ping2day

iTrader: (5)

I just had my motor mods done for next year. I had a Cam, Headers, Fast 90/90, Roller Rockers, Tune done. They told me 405 i think on an A4 car, they were impressed.
I want to do some suspension mods to help with the launch with the additional power. I was running 7.9 last year in the 1/8th 1.7 60ft time. I'M thinking i'm going much faster next season. I know i need a torque arm/Lca's, Frame Connectors? What do you recommend i add and brands for these components. Thanks

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

If you're not gonna cage it, some subframe connectors would help I'm sure (especially if it's a t-top car). As far as suspension:
Rear drag shocks (Comp. Engineering, Strange, Afco, etc.)
Rear drag sway bar (BMR, Spohn, or Wolfe)
LCA relocation brackets
Panhard Bar
Torque Arm

That's all a good start there.

chrismorales75

Madman's Outlaw Tubular Adjustable Torque Arm, Madman's Tubular Offset Lower Control Arms, Madman's Tubular adjustable Panhard Rod, Shock Mounts, and Weld-in Anti-Squat Brackets.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...id=166&sid=826

Wolfe Race craft single anti roll bar.

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=261

UMI weld in 3 point sub frames

http://www.umiperformance.com/2003?category_id=129

Strange/QA1 single adjustable rear shock 150# spring.

Strange double adjustable front shock 275# spring. (PAGE 113)

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input. Those are great ideas that i had not thought of yet. Rear sway bar upgrade etc. What does LCA relocation do for you? Give you more room for tires? i run 15x11.5 Et Streets now. I would like to 6 point roll bar it but not sure this year it will fit the budget. It is not a T-top car so that helps with rigidity.

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

LCA relocation brackets fix the geometry problems with the Instant Center. the IC is the imaginary point where the planes of the torque arm and lca's meet. it should be somewhere around the firewall area, but as it's set up from the factory, it's either 100's of feet infront of the car, or not there at all if the car has saggy springs. If this angle issue is not corrected, you will experience wheelhop when big power is applied with a sticky tire.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

OK i will take a look at the link about he Insant Center. Gives me more to look at over the winter.

chrismorales75

The LCA relocation brackets add additions holes to mount the lower control arm in, which you will lower the LCA in the rear either 2 or 3 inches using the standard brackets most people make.


For more room for tires you buy an "offset" LCA which uses offset bushings to move the LCA closer to the inner side of the stock factory bracket..

You can't really guess where the IC point is. Or try to aim it for one certain part of the car.

Tire size, ride hight, weight, weight distribution, running an auto or manual, shock settings, spring rates will all effect where you need to have the IC point at, it's a trial and error thing period you'll just have to put the LCA in the different holes and see which one works best.

If you are not going with a roll bar yet, sub frames will help stiffen up the chassis. Some kits are bolt on so if you don't have access to a welder or the know how, you can bolt them on and have them welded on later if you choose to.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

That makes good sense. I will take a look at them. I know i need to strengthen everything out back to take the increase in Horspower/torque. What about the stock Drive shaft? I see carbon fiber and other materials used, must be pricey.

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

If you're making big power, get a steel driveshaft. I've seen MANY aluminum units literally blow to pieces or twist up from high-powered cars. The carbon fiber I haven't had any personal experience with, but the only reason they are out there is for getting some weight off the car, but honestly, I'd rather have the extra minimal weight on there from a steel piece than to chance a CF one..

Also, you can look into some weight reduction which is all layed out in the sticky at the top of this forum. Things like A/C, ABS, TCS, Seats, Airbags, etc.

chrismorales75

You can buy a nice c-moly one, get it with the 1350 solid u joints, that's if you're not on the stock rear end. The u joints last a few years and it isn't much to replace them every so many years.

Probably between 350-400 bucks for a nice c-moly shaft.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

C-moly sound like a good way to go. Yes i am still on the stock 10 incher for now. I have a Thunder racing backing plate, maybe that will help somewhat, maybe not. Its all a budget thing.

chrismorales75

You mean the thick aluminum rear cover? Those help some with gear deflection. You're still limited to what the small 7 5/8 ring gear will handle which isn't much compared to the after market rear ends.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the advice again. I just brought my car home today with the new cam/headers/rockers/pushrods/springs/tune/plugs. What a difference. Its like a new car. A lot meaner. They believe they put another 100 hp in the car. Dyno sheet says 410 at the rear thru my A4 which usually does not do the dyno numbers justice. I'm going to work on all of your suggestions over the next couple of months

wolfy

iTrader: (1)

agreed on the DS bieng a necessity...i broke mine on stock power (lid and cutouts) with some cheap *** ventus tires (275/40/17)

-cam