Correct McLeod Bellhousing?
#22
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Originally Posted by badpewter-z
11.49 for ihra atleast and aftermarket clutch's
As for the stock bellhousing, it's nothing more than paper to the steel flinging apart at high RPM.
I'm a design engineer by trade. They made the bellhousing to fit a bunch of different applications because I'm guessing it isn't cheap to manufacture. That's just common sense.
The incorrect bolts, bolt hole out of alignment, and drilling and tapping of holes are all issues that can be addressed from basic manufacturing. There's no excuse for that.
The type of bolt head, clearances and overall shape of the housing are design constraints. The applications are what drive it.
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Originally Posted by SScam68
Don't let that be the limit though. I'm about 1/2 sec off of that but there's nothing trivial about dumping the clutch at 5000+ rpm. There is a lot of energy stored in that rotating assembly.
As for the stock bellhousing, it's nothing more than paper to the steel flinging apart at high RPM.
I'm a design engineer by trade. They made the bellhousing to fit a bunch of different applications because I'm guessing it isn't cheap to manufacture. That's just common sense.
The incorrect bolts, bolt hole out of alignment, and drilling and tapping of holes are all issues that can be addressed from basic manufacturing. There's no excuse for that.
The type of bolt head, clearances and overall shape of the housing are design constraints. The applications are what drive it.
As for the stock bellhousing, it's nothing more than paper to the steel flinging apart at high RPM.
I'm a design engineer by trade. They made the bellhousing to fit a bunch of different applications because I'm guessing it isn't cheap to manufacture. That's just common sense.
The incorrect bolts, bolt hole out of alignment, and drilling and tapping of holes are all issues that can be addressed from basic manufacturing. There's no excuse for that.
The type of bolt head, clearances and overall shape of the housing are design constraints. The applications are what drive it.
#24
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worst part of the mcloud housing is grinding the back of the damn oil pan..... if ya didn't have to do that it woudn't be too bad. but there's realyl no other way I guess.
The csr scattershield I put on top of my th400 is a pita to work around to get the tranny out, but it's better then having nothing, I've seen what can happen to a car if that blows up, and it's not pretty at all.
The csr scattershield I put on top of my th400 is a pita to work around to get the tranny out, but it's better then having nothing, I've seen what can happen to a car if that blows up, and it's not pretty at all.
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
worst part of the mcloud housing is grinding the back of the damn oil pan..... if ya didn't have to do that it woudn't be too bad. but there's realyl no other way I guess.
Has anyone else had this problem?
#29
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thats what i did mocked it all up with the motor on the hoist before i dropped it in . one piece of advice dont forget to make sure the starter fits BEOFRE you put everything back in the car
it needs the hole opened up more than it is along with a few other spots that need to be ground down .
it needs the hole opened up more than it is along with a few other spots that need to be ground down .
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Im also installing one now. A little grinding and cutting. Wrong bolts.
I also noticed the depth diffrence. Mine looks to be 3/16 short from my LS7 clutch. (I measured from the installed clutch fingers out to the trans flange then measured the face of TO bearing to face of trans mount.)But I pulled my TO bearing out and it looks like itll make it. but then Im thinking Ill suffer from low pedal engagement.
To shim or not to shim is the question.
Also Im installing an OZ700 at the same time.
How much shud the TO bearing contact the clutch fingers.
Thanks
Greg
I also noticed the depth diffrence. Mine looks to be 3/16 short from my LS7 clutch. (I measured from the installed clutch fingers out to the trans flange then measured the face of TO bearing to face of trans mount.)But I pulled my TO bearing out and it looks like itll make it. but then Im thinking Ill suffer from low pedal engagement.
To shim or not to shim is the question.
Also Im installing an OZ700 at the same time.
How much shud the TO bearing contact the clutch fingers.
Thanks
Greg
#31
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Originally Posted by Sartobuilt
To shim or not to shim is the question. Also Im installing an OZ700 at the same time. How much shud the TO bearing contact the clutch fingers.