Narrowed rear questions
Narrowed rear questions I just bought the following in the FS section last night:
Moser 9" housing, narrowed 5.5" per side. It has a back brace, Wolfe anti-roll
bar and adjustable pan-hard rod and LCA mounts.
I am looking to step up my game with another more serious car. LS1 F-body witha BIG Turbo of course. I have run a billinglesy FAB 9 that was narrowed 3" per side with offset LCA's.
What are my options with this rear being narrowed 5.5" on each side? Are offset LCA's still possible?
I dont mind doing a custom LCA setup under the rear of the car. It is gonna be 25.5 or 25.2 anyway. Still have to decide on that one. I plan to run some Drag Radial races and dont want to cut my self out of the fun with a custome rear LCA setup if that is what I have to do.
Any insight is appreciated.
Moser 9" housing, narrowed 5.5" per side. It has a back brace, Wolfe anti-roll
bar and adjustable pan-hard rod and LCA mounts.
I am looking to step up my game with another more serious car. LS1 F-body witha BIG Turbo of course. I have run a billinglesy FAB 9 that was narrowed 3" per side with offset LCA's.
What are my options with this rear being narrowed 5.5" on each side? Are offset LCA's still possible?
I dont mind doing a custom LCA setup under the rear of the car. It is gonna be 25.5 or 25.2 anyway. Still have to decide on that one. I plan to run some Drag Radial races and dont want to cut my self out of the fun with a custome rear LCA setup if that is what I have to do.
Any insight is appreciated.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
mount points have been moved on the rear if its 5.5" per side (typically not legal for any DR class I've seen). Mine was narrowed 3 3/4" per side and its as narrow as moser could go leaving stock mount points.
Hummm.
NMCA LSX Drag Radial States:
"Stock type suspensions, ladder bars and non-OEM 4-links permitted"
My intentions with the car were true street style events and some of the outlaw style DR radial events. I will have to check into the interpretation of the "Stock type suspensions" with in the rules of several DR classes.
NMCA LSX Drag Radial States:
"Stock type suspensions, ladder bars and non-OEM 4-links permitted"
My intentions with the car were true street style events and some of the outlaw style DR radial events. I will have to check into the interpretation of the "Stock type suspensions" with in the rules of several DR classes.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Originally Posted by Josh @ KYTP
Hummm.
NMCA LSX Drag Radial States:
"Stock type suspensions, ladder bars and non-OEM 4-links permitted"
My intentions with the car were true street style events and some of the outlaw style DR radial events. I will have to check into the interpretation of the "Stock type suspensions" with in the rules of several DR classes.
NMCA LSX Drag Radial States:
"Stock type suspensions, ladder bars and non-OEM 4-links permitted"
My intentions with the car were true street style events and some of the outlaw style DR radial events. I will have to check into the interpretation of the "Stock type suspensions" with in the rules of several DR classes.
Look at ORSCA (typical of most DR class rules I've looked at)
Rear Chassis/Suspension
Stock suspension only. Bolt on traction devices only. No ladder bars. No aftermarket 4-links. Coil over shocks allowed. Welded anti-roll devices allowed. Small tubes only. Original frame rails, front & rear, in stock location required. Suspension components must be attached to frame rails in factory manner.
Stock suspension only. Bolt on traction devices only. No ladder bars. No aftermarket 4-links. Coil over shocks allowed. Welded anti-roll devices allowed. Small tubes only. Original frame rails, front & rear, in stock location required. Suspension components must be attached to frame rails in factory manner.
Good point. I love how there rules are so vauge. "Suspension components must be attached to frame rails in factory manner". The suspension will still be attached to the factory frame mounting point. The attachment point on the rear end is what has been changed. The suspension would still be factory style, with factory frame mounting points, but altered rear end mounting points.
At the end of the day it is the interpretation of the Tech officials at the events that make the call.
At any rate the car will not be built to compete in any one specific class. True street event are more common around here than DR classes. It is more of a new car to promote the shop than anything.
Thanks for the input FireBall.
At the end of the day it is the interpretation of the Tech officials at the events that make the call.
At any rate the car will not be built to compete in any one specific class. True street event are more common around here than DR classes. It is more of a new car to promote the shop than anything.
Thanks for the input FireBall.
I'm not sure how the rearend you purchased was modded but if I remember correctly wormboy and bigrick on here had their rearends cut some massive amount like yours and they were able to keep the stock style supsension. It looked pimp too with the massive amount of lip their Welds had.
