Last time I checked, there wasn't an 'official' trans blanket for the bellhousing of the Fbody T56? I know McLeod or someone makes a special housing, but I know its a PITA to put on.

Is there a blanket out there yet?

I really don't want my clutch in my legs.....

 

just get the bellhousing, i wouldnt trust a blanket if the clutch goes. i was thinking the same thing and ended up wit the bellhousing. plus the blankets arnt sfi approved for stick cars

 

Thats what I was afraid of...

Damn, now I gotta pull the trans again lol

 

Matt, I'm in the same boat. They don't make a SFI BH for my tranny. So I used 2 blankets and wrapped them around the BH for a band aid fix. -Mark

 

I was thinking about doing that Mark....I figure a blanket is better than nothing at all

If i remember right the SFI BH was over $700 or so...

 

The blanket will not be sufficient. They are made for auto's, to catch small pieces of metal, not large heavy pieces of clutch.

do not be fooled by the SFI rating, the blanket is designed and tested on auto trans applications, that is what this rating is for.

 

who sells the bellhousing again? I really don't wanna pull that trans lol

guess we'll find out

 

for the LS1? not sure. Mcleod? quicktime? I know there are a few for the LS1

Us LT1 guys have to convert clutches and all this bs to get one in our cars...lame..

 

Man I feel sorry for the guys with fast stick shift cars out there. I have done a few clutch swaps on cars with NHRA legal bellhousings and all of those extra bolts are a pain in the butt!!

I guess its safer than having a clutch part come through your leg though!

 

mcleaod is the only one and its not a direct fit for the ls1, check my sig

its a bitch but worth my feet

 

I put the McLeod housing in with my new motor out of the car. It's a pain in the arsh, but it's on there now.

Problems I had:

1. There was clearnance issues between the motorplate to flywheel. Had to grind down the motor plate so the flywheel didn't touch.

2. The holes didn't line up exactly right from bell to block and had to woller a couple out. Sounds hookey, but the problem was there.

3. No cut out to bleed the slave. Had to use a Snap-On remer bit to open that up.

4. Had to cut a section of the "other" started bevel out for header clearance on the left side.

5. Wrong bolts came with the housing. They give you standard thread. Buy allen headed bolts cause a regular headed bolt wont allow a socket to hit.

6. Had to get a custom shim for the slave since the housing is deeper than stock with the motor plate. Was 7/32s to be precise.

Luckily everything lines up right with the dowels. I was really getting concerned since I had to do all the above work.

Definetly mock everything up and check clearance!

 

ugh


do i really need feet? lol

Maybe I should just weld some thick stainless plates on the underside of my car lol

 

you shouldn't have to grind the motor plate if you grind the oil pan back so its flush with the motor. thats what i did on mine and another car we put on on. defeinetly get the allen heads too

 

Opps, forgot to mention I grinded that down too. Still had the issue. Called McLeod and they stated that you "might" have to grind the motor plate down. Flywheel was touching around the openning for the crank, top side, on the motor plate. Good thing I was observant on that.

All in all, I feel safer having it on there.

 

looks like I'll be getting one.

just warn the family for all of the cussing and swearing coming from the garage lol


I just bought a nice new dremel, will that get the job done? or am I going to have to get out my Dotco cutting wheel?