Grinding Calipers 101
09-19-2007, 05:41 PM
#41
what rims are you running on the street? my budnicks had a center cap that allowed the full 2.75" studs to stay allthe way inside. eitherway, you can use any stock wheels, but you will have to find some open ended lug nuts to fit them now available at any auto parts store and you'll have to lose any lug caps if you had them. stock wheels with long wheel studs looka bad *** in my opinion. very stealthy, but still will raise an eyebrow here and there.
09-19-2007, 06:59 PM
#42
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well i plan to run 5/16 spacer behind the prostars. my car is a 89 Irocz with 00 trans am rear end so i need to grind the calipers. I'm running my stock Irocz wheels on the street. stock lugnuts are open ended but have plastic black covers that cover the lug nuts so it looks nice and clean.
with that spacer i probly need atleast another 1/4 inch length of stud. depends on how far the shank lug nuts will go inside the rim to the stock studs
if i need studs then i'll get em and have them stick out, i guess thats no problem
with that spacer i probly need atleast another 1/4 inch length of stud. depends on how far the shank lug nuts will go inside the rim to the stock studs
if i need studs then i'll get em and have them stick out, i guess thats no problem
09-20-2007, 05:16 AM
#43
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Just did this to my friends car, tonight. One of the front skinny prostars was older and needed no grinding with a 5/16" spacer. The brand new skinny needed a tiny bit of grinding even with a 5/16" spacer on the front.
Now the backs, we used 15x8 prostars with 5.5 BS and had to grind alot to get them to fit without rubbing. It takes alot of time and patience but wow it really makes a regular Camaro look like a badass drag car with Mt drag radials and slicks up front. One of the best mods I could get him to do. He doesn't want to mess with any internals but is getting gears within a couple of days. Hell be happy.
good thread
Wes
Now the backs, we used 15x8 prostars with 5.5 BS and had to grind alot to get them to fit without rubbing. It takes alot of time and patience but wow it really makes a regular Camaro look like a badass drag car with Mt drag radials and slicks up front. One of the best mods I could get him to do. He doesn't want to mess with any internals but is getting gears within a couple of days. Hell be happy.
good thread
Wes
09-20-2007, 06:33 AM
#44
the lug nut needs to fit flush with the outside of the nut. atleast. track officials want to see the stud stick out past the nut the same length as the diamter of the stud. but flush is fine. just dont think your stock studs will EVER be ok with drag lites or pro stars. no way. many people have tried it and the rim will bust the stock studs and you'l be lucky if you dont get into an accident when one of your wheels goes flying off the car.
09-22-2007, 08:22 PM
#45
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Finally got the wheels mounted. Finished my caliper grinding... Indeed...you do have to take alot off with the prostars...atleast i had to and i even used 5/16 inch spacers. When you think your done grinding...keep goin 
fit is good so far. tucks in ok. i wish i didnt have to use the spacer but the car looks good still i think. still gotta add the ARP longer wheel studs. Then that should be done with.
fit is good so far. tucks in ok. i wish i didnt have to use the spacer but the car looks good still i think. still gotta add the ARP longer wheel studs. Then that should be done with.
10-24-2007, 10:32 AM
#48
I first ground down bills camaro calipers to fit my drag lite's thinking they'd be the same but the prostars needed ALOT more grinding to fit then the draglite's. a TON actually. either wheels really need longe wheel studs to use and be safe. too many poeple have broken wheel studs trying to use prostars and draglites w/o longer studs. just do it. its only like $15 ea. wheel for the studs. cant really remember at all the prices, but even if its $25 a wheel, you cant justify sacrificing your safety to save a few bucks (and the safety of the other guy on the track, or roads)
either wheels really need longe wheel studs to use and be safe. too many poeple have broken wheel studs trying to use prostars and draglites w/o longer studs. just do it. its only like $15 ea. wheel for the studs. cant really remember at all the prices, but even if its $25 a wheel, you cant justify sacrificing your safety to save a few bucks (and the safety of the other guy on the track, or roads)
11-06-2007, 11:58 AM
#49
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I have noticed in a few other write ups on the prostar that longer wheel studs are highly recommended, the only problem is with the lug nut covers. They wont go on with the longer stud. I was grinding my calipers for the prostars and I f*cking stripped one of my moser wheel studs when I was test fitting the rims, so I am going to the longer ARP ones.
11-06-2007, 04:26 PM
#50
your supposed to use open ended lug nuts to be track legal. cause they want to see the stud extend past the nut completely. now if you wanted to use closed ended lugs for your stock type wheels, then you could mount up your prostars, and cut off the lug somewhere between the end of hte lug nut and the end of hte stud. that might allow you enough room to use the closed ended lug nuts. or just drill a hole in your lug covers for the stud to protrude out of it. paint the stud black and it will be mostly invisible. mostly. I have seen long wheel lug studs too, the new GXP's use some really deep closed ended chrome lug nuts that could work if you want chrome lug nuts? lots of idea's depending on what your trying to accomplish.
11-15-2007, 04:37 PM
#52
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Part number for the studs? Front and rear.
I'm running 15x3.5 in the front and 15x10 in the rear. It is on an LT1, is there a load of differnce between the 2 as far as grinding/spacers/studs/etc? I know the LT1 calipers are smaller on all 4 corners, but by how much?
I'm running 15x3.5 in the front and 15x10 in the rear. It is on an LT1, is there a load of differnce between the 2 as far as grinding/spacers/studs/etc? I know the LT1 calipers are smaller on all 4 corners, but by how much?
Last edited by TheBiz; 11-15-2007 at 04:59 PM.
11-15-2007, 04:54 PM
#53
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It is always cheaper to buy bogarts or calipers than it is to grind the factory, chance a problem and watch all your work in your car go to nothing but scrap.
11-15-2007, 07:06 PM
#54
dont konw part #s. but you want 12mmx 1.5 x either 2.75" or 3.25" long.
there is a HUGE difference front AND rear in how much needs to be ground between LT1 and LS1 brakes. LT1 rear brakes dont need that much grinding really esp. if you use a spacer. the fronts dont need any with a 5/16" spacer. the LS1 stuff needs spacers and tons of grinding. if you can afford it, get bogarts. if not, grind away, but be careful and take your time and keep test fitting, grinding, test fitting, grinding.
11-15-2007, 08:45 PM
#55
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dont konw part #s. but you want 12mmx 1.5 x either 2.75" or 3.25" long.
there is a HUGE difference front AND rear in how much needs to be ground between LT1 and LS1 brakes. LT1 rear brakes dont need that much grinding really esp. if you use a spacer. the fronts dont need any with a 5/16" spacer. the LS1 stuff needs spacers and tons of grinding. if you can afford it, get bogarts. if not, grind away, but be careful and take your time and keep test fitting, grinding, test fitting, grinding.
there is a HUGE difference front AND rear in how much needs to be ground between LT1 and LS1 brakes. LT1 rear brakes dont need that much grinding really esp. if you use a spacer. the fronts dont need any with a 5/16" spacer. the LS1 stuff needs spacers and tons of grinding. if you can afford it, get bogarts. if not, grind away, but be careful and take your time and keep test fitting, grinding, test fitting, grinding.
11-16-2007, 03:49 AM
#56