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Fash00 bought Wormboy's original 12 bolt. I am 99% sure it was narrowed 5" on each side. I talked to 2 of the local chassis guys and they both said as long as the factory suspension mounting point on the unibody structure of the car was in the factory location and I was still using the factory LCA style suspension I would be fine. That is pretty much how I am gonna build the car. I dont have any desire to mess with the rear. If it fits a class when finished I will run it. If not oh well.
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Originally Posted by Josh @ KYTP
Just for the sake of argument.
What would be involved with adding 2" inches to each side of the housing and moving the LCA mounts back to the factory posistion?
What would be involved with adding 2" inches to each side of the housing and moving the LCA mounts back to the factory posistion?
You can narrow it that far but the inner lip of the wheel will rub the lca mount on the housing. Then you run into the tire rubbing on the control arm itself up front. I had to do all kinds of trick **** to Pacos car to get the tires under there.
Originally Posted by Josh @ KYTP
Fash00 bought Wormboy's original 12 bolt. I am 99% sure it was narrowed 5" on each side. I talked to 2 of the local chassis guys and they both said as long as the factory suspension mounting point on the unibody structure of the car was in the factory location and I was still using the factory LCA style suspension I would be fine. That is pretty much how I am gonna build the car. I dont have any desire to mess with the rear. If it fits a class when finished I will run it. If not oh well.
Well ****. At $550 it looked like a steal so I jumped on it. Now it looks like it is gonn abe a pain to make it work. We'll see. The car that it is going under is a easy year or more out. I have plenty of time to figure something out.
Originally Posted by MADMAN
You can narrow it that far but the inner lip of the wheel will rub the lca mount on the housing. Then you run into the tire rubbing on the control arm itself up front. I had to do all kinds of trick **** to Pacos car to get the tires under there.
Did you have to minitub Pacos car?
God I love when the search works. I dug up some of WormBoys threads and found some info on how he did the 5" narrowed rear with the stock style suspension.
His 12 bolt rear was narrowed 5in on each side. The lower control arm mounts were narrowed as well to keep the everything in stock location. The back spacing on the wheels where 3in. The inner pocket for the lower control arm is still in the stock location. He is running a much thinner lower control arm then most which allows him to run such a narrowed rear end without having moved the lower control arm mounts.
I belive FASH00 how owns that rear suspensin setup now told me at one time the rear control arms were 1" molly tube.
At any rate I am gonna figure out how to make it work.
His 12 bolt rear was narrowed 5in on each side. The lower control arm mounts were narrowed as well to keep the everything in stock location. The back spacing on the wheels where 3in. The inner pocket for the lower control arm is still in the stock location. He is running a much thinner lower control arm then most which allows him to run such a narrowed rear end without having moved the lower control arm mounts.
I belive FASH00 how owns that rear suspensin setup now told me at one time the rear control arms were 1" molly tube.
At any rate I am gonna figure out how to make it work.
I narrowed 3 per side with a 15x10 and 5 inches of BS, my wheel is VERY close to the LCA bolt.
Panhard rod will have to be cut and possibly lowered to work right. Because the mount has to be moved over.
David
Panhard rod will have to be cut and possibly lowered to work right. Because the mount has to be moved over.
David
The rear wheel setup will be 15x10 with a 3 inch backspace.
I love the big deep dish look. I have done my home work and it will work with the rear being 5.5 narrowed per side. It is as narrow as you can possibly go and use the factory body mounting points. I am gonna make it work.
I love the big deep dish look. I have done my home work and it will work with the rear being 5.5 narrowed per side. It is as narrow as you can possibly go and use the factory body mounting points. I am gonna make it work.
Well I am geting the aluminum LCA's and springds that were used on BigRicks car. The guy I bought it from rane it with Wolfe offset LCA'a and panhard rod with out any rubbing issues. He rana 29x10.5 tire and 15x10 wheels with the 3 inch backspacing. I am gonna stuff some MT DR's under there. I have big plans for the new car.
It works. Sounds like that was my old 9" Damn you gotta steal for that housing, it's stout. 5.5" is the absolute most you can go without moving the mounting points. It still has the factory mounting points from moser without being moved at all. The rear was originally purchased from Madman new in I think 1974.... but it was only narrowed 1.5". A year later I went another 4" to make it 5.5". Wormboys car I had done also and it was 5" Reason for that is he did not have wheel tubs. That was a bitch, but Josh got it to work with enough reasoning with the hammer and torch.
