Roll cage tech questions
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7 Second Club
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Roll cage tech questions I'm trying to figure out how the chassis builders are completely welding around the main hoop and the front down bars at the lower door sill or rocker. I looked at a local car that was certified 8.50 and I really don't think the bar is completely welded at the bottom where it meets the base plate. Here is a pic of what I am talking about...
There is no way I can see you can weld completely around these bars,
I'd really like to use a baseplate on top of my 2x3 rectangle bars that connect the sub frame to my rockers. I can completely weld the bars and get almost 100% of the base plate with a mig. The roof is cut off and I can remove the entire cage to bench weld it.
There is no way I can see you can weld completely around these bars,
I'd really like to use a baseplate on top of my 2x3 rectangle bars that connect the sub frame to my rockers. I can completely weld the bars and get almost 100% of the base plate with a mig. The roof is cut off and I can remove the entire cage to bench weld it.
when mine was done they just tacked everything up good, but didnt weld the plates or subframe connectors in and then dropped the cage down and welded up everything.
could you not raise the whole thing up and weld that first before you weld the cage into the car??
by the way, your my hero cutting the rood off your car to do that. lol. keep it coming. looking good.
could you not raise the whole thing up and weld that first before you weld the cage into the car??
by the way, your my hero cutting the rood off your car to do that. lol. keep it coming. looking good.
Thread Starter
7 Second Club
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
That makes sense not welding the sub-frame connectors but I already did so I need to find a way around it. In those pics they already welded the sub-frame connectors in before they welded the cage.
Phil
Phil
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Most everything you try and plan ahead for so that you can either lay part of it over or drop it thru holes in the floor. Some of it you weld with mirrors. Some of it you weld while standing on your head running the peddle whith God knows what and some of it you just stick in there and stab with the same consistancy you had when you could see. Some may argue its best to not even weld what you cant see then to lay a sub par weld on moly due to its delicate heat properties. I have a few diferent TIG torches in various sizes from fixed to flexible down to a "pencil" torch. They really help you get in those hard to reach places as well as a "gas lense" so you can pull the tungsten out further to sneak into the joint. I've even seen guys heat up the tunsten and bend it and divert the gas. Theres alot of "funny" stuff that gets done that would make text book welders cringe.
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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Many guys do the high pressure, long tungsten trick, so it feels like you welded, when the tech guys feels around it. I would have to look it up, but I believe you don't have to weld 100%, you can use a gusett. I've also seen JB Weld stuck in the back, for the same thing, feels like a weld if you can't see it. Check with Division, and ask about the gusett thing, if you can't get 100% around. Good luck.
.
Many guys do the high pressure, long tungsten trick, so it feels like you welded, when the tech guys feels around it. I would have to look it up, but I believe you don't have to weld 100%, you can use a gusett. I've also seen JB Weld stuck in the back, for the same thing, feels like a weld if you can't see it. Check with Division, and ask about the gusett thing, if you can't get 100% around. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by NIIN20
Most everything you try and plan ahead for so that you can either lay part of it over or drop it thru holes in the floor. Some of it you weld with mirrors. Some of it you weld while standing on your head running the peddle whith God knows what and some of it you just stick in there and stab with the same consistancy you had when you could see. Some may argue its best to not even weld what you cant see then to lay a sub par weld on moly due to its delicate heat properties. I have a few diferent TIG torches in various sizes from fixed to flexible down to a "pencil" torch. They really help you get in those hard to reach places as well as a "gas lense" so you can pull the tungsten out further to sneak into the joint. I've even seen guys heat up the tunsten and bend it and divert the gas. Theres alot of "funny" stuff that gets done that would make text book welders cringe.
Learning to weld in a mirror is the hardest and most useful thing I did to get it done.
And if all else fails, and you can't weld 100% of it. Add a gusset
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
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Many guys do the high pressure, long tungsten trick, so it feels like you welded, when the tech guys feels around it. I would have to look it up, but I believe you don't have to weld 100%, you can use a gusett. I've also seen JB Weld stuck in the back, for the same thing, feels like a weld if you can't see it. Check with Division, and ask about the gusett thing, if you can't get 100% around. Good luck.
.
Many guys do the high pressure, long tungsten trick, so it feels like you welded, when the tech guys feels around it. I would have to look it up, but I believe you don't have to weld 100%, you can use a gusett. I've also seen JB Weld stuck in the back, for the same thing, feels like a weld if you can't see it. Check with Division, and ask about the gusett thing, if you can't get 100% around. Good luck.
.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: aiken ,sc
Originally Posted by 98CamZ28
Yea, when we were doing my cage we read that you could leave 25% (I think) unwelded as long as it was gusseted. Luckily we got everything welded all the way around
Originally Posted by NRC-Motorsports
thats only the bars to the top,main hoop, not everything else the rest has to be welded all around
