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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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hey guys, i'm going to be taking my car to the track soon, I just need a few tips. I have a 95 Z28 with a 383 LT1. I have a TCI SSF 4L60E with a SSF 4000rpm stall t/c. How should I launch? Should I just do a brake stand and rev it up a little, the wheels overpower the brakes at 2000rpm. Should I just mash it? I'll list my mods, I've never had the car dynoed, but I'd like to know what you guys think it would run.

Engine:
383cid LT1 10.25:1 CR
block is bored .030 over
align honed and bored with torque plates
4 bolt splayed mains align honed and bored
forged eagle crank
forged CAT 6" rods
SRP forged -16cc dish pistons w/ valve reliefs
ATI SFI Super Damper
ARP head studs
Trick Flow heads 205cc P&P
Stock LT1 intake P&P
Canton Oil Pan
Canton fabbed valve covers
CSR water pump
GMPP heavy duty timing chain
CC306 cam
Morel lifters
CC push rods
CC 1.6 full roller narrow body rockers
Holley 58mm TB
SLP cold air intake
Pacesetter LTs, uncoated but rapped
Summit 3" H-pipe w/ dynomax perforated tube mufflers

Ignition:
MSD opti-spark
MSD 6AL
Taylor 8.8 OTVC wires
NGK FR-5 plugs

Fuel:
42lb SVOs
Aeromotive adjustable FPR
Walboro intank 255 pump
-8 supply line
stock return

Drivetrain
TCI SFI flexplate w/ ARP bolts
TCI Super Street Fighter
TCI 4000rpm SSF converter
B&M trans cooler
3.5" Moser driveshaft
Moser 9" rearend
Motive 3.73 gears
Moser 33 spline axles
Detriot Tru-track locker

Suspension:
Front LS1 spindle and brake swap
SLP strut tower brace
Spohn adjustable torque arm w/ front and rear driveshaft saftey loops
boxed rear LCAs
1 1/2" tubular steel panhard rod
SFCs

Wheels:
ZR1 relpica rims
fronts are 17x9.5 with Firetsone Wide oval tires 275/45/ZR17
rear are 17x11 with MT ET Streets DRs 315/35/R17
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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You have got to be kidding. You have never raced before? You have a bad *** car with all the goodies.

My suggestion: take it easy until you learn the car. Get some "seat time" before you step it up. Launch off footbrake at 2000rpm's. Ease into the throttle. Gradually build up your speed. Have someone watch the run/launch. Once you know it launches straight. Step it up gradually. Don't be in a hurry to bust it into the 10's.

You have about everything. -- Your wheels are 17 vice 15's is about the only thing I would change.

Take it easy at first. Practice, practice, practice. You have all the equipment.

David
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 06:54 AM
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i have raced before, when the car had just boltons, 13.4 @ 103 was my best time. I know I really need a trans brake to get the most out of it, but I was just curious about my stall rpm. Shouldn't my rpms be a little higher when I do a brake stand or are the brakes just not strong enough to let it get higher, and what does flashing the converter mean?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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From: Mcalester, Ok
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what "flashing" the convertor is, means when the car is at idle and you mat the accelerator the convertor will not "hit" or begin pumping fluid until a certain rpm which is where they get the term flashing the convertor i have found the best way to figure your car out is to play with the rpms try off of idle and go to the floor with it, next run take it to 1300 rpm and then smash it next 1500 and so on, compare your 60 foot times and see which works best. the stall is all based around the entire car, how much power it makes, weight, gearing, all play a factor in the stall of the convertor that is part of the problem with off the shelf convertors is for most cars they will work just fine but with a car like yours i would say having one built would be the way to go they will take every aspect of your car into consideration and build it according to that not always perfect the first time but it will be a whole lot closer than the off the shelf convertors. just my opinion hope i helped a little
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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thanks for the info guys
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Get some video when you go to the track!
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 02:27 PM
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The only thing I don't see are brakes. I hope you've thought about stopping!

Lets pretend you're going after your license ie stage it, I like the fllashing idea, blast the car out to the 1/8 mile roll out of it. If you don't know where the 1/8 miles is walk the track. Normally there is a little flag. Ask yourself, did the car hook? How did it feel? Flip lanes and do the same thing then look at the results.

The next run put a little motor into the converter, look at the numbers, flip lanes. Same amount of motor. In my opinion have fun, forget the reaction times put all the effort into learning the car. Once you figured the car out, hopefully the same night, go for the full pass if you want based on the information you gained.

You have a nice laundry list of what you've done to your car. Like SS Dave said, I can't believe you haven't run the car. But thanks for taking your racer to the strip not the street for testing - and good luck!!

Most track will just let you blast the hell out of the 1/8 mile. Once you start running full passes the track, for safety reasons - mainly your and the other racers, they will start looking to confirm you and your car are legal
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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thanks man, i did a ls1 spindle and brake swap, the ls1 brakes are alot better then the stock LT1 brakes. everyone says the same thing to me, why haven't you run it. I've been plagued with problems: D/S problems, 2 sets of bad 02s, opti ICM and coil all went at the same time, then the built trans went, then wires started arching, then header gasket started leaking, now everything is all set. I'm going to run it a few times then sell it.
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