for 5! Ouch
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Originally Posted by n2ojunkie
I just went thru this on my moser's. For the work you have to do to put the longer 12mm's in you should just go ahead and put the 1/2" studs in. You still have to pull the axle and have the bearings pulled just to get the studs in. If your going to do that just only do it once and go 1/2". I had to use a 39/64ths drill for hte holes, I ordered them from moser and they told me everything I needed to do. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by StreetStalkerZ
to be legal
#12
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you DO NOT have to pull the axles if you are replacing the studs with stock size ARP studs.... I did the swap 2 weeks ago and did not pull the axles out of the car. The stud head will hit the reluctor ring a little bit, but with a couple taps with a hammer, they will go right in.
#13
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When i sheared all 5 ARP studs of my 1st 12 Bolt last YR i called ARP and they dont want you using there 12mm studs on anything over 500hp.....
They tell ya that after ya buy them and break them....
I skipped 1/2" all togeather... ill never break 5/8" studs LOL
The studs can be replaced just like JL said if your going with 12mm again....
I believe Thunder sells the 3.25" long ones...
Kyle
They tell ya that after ya buy them and break them....
I skipped 1/2" all togeather... ill never break 5/8" studs LOL
The studs can be replaced just like JL said if your going with 12mm again....
I believe Thunder sells the 3.25" long ones...
Kyle
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I dont know how you guys got the 3"- 1/2" studs on with out pulling them out and haveing the backing plates off? I tried every angle I could think off to get them in and couldnt do it. Now the stock ones ya I had that down to about 5 mins.
I had to take the axles in to have the bearings pressed off. a local shop took them off and I brought the axles back a couple days later to have the new ones put back on. cost me $15, it cost me $30 to have the holes drilled. I could of done it myself I had the bit but I only had a 1/2 chuck so the bigger bit wouldnt fit.
I thought about drilling the backing plate where there is a indent but didnt know if it would weaken it to much.
I had to take the axles in to have the bearings pressed off. a local shop took them off and I brought the axles back a couple days later to have the new ones put back on. cost me $15, it cost me $30 to have the holes drilled. I could of done it myself I had the bit but I only had a 1/2 chuck so the bigger bit wouldnt fit.
I thought about drilling the backing plate where there is a indent but didnt know if it would weaken it to much.
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unbolt the backing plate so it's loose, and take the wheel sensor out, that hole will work, you just have to turn the axle for each wheel stud.
That's not what I wanted to hear either kyle..... now over the winter I have another thing to do, go to 5/8 studs on the rear
That's not what I wanted to hear either kyle..... now over the winter I have another thing to do, go to 5/8 studs on the rear
#18
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correct only on 4 channel cars. If you do not have the hole in the backing plate for the 4 channel sensor, I'd get a drill and make a hole big enough for the stud to go thru the backing plate. The 4 channel cars have a good sized hole in the plate for the sensor, so it won't matter. Then you should have no problems.
Trust me I was worried I was gonna have to pull the axles, and was pleasantly surprised when I found I didn't have to.
Trust me I was worried I was gonna have to pull the axles, and was pleasantly surprised when I found I didn't have to.
#19
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
unbolt the backing plate so it's loose, and take the wheel sensor out, that hole will work, you just have to turn the axle for each wheel stud.
That's not what I wanted to hear either kyle..... now over the winter I have another thing to do, go to 5/8 studs on the rear
That's not what I wanted to hear either kyle..... now over the winter I have another thing to do, go to 5/8 studs on the rear
Sorry man... i was Pissed and called ARP and was like WTF Over.....
And they asked how much HP i was running and how fast the car has been and said that they didnt reccomend them on over 500HP....
They said 1/2" would of been fine but i didnt ever want to do the studs again and 5/8" was about the same price....
Kyle
#20
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I know.... the bogarts I race with will take a 5/8 stud no problem, I just wasn't quite ready to never be able to put my street wheels back on.
Car's gonna come off the road after this summer anyway, at that point the rear's getting a spool, probably gun drilled axles with 5/8 studs now.
Car's gonna come off the road after this summer anyway, at that point the rear's getting a spool, probably gun drilled axles with 5/8 studs now.