Mine was, I only spent a few hours working on it. Plus, I was able to place the proportioning valve and line lock where I wanted. The ls1 uses metric tubes though. For the front, 3/8 tubing works, and for the rear, between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve I used 1/4" tubing. You have to do this as stock it is already larger than the other lines. And you cant steal a fitting out of the anti-lock box b/c the opening for the rear brakes on the master cylinder uses a different thread from the front brake opening and all the jam nuts on the anti-lock box. I tried to do that, since it wouldnt work, I drilled the stock fitting for the rear brakes to fit a 1/4" tube. I found that doing 1.5 steps out of the 2 it takes to make a double flare will seal the line. Once you undo the stock ones, you'll understand.

 

I still have power but the ABS(30ish Pounds) is gone. They feel the same they will just lock up now

I bent and flared all my own lines

 

I have mostly the same setup as you but I am having a heck of a time building enough line pressure for the linelock to hold
maybe I should change the 8 year old pads

 

Would you guys recommend doing this on a street/strip car?? I'm tired of having to work around the ABS controller and the 4 channel rear I'm getting won't work with my ABS anyways...........

 

Sounds like you need to flip the line lock. If it is backwards you will have that problem. Mine worked fine.

 

i used a m/c that was for a 81' dodge d150 2wd truck. basicly the same one that strange sells, except mine was 36 bucks at oreilys

 

brandonppr, That is really clean and welll hidden.

 

I just came up on your post. I have some questions. I have a hurst line lock on the car. I removed the ABS block. There was 4 braided lines that were hooked to it plus 2 hard lines from the master cylinder. What do I do with the braided lines. I have Willwood 6 piston brakes all around and the braided are the line I upgraded to. Are those only for the ABS or what. I would like some ideas or pictures please.

 

i've got the SJM unit, just have to have time to intstall it.

Ellis, who did that single plain of yours? Thats the low-profile type I need

 

Not a single plain but a custom built stock intake

 

I will get some pic's of mine up when I get the car back from the chassis shop, I used the strange master from burkhart, no prop. valve, ran a single line to the line lock, down to a T fitting, one line off the t to the drivers side, the other line along the bottom of the radialtor support (so I can swap the K member without having to redo lines) to the other tire, and a single lien all the way to the back and a t fitting to go to each tire back there, running the line along the body so there's no lines on the rear.

 

Man, we've gotta talk

Id like one!

 

Good pictures guys.

THanks for the recommendations as well.

Obviously, our kits will be your easiest setup. If you prefer to build one yourself, nothing can replace the gratification that you may receive...that would be the primary reason to doing this in my opinion.

Purchasing the LL and wilwood valve alone not including any fittings, tubing, pipe bender, flaring tool etc will set you back a mininum of 82.00. The fittings aren't inexpensive and electrical pieces needed aren't either....let alone the tube bender and flaring tools you'll need. They will all add up rather quickly. Gas and time should be factored in as well.

If you only need the pre-formed lines, every fittings and wilwood valve...esentially everything you'd need besides the flaring tool and LL kit, the base is 139.99 which in my opinion is rather inexpensive and worth the investment. For 40.00 more you'd receive the entire LL kit with all electrical needs which include but not limited to...a master switch, control switch and remote LED. If you need the flaring tool, it is a 20.00 additional option.

If you are going to build your own setup, I'd highly advise the usage of an adjustable proportioning valve...the likelyhood of your brakes being biased well would be like winning the lottery. If any of you guys need seperate components, I can help try to help you out as well. The biondo style solenoid would be 39.88, the valve is 41.95...I can also cover any type of fittings/tubing as well.

Good luck guys

 

Thanks for the pics guys. I can't wait till I get mine done!