BMR Drag Bar - How Do You Preload It
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,060
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From: Canton, GA
BMR Drag Bar - How Do You Preload It Installed the very beefy BMR drag bar last night. Basically, I just bolted it up. I know the end links are adjustable, so what kind of adjustments do you make?
I assume you go to the track and do trial and error, but from there, what and how is preloading done? And how do you make adjustments after racing?
I assume you go to the track and do trial and error, but from there, what and how is preloading done? And how do you make adjustments after racing?
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Miami
TTT. Old post, I know, but I'm going through the same issues.
I've been driving around on the setup for a few months now (Moser 9", BMR Extreme Swaybar), but I'd like to fine tune it.
Right now, the ends of my BMR swaybar point to the 8 and 4 o'clock position angle relative to the ground. Should the swaybar ends be parallel to the ground (3 and 9 o'clock position)? I do know that the passenger side end link needs to be a bit longer than the driver's side.
I unbolted everything today and noticed that the length of the end links is pretty maxed out. Should I shorten them up?
Also, do BMR Extreme Swaybar users get constant fluttering noises coming from the end links where they attach to the angles welded to the rails? Is this due to my setup floating neutral right now without preload?
Any comments or advice appreciated.
I've been driving around on the setup for a few months now (Moser 9", BMR Extreme Swaybar), but I'd like to fine tune it.
Right now, the ends of my BMR swaybar point to the 8 and 4 o'clock position angle relative to the ground. Should the swaybar ends be parallel to the ground (3 and 9 o'clock position)? I do know that the passenger side end link needs to be a bit longer than the driver's side.
I unbolted everything today and noticed that the length of the end links is pretty maxed out. Should I shorten them up?
Also, do BMR Extreme Swaybar users get constant fluttering noises coming from the end links where they attach to the angles welded to the rails? Is this due to my setup floating neutral right now without preload?
Any comments or advice appreciated.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Miami
Should I shorten up the end links some (while keeping the passenger side longer than the driver's side)? Shortening them would gyrate the center portion of the sway bar towards the ground correct, and put the sway bar ends parallel to the ground?
I'm concerned that the end links were installed with their length already maxed out.
I'm concerned that the end links were installed with their length already maxed out.
I just set mine by going to the track. Biggest thing this bar seemed to control other than helping it come out nice and flat and even was the car goign left of right out of the hole.
If the car is pulling to the left let's say, then you have too much preload in the righthand side and vice versa.
If the car is pulling to the left let's say, then you have too much preload in the righthand side and vice versa.
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!LS1 11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by SilverGhost
I just set mine by going to the track. Biggest thing this bar seemed to control other than helping it come out nice and flat and even was the car goign left of right out of the hole.
If the car is pulling to the left let's say, then you have too much preload in the righthand side and vice versa.
If the car is pulling to the left let's say, then you have too much preload in the righthand side and vice versa.
It was launching pretty straight, but I may need to readjust things now.
Thanks for the tip.
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one more. since this bar does attatch to the housing with poly bushings and has some room to move where it connects to the body, make sure the bar is even. check that by measuring the space between the bar and the mounting points for the shocks on your 9", they should be the same. mine was a bit off and i loosed things up and moved the bar over and the car seemed to like it, but i did have to redo my preload settings after that, but was worth doing.
one more. since this bar does attatch to the housing with poly bushings and has some room to move where it connects to the body, make sure the bar is even. check that by measuring the space between the bar and the mounting points for the shocks on your 9", they should be the same. mine was a bit off and i loosed things up and moved the bar over and the car seemed to like it, but i did have to redo my preload settings after that, but was worth doing.
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From: Miami
Alright. I shortened the end links about 1/2" each (keeping the passenger side longer). The passenger door at its bottom rear corner measures 1/4" higher than the passenger side.
The rattling is about 85% gone. Maybe I'll shorten them up some more.
Thanks all.
The rattling is about 85% gone. Maybe I'll shorten them up some more.
Thanks all.
