Chassis tuning for 325 Drag Radials?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,354
Likes: 1,787
From: Chicago, IL
Chassis tuning for 325 Drag Radials? I'm wondering if any 325 drag radial users would pass along any advice? I have been hearing:
-Keep the tire psi above 14 pre burnout
-Run front shocks on the loose side
-Run rear shocks on middle settings
-Keep the tire psi above 14 pre burnout
-Run front shocks on the loose side
-Run rear shocks on middle settings
17-18 is where we try to stay around.
We run the rear shocks on the stiff side.
They like to be hit hard.... seem like the harder wh hit them out of the hole the better they work. I'm sure that only holds true to a certain point though.
The pic. in my sig. in on Hoosier drag radials.
We run the rear shocks on the stiff side.
They like to be hit hard.... seem like the harder wh hit them out of the hole the better they work. I'm sure that only holds true to a certain point though.
The pic. in my sig. in on Hoosier drag radials.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,354
Likes: 1,787
From: Chicago, IL
Thanks guys. How about folks complaining about wheel hop or tire shake once they get out a bit, what's happening there? I saw KP posted something like that but I have two friends who said they've experienced the same thing.
Havent had a problem with tire shake yet. I hit them hard and keep applying power as far as I can. On our twin turbo street car we leave at 8-9 lbs of boost and ramp the boost in to 20 by 300ft.
My problem is I have too much weight over the front and not enough over the rear me thinks, only way to combat that is with more weight transfer by loosening up the front end and giving it more travel. Or by taking weight off the front of course.
The harder I hit them the harder mine hooks, but the first 10 feet isnt the problem, with a very stiff front end when the car comes down instead of the front end bottoming out it just breaks the tires loose. At least thats what happening to me anyhow.
With the hot weather I havent spent a lot of time with them, I'm sure on a well prepped track they will work OK. I'm just trying to find a happy medium where I dont have to change any hardware to switch between regular slicks and the radials.
The harder I hit them the harder mine hooks, but the first 10 feet isnt the problem, with a very stiff front end when the car comes down instead of the front end bottoming out it just breaks the tires loose. At least thats what happening to me anyhow.
With the hot weather I havent spent a lot of time with them, I'm sure on a well prepped track they will work OK. I'm just trying to find a happy medium where I dont have to change any hardware to switch between regular slicks and the radials.
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Havent had a problem with tire shake yet. I hit them hard and keep applying power as far as I can. On our twin turbo street car we leave at 8-9 lbs of boost and ramp the boost in to 20 by 300ft.
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Verdad Gallardo I havent seen that KP. If I dont hit them hard enough(or I missread the starting line) they will blow off but I do agree loosening the front end up will help. I cant run ours as tight as i do with the slicks.
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Thanks guys. How about folks complaining about wheel hop or tire shake once they get out a bit, what's happening there? I saw KP posted something like that but I have two friends who said they've experienced the same thing.
I have tried lower pressures and that was the only time I have experenced tire shake. above 16lbs it hasnt happened to me.
KP unsettling is a nice way to put it. Knocking teeth loose is how I describe it.
And my rear was dead quiet until it shook the tires now it howls like a ****
I am not running a 'drag radial', but rather a radial slick.
I'm running a 30x10.5x15" radial slick (C07 compound) by Hoosier. Love the tire, no more wiggle on the top end from bias plys. I was launching on my stock bottom end combo off the footbrake @ 18psi in both tires going high 1.3x's on a 10.3x e/t car. I had QA1 F shocks all around, ran the fronts on 3 and the rears around 5-7, depending on the track. Last time out on the new 417ci I stood the car straight up before the tree, went a 1.29 dragging the bumper
Now with the new shocks and a-arms up front (Swapped to the QA1 R's), the wheelie bars, I am hoping to be in the low 1.2x's with all 4 tires on or close to the ground
I'm running a 30x10.5x15" radial slick (C07 compound) by Hoosier. Love the tire, no more wiggle on the top end from bias plys. I was launching on my stock bottom end combo off the footbrake @ 18psi in both tires going high 1.3x's on a 10.3x e/t car. I had QA1 F shocks all around, ran the fronts on 3 and the rears around 5-7, depending on the track. Last time out on the new 417ci I stood the car straight up before the tree, went a 1.29 dragging the bumper
Now with the new shocks and a-arms up front (Swapped to the QA1 R's), the wheelie bars, I am hoping to be in the low 1.2x's with all 4 tires on or close to the ground
Originally Posted by MADMAN
I havent seen that KP. If I dont hit them hard enough(or I missread the starting line) they will blow off but I do agree loosening the front end up will help. I cant run ours as tight as i do with the slicks.
Its funny because when I had 275 DRs on it last year it didnt do it as much, IMO the 325s could really use wider then a 10" wheel also. I may try the 315/60s but at 400.00 a pair that gets old pretty quick. A good track helps too
I don't know if you want to go that extreme to 10 in the rear... Test everything out see what works. I change my shock settings almost everytime I go racing depends on the conditions. On my 12 o'clock launch I was at 5 up front and 7 on left rear, 8 on right rear. When ETown hooks, believe me it was a ride off of all 4 tires on the bumper, hehehe. Still wish I had the damn picture, I'd pay good money to see a picture of my entire drivetrain/powertrain in the air from the front of the car.
I am using the old school Stealth TQ Arm that we remounted to the m6 xmember after making adjustments for the th350. I love this arm it has spherical rod ends on both sides making it very rigid. I also use stock springs in rear and the QA1's up front. We will be resetting the ride height and alignment over the course of the next few weeks.
I am using the old school Stealth TQ Arm that we remounted to the m6 xmember after making adjustments for the th350. I love this arm it has spherical rod ends on both sides making it very rigid. I also use stock springs in rear and the QA1's up front. We will be resetting the ride height and alignment over the course of the next few weeks.
KP I do run the 325s on a 10" wheel but they are beadlocked. That might be the difference on set ups.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,354
Likes: 1,787
From: Chicago, IL
Matt is that on Dr's?
I've gone 1.35 with 28W's at 12psi cold, front shocks at 2 soft, and rears at 6 at US41.
I have fully adjustable rod end suspension in the car.
I've gone 1.35 with 28W's at 12psi cold, front shocks at 2 soft, and rears at 6 at US41.
I have fully adjustable rod end suspension in the car.
Originally Posted by MADMAN
KP I do run the 325s on a 10" wheel but they are beadlocked. That might be the difference on set ups.
Brian i have gotten mixed reviews on running beadlocks with Radials....
Some are saying the sidewall doesnt flex enough, and by adding beadlocks it stiffens the sidewalls even more.....
Any input???
I was about to send mine out......
Kyle
Originally Posted by kp
The harder I hit them the harder mine hooks, but the first 10 feet isnt the problem, with a very stiff front end when the car comes down instead of the front end bottoming out it just breaks the tires loose. At least thats what happening to me anyhow.
i have also experience bad wheel hop 10-15 feet into the run. get that nice nasty shake/hop marks left on teh track surface. it knocked off my rear view mirror! lol. made my rear noisey as well. teh hop quit when i went down to 15-16 psi. 18-19 psi seemed perfect for me. i am also on the 15x10 and 325 combo.