Need help getting my 60' down
Need help getting my 60' down I need some help getting my 60' down. The best 60' I have cut on my set-up is 1.80 on MT DR's with 3.73s and an SS3600. Weight of the car with me in it was 3820. The car doesn't seem to spin out of the hole and when I've asked friends they say it looks like it's dead hooking. Best time to date is 11.59 @ 120.
The suspension is mostly stock except for Bilstein HDs and an Edelbrock torque arm. I've tried adjusting where I launch at and found that it launches better when I leave at about 1500 and stand on it. Ideally, I would like to get the car to go 1.60s. Any help appreciated.
The suspension is mostly stock except for Bilstein HDs and an Edelbrock torque arm. I've tried adjusting where I launch at and found that it launches better when I leave at about 1500 and stand on it. Ideally, I would like to get the car to go 1.60s. Any help appreciated.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
What are the cam specs? Seems to be making power, might need a looser converter if the powerband is higher than your current converter is slipping to.
Derek
Derek
I have the same converter and gear ratio and I can tell you, if I cut a 1.8 60', it would OBVIOUS to anyone I was spinning. With that said, your friends are probably right, you weren't spinning .. not enough to account for that loss in the 60'. I agree with Villain, it seems the converter in too tight for your set-up. Your mph indicates you're making good HP but just aren't making the torque at the rpm you're leaving at (3600) to launch that thing.
I think a looser stall (best to go by the dyno sheet) or N20 would wake your car up nicely
I think a looser stall (best to go by the dyno sheet) or N20 would wake your car up nicely
Thanks guys.
Cam specs are .598/.598 244/244 114. The car is set-up more to be a street car than an all out drag car, but I'm thinking it should do better than 1.80. I was thinking the same thing with going to a looser stall, maybe a 4000 or 4200 to help it get out of the hole. I'm leaving on the foot brake so it's obviously not seeing 3600 when it flashes.
Cam specs are .598/.598 244/244 114. The car is set-up more to be a street car than an all out drag car, but I'm thinking it should do better than 1.80. I was thinking the same thing with going to a looser stall, maybe a 4000 or 4200 to help it get out of the hole. I'm leaving on the foot brake so it's obviously not seeing 3600 when it flashes.
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For the power it is making and the car's weight, it's not doing that bad. The weight is probably the biggest killer, it takes a TON of pwr to get 3800+ lbs moving.
I'd get the converter redone, and look into trying to get some weight out. If you can get the car to 3600, I am sure it's gonna wake right up.
The brackets and control arms are a good idea too, you'll eventually need them, and a set of m/t radials too if you aren't already on a tire like that.
I'd get the converter redone, and look into trying to get some weight out. If you can get the car to 3600, I am sure it's gonna wake right up.
The brackets and control arms are a good idea too, you'll eventually need them, and a set of m/t radials too if you aren't already on a tire like that.
Yeah I know the weight needs to go down some. Just added the 12 bolt and noticed that the weight went up a good bit. I've even lost some weight so, I guess I need to put the car on a diet too. The only problem with taking some of the weight out is that I don't want to do things that destroy the car. It's still very nice to ride in with the full interior, sound system, satellite radio, AC, and heat.
Justnoticed your sig, man, stop asking us and just take the car to ron and Mike. They will fix you right up... Not only with good numbers, but they make tehre cars run at the track more than anything.
There's alot that can be done to get the car lighter, k member, a arms, you can pull the sound deadening out from under the carpet/do a LW carpet, put a set of race seats in ( rollbar too, seeing as you're at the point of needing it) for the track get a set of drag wheels, lw hood, lots of stuff that won't mess with having all the pwr stuff and the a/c and whatnot.
I bet if you really start looking into it, there is 200 lbs you can remove and still have every power thing in the car. At least in track trim (wheels swapped, that type of thing)
I bet if you really start looking into it, there is 200 lbs you can remove and still have every power thing in the car. At least in track trim (wheels swapped, that type of thing)
8 Second Club
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 371
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From: Savannah, TN
Looser convertoer will help. weight is a problem ,the lcrs brackets dont work that great with the Edelbrock torque arm. it is shorter than stock and will make the car rise up and spin. A car i have been working on has the same t/a and we tried it both ways and it 60s better in the top hole (factory hole) . for the most part i have found that as long as the lcr's runs down hill front to back you are good to go but if your car is lower than stock they will help or if you have a long T/A like a wolf they will help a lot. lcrs will help being consistent but probly not help the best you will ever pull . a anti roll bar will help but not so much with that a high of short time. You said you wanted to keep stock look at the bmr anti roll it has bushings not solid mount so it is more quiet than some. Just my experance nothing more nothing else. Phillip Bridges
I agree w/ JL, the 1.8 60' isn't bad at that weight and in this weather. Get 400lbs outta that thing in better weather and you'll see better that a 1.6 60' and be knocking on the door of a 10 second pass w/ that mph (which will probably go to 124 with the weight loss and better weather).
Sounds like you have a nice set up there, the only thing I would change right now is the weight and take it from there. Nice work so far man!
Sounds like you have a nice set up there, the only thing I would change right now is the weight and take it from there. Nice work so far man!
Thanks guys. Yeah you can't have it both ways I guess. I don't know what's up with the weight, seems extremely heavy for a Formula. Last time I was at the track it weighed 3705 with me in it. Not sure where that extra 115lbs came from. 12 bolts don't weigh that much more do they?
I would take it to Mike and Ron, but for some reason every time I go up there I'm eating romen noodles for a couple weeks after and my wife won't talk to me.
Next on the list, re-stall and weight reduction. Think it's about time for the subs to go anyways. Getting too old for that stuff. Only problem is that's right where you want the weight. Guess the 12 bolt makes up for it.
Here's a pic of the car in race trim with the car launching. I am running MT DRs here.
I would take it to Mike and Ron, but for some reason every time I go up there I'm eating romen noodles for a couple weeks after and my wife won't talk to me.
Next on the list, re-stall and weight reduction. Think it's about time for the subs to go anyways. Getting too old for that stuff. Only problem is that's right where you want the weight. Guess the 12 bolt makes up for it.
Here's a pic of the car in race trim with the car launching. I am running MT DRs here.
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From: On the Bumper!
Yeah the weight is hurting in a big way. The TC is way too tight as previously stated. A 4000-4200 would probably be a good match for that cam. I bet you are making very little torque at 2500-3600 where that TC is coupling. I bet a good PT4200, Circle D 5C or a Vig 3600 would get ya outta the gate much quicker.
The 12 bolt is quite a bit heavier than a 10 bolt (70-80#s?)
Keep us posted and Good luck!
The 12 bolt is quite a bit heavier than a 10 bolt (70-80#s?)
Keep us posted and Good luck!