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So how do I get this thing to hook?

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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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Default So how do I get this thing to hook?

1993 Firehawk ~390rwhp H/C auto with a Yank SS4000. 3.73 gears.
(Click sig for complete mods list)
Looking for suggestions to get her to launch better.
I've been pulling 1.70s. I should be able to do much better with this setup.
The car runs low 12s, I think I should be able to run high 11s.

Running on Prostars with 275/50-15 MT ETDRs out back and skinnies up front.
I typically run them at 18psi. I don't think going any lower will help.

I have Spohn drag rear swaybar and LCAs.
I have a Spohn torque arm (adjustable) set to -1.5*.
Should I change that? What range should I be trying?

I have KYB/AGX 8 position shocks and stock springs.
I usually set the fronts to 8 (soft) and remove the front swaybar.
If I set the rears to 2 (semi-firm), I can hook up.
If I set the rears to 1 or 0 (firm), I spin off the line.

The car is stock ride height, should I use LCA relocation brackets, or leave it alone?

Any other suggestions are welcome.

Last edited by James Montigny; Jul 7, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
1993 Firehawk ~390rwhp H/C auto with a Yank SS4000. 3.73 gears.
(Click sig for complete mods list)
Looking for suggestions to get her to launch better.
I've been pulling 1.70s. I should be able to do much better with this setup.
The car runs low 12s, I think I should be able to run high 11s.

Running on Prostars with 275/40-15 MT ETDRs out back and skinnies up front.
I typically run them at 18psi. I don't think going any lower will help.

I have Spohn drag rear swaybar and LCAs.
I have a Spohn torque arm (adjustable) set to -1.5*.
Should I change that? What range should I be trying?

I have KYB/AGX 8 position shocks and stock springs.
I usually set the fronts to 8 (soft) and remove the front swaybar.
If I set the rears to 2 (semi-firm), I can hook up.
If I set the rears to 1 or 0 (firm), I spin off the line.

The car is stock ride height, should I use LCA relocation brackets, or leave it alone?

Any other suggestions are welcome.
I would assume you mean 275/50/15s

-2* pinion angle
and I would say that relocation brackets would be a benefit.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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IMO at that power level you shouldnt spin coming off the footbrake on even the 26 inch mt radials. with a 4000 stall and 3.73 you should easily go 1.60 minimum. only way to figure it out is get vid. i am a big fan of relocation brackerts.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Go more pinion angle until you feel vibration then back it off a little!! Relocation brackets also! My pinion angle is -5 with no vibration
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by matthewjosh
Go more pinion angle until you feel vibration then back it off a little!! Relocation brackets also! My pinion angle is -5 with no vibration


Get relocation brackets, then take it from there.....
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 06:31 AM
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Relocation brackets on the rear, set of Hal's on the front.



Got frame connectors? Are you "flashing" the converter?


David
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 08:14 AM
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Sounds like everyone likes the relo brackets, I'll have em welded in.

Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
IMO at that power level you shouldnt spin coming off the footbrake on even the 26 inch mt radials. with a 4000 stall and 3.73 you should easily go 1.60 minimum. only way to figure it out is get vid. i am a big fan of relocation brackerts.
I'll have someone take one next time I am out.
Like I said, I can dead hook if I soften the rear; but when I firm it up, I spin.

Here's a vid from earlier this year when I had my 3200 stall.
I was hooking pretty good with the rear softened 2 notches from the firmest setting. (8-position shocks)
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Shootout07.flv


Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Relocation brackets on the rear, set of Hal's on the front.

Got frame connectors? Are you "flashing" the converter?
No subframes on my car at the moment, I was looking at them.
It is worth adding the extra weight?

Yes, launching off the footbrake and giving it a little throttle to take the slack out.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Set of subframes, -2.5 pinion angle...and try to flash that converter.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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subframe connectors have nothing to do with traction.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
subframe connectors have nothing to do with traction.

I have always been under that assumption as well. They would provide even less weight transfer and may hurt traction.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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set the rears as hard as possible without spinning
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KCFormula
I have always been under that assumption as well. They would provide even less weight transfer and may hurt traction.
its a chassis item, not a suspension item
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Set pinion angle at just under 3 degrees..ok for street and strip.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:35 AM
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So a stiffer chassis will not help traction? Hmmm, I already know the answer.

ACTUALLY, pinion angle is NOT a function of traction, think about it, how could it be?

http://buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm


Carry on.


David
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:10 AM
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that article is not 100% correct..i had mine done at a race car fabrication shop that does all types of race cars and the torque arm angle was an important part of the traction set up..believe what you wish..my car hooks with a 1.60 60' with 3.23s and a 3,600.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
So a stiffer chassis will not help traction? Hmmm, I already know the answer.


David
i stiffer chasis will help traction but is not the issue when a car with 390 rwhp and 3.73 gears is spinning off the footbrake. hell, lets put a 25.2 cage in there and see if he puts it on the bumper with his current setup.....its obiously a suspension issue as there is no reason he is blowing the tires away on 275 m/t radials coming off the footbrake.

come on fellas, this aint my first rodeo and the goal is not to be an internet hardass. the point is to plant the tire has hard and evenly as possible. well, atleast that is what i do with my 1.3 60' 3600 lbs radial tire car....

Last edited by gator's 99TA; Jul 9, 2007 at 07:24 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by omcar
that article is not 100% correct..i had mine done at a race car fabrication shop that does all types of race cars and the torque arm angle was an important part of the traction set up..believe what you wish..my car hooks with a 1.60 60' with 3.23s and a 3,600.

You are correct the TORQUE ARM angle, NOT the pinion angle those are two very different things. On a 3rd and 4th gen F Body when you change pinion angle you change no other angle. The pumpkin simply rotates or pivots on its mounting points.

On "4 bar" cars like Mustangs, Chevelles etc. to change pinion angle you HAVE to change the instant center to change pinion angle. That is where traction is affected(in those cars).

Pinion angle on OUR cars all you are trying to achieve is correct u joint angle under hard acceleration, if you have all Heim ended rear suspension(like I do) you require almost NO pinion angle(zero) because nothing in the rear moves or rotates in the rear under accel. With stock or Poly bushings you need more because the "flex" or move under accel when the rear roatates upward on accel.


That is just the way I understand it, there are a MILLION ways to slice that pie.


David
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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The way I see pinion angle is this Its angled down so that when you squat the car it will rotate level under hard accelration! I don't know just my input
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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Fatboy is correct
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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I was at full weight with 26x10.5-16s and dumping at 5500 and didn't have a problem spinning on ETs with 390 to the tires. My best at that weight was a 1.62 short time but it went 11.80s with 4.33 gears. I'm surprised you are spinning.

In the burnout box very long?
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