So how do I get this thing to hook?
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Looking for suggestions to get her to launch better.
I've been pulling 1.70s. I should be able to do much better with this setup.
The car runs low 12s, I think I should be able to run high 11s.
Running on Prostars with 275/50-15 MT ETDRs out back and skinnies up front.
I typically run them at 18psi. I don't think going any lower will help.
I have Spohn drag rear swaybar and LCAs.
I have a Spohn torque arm (adjustable) set to -1.5*.
Should I change that? What range should I be trying?
I have KYB/AGX 8 position shocks and stock springs.
I usually set the fronts to 8 (soft) and remove the front swaybar.
If I set the rears to 2 (semi-firm), I can hook up.
If I set the rears to 1 or 0 (firm), I spin off the line.
The car is stock ride height, should I use LCA relocation brackets, or leave it alone?
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Last edited by James Montigny; Jul 7, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
(Click sig for complete mods list)
Looking for suggestions to get her to launch better.
I've been pulling 1.70s. I should be able to do much better with this setup.
The car runs low 12s, I think I should be able to run high 11s.
Running on Prostars with 275/40-15 MT ETDRs out back and skinnies up front.
I typically run them at 18psi. I don't think going any lower will help.
I have Spohn drag rear swaybar and LCAs.
I have a Spohn torque arm (adjustable) set to -1.5*.
Should I change that? What range should I be trying?
I have KYB/AGX 8 position shocks and stock springs.
I usually set the fronts to 8 (soft) and remove the front swaybar.
If I set the rears to 2 (semi-firm), I can hook up.
If I set the rears to 1 or 0 (firm), I spin off the line.
The car is stock ride height, should I use LCA relocation brackets, or leave it alone?
Any other suggestions are welcome.
-2* pinion angle
and I would say that relocation brackets would be a benefit.

Get relocation brackets, then take it from there.....
Like I said, I can dead hook if I soften the rear; but when I firm it up, I spin.
Here's a vid from earlier this year when I had my 3200 stall.
I was hooking pretty good with the rear softened 2 notches from the firmest setting. (8-position shocks)
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Shootout07.flv
Got frame connectors? Are you "flashing" the converter?
It is worth adding the extra weight?
Yes, launching off the footbrake and giving it a little throttle to take the slack out.
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I have always been under that assumption as well. They would provide even less weight transfer and may hurt traction.
ACTUALLY, pinion angle is NOT a function of traction, think about it, how could it be?
http://buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm
Carry on.
David
David
come on fellas, this aint my first rodeo and the goal is not to be an internet hardass. the point is to plant the tire has hard and evenly as possible. well, atleast that is what i do with my 1.3 60' 3600 lbs radial tire car....
Last edited by gator's 99TA; Jul 9, 2007 at 07:24 AM.
You are correct the TORQUE ARM angle, NOT the pinion angle those are two very different things. On a 3rd and 4th gen F Body when you change pinion angle you change no other angle. The pumpkin simply rotates or pivots on its mounting points.
On "4 bar" cars like Mustangs, Chevelles etc. to change pinion angle you HAVE to change the instant center to change pinion angle. That is where traction is affected(in those cars).
Pinion angle on OUR cars all you are trying to achieve is correct u joint angle under hard acceleration, if you have all Heim ended rear suspension(like I do) you require almost NO pinion angle(zero) because nothing in the rear moves or rotates in the rear under accel. With stock or Poly bushings you need more because the "flex" or move under accel when the rear roatates upward on accel.
That is just the way I understand it, there are a MILLION ways to slice that pie.
David
In the burnout box very long?



