PS delete come in quick
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
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From: Ventura County, California
Yeah I tried another way before and it tossed the belt, it will idle and run fine but you get up in the rpm it's gonna pitch it.
I can't think of any way that it would toss the belt like I said I was going to run mine.
Make sure you measure the new pulley, I am almost positive it will have to have a small 1/16-1/8 washer it looks just a hair off to me when I swapped the ribbed pulley on the alternator.
I can't think of any way that it would toss the belt like I said I was going to run mine.
Make sure you measure the new pulley, I am almost positive it will have to have a small 1/16-1/8 washer it looks just a hair off to me when I swapped the ribbed pulley on the alternator.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
No if the rack isn't pressurized it won't turn any easier, I think it is just to keep a little fluid in there and keep the dirt out. One guy was talking about making a reservoir filling it with fluid then pressurize it with air, this might work, I hope some one trys it because if it does it will save a lot of guys 400-500 dollars.
i would LOVE to do this with my AGR rack but the company said it could damage it, skip a tooth so the wheel doesn't come back to center, brake the splines or something where the shaft slips over it, etc.
has ANYONE had and issues after prolonged (3000+ miles) diving experience after doing this with a power rack? i want to try this badly because if it works, i would save over $400 on a flaming river + a headache making a new shaft for it!
has ANYONE had and issues after prolonged (3000+ miles) diving experience after doing this with a power rack? i want to try this badly because if it works, i would save over $400 on a flaming river + a headache making a new shaft for it!
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i keep throwing belts or shredding the belts. and i keep trying different length belts, i am having a hard time finding a 50.5k6. If that doesnt solve the problem ill prob just make a manual tensioner.
Belt size you need if you haven;t relocated your alternator, and only removed the power steering:
Stock - 5060525 {6PK1335} (52.5", 6 rib belt)
ASP/SLP 25% Underdrive - 5060510 {6PK1296} (51", 6 rib belt)
Stock - 5060525 {6PK1335} (52.5", 6 rib belt)
ASP/SLP 25% Underdrive - 5060510 {6PK1296} (51", 6 rib belt)
NAPA 25-060551.......that's the # i was given by a member on here who had the alt mounted low driver side. i do not know if he has an underdrive pulley or not though.
Matt...are those #'s with the alt in the lower drivers side? and is that with or without that pulley between the alt & w/p?
thanks!
Matt...are those #'s with the alt in the lower drivers side? and is that with or without that pulley between the alt & w/p?
thanks!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
I ran mine using two tensioner ribbed pulleys, one on the tensioner and the other on the alternator idler pulley, you just reroute the belt without using the power steering pump. All the contact points are close and the belt doesn't even come close to coming off.
You'll have to use a thin washer to space the ribbed pulley on the alternator idler bracket to get it lined up perfect.
You'll have to use a thin washer to space the ribbed pulley on the alternator idler bracket to get it lined up perfect.
NAPA 25-060551.......that's the # i was given by a member on here who had the alt mounted low driver side. i do not know if he has an underdrive pulley or not though.
Matt...are those #'s with the alt in the lower drivers side? and is that with or without that pulley between the alt & w/p?
thanks!
Matt...are those #'s with the alt in the lower drivers side? and is that with or without that pulley between the alt & w/p?
thanks!
It sounds like you guys are making this harder than it really is. Just take the power steering **** off, remove the alternator tensioner, remove the one bolt out of the alternator if the belt hits it (some do, some don't depending on your crank pulley), if you're an auto, the clip holding the trans lines needs to be removed, and get the new belt and throw it on. Mine looks like this, except now I have a SLP underdrive pulley. No extra tensioners and all that bullshit:
thanks for the help and info Matt but with people saying they've thrown the belt with that routing, i'm going to keep the alt tensioner pulley and route like this...
Last edited by PRAY HRD; Oct 28, 2007 at 08:58 AM.
That would work Dave. I am not seeing any belt throwing issues, but maybe because of the SLP pulley having the higher walls, built specifically for that. I would try a belt with about an inch to inch & a half longer to fit better with that alternator tensioner still on there. I am going to be throwing an electric water pump on mine with the BMR bracket so I am getting rid of all of that tensioner on top and running only from the crank to the alternator with about a 30" belt.
P.S. You still driving a truck? I am managing my own 500,000 sq ft warehouse out in Romeoville for DSC - Kimberly Clark. I didn't know if you would be out that way or not.
P.S. You still driving a truck? I am managing my own 500,000 sq ft warehouse out in Romeoville for DSC - Kimberly Clark. I didn't know if you would be out that way or not.
yea, for a while still at least. my wife and i are trying to buy a bar where i live in the next couple weeks and after it's up and running, i will be able to retire the driving duties and over the road crap and work on that if all goes well! (even though it's all local to chicago it's still otr to me because i live 2 1/4 hrs south of work and rent a room from family during the week only getting home to my wife and kids every other weekend
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